K5 starting questions

[Friar-Tuck]

 Thank You guys for jumping in,  I'd totally missed checking the air boot, float level and all.
    Excellent points on the signal strength and float level Serafin.
  Plugs:
The NGK plugs R is resistor so Br8 is resistor b8e is non resistor
  More than you ever want to know about plugs from the manufacturer
NGK USA 
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/didyouknow.asp?mode=nml

 Sparkplug 411
       http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411.asp

And my Good Brutha K-Wack,
  If you pull the flywheel,  use some valve lapping compound to lap the flywheel to the crank.
   It Only takes a few moments.
    Make sure to clean the crank with solvent or parts cleaner to remove all the paste.  Simply apply the compound to the snout and turn the flywheel a minute or two by hand back and forth and look for any high spots on the crank.
 
 Thanks again guys and sounds like you are at least making progress Coop, finding the boot with a possible crack is possibly catastrophic. The bag colored plug insulator would lead you to believe alls well, but that may not be a tell all.
    If I'm not mistaken the plug chop test and mixture ring is actually read at the bottom of the insulator. 
Not easy to see without a lighted magnifier or cutting the plug open.  Reading the electrode and strap is a science all its own.
 I'll look for an article
   Tuck\o/   

   Gordon Jennings 
http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

O.K.  last one...promise  Reading timing etc The stuff I'm not sure about......
http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/Readplugs.html

[Polar-Bus]

When I cant get my 5 to start, I just get CBX to kick it (in his Flip-Flops).  Fires every time, huh DoldGuy.   

Spray some PAM cooking spray on the bottom of those flip flops for some better kick lever grip...   

You guys crack me up...LOL

[tcoop474]

So I don't need to be using the br8eg plug I need a b8eg?

[jkindt]

US specs call for the non resistor plug, Canadian specs call for the resistor plug. No other parts differences. Can't see it making that big of a difference other than a little emitted efi noise suppression on the resistor plug.

[kwakman]

coop, do you mean youve been bumping it as you didnt have a kicker?

[kwakman]

when bumping, the engine tends to turn over faster than by boot leather, which, due to the higher signal strength means it will generally start with an air leak.(boot, main seals, cases etc). as the signal strength is lower when kicked, the air leak will make sufficient difference that she won't go by kicking.had this prob myself before i got into strokers on an addicted level.the cracked boot if admitting unmetered air would be enough to cause 'no ride today' frustration. however, I would advise, after sorting the boot issue, to do a pressure and vacuum test to make sure its not leaking anywhere else.as I mentioned 86 air boots are rare in good nick, and due to the mk1 rear suspenders, the 86 boot is a straight shot, and the 87 on arent, due to differing shock location as opposed to the mk2(87 on) uni trak system.if the liquid rubber suggestion is no good, I would consider asking jfab or larry to do you a new one in ally.hth, K.

[weymouth399]

Either will work, the R is for resistor, interference of peoples tv, radios.
I didn't think much of it till I over herd someone say that a non resister plug can cause interference with the ignition system of your own bike. So now I use a R plug just in case.

Bob W

[kwakman]

that explains why the mini moto fooks the telly up and the 5 doesn't then.everydays a school day! K.

[kwakman]

thinking about it, you could use a later boot but it would mean junking the airbox and running a K&N or simillar, which I wouldnt advise if you use it for anything other than road/sm use.you want the airbox for dirt.K.

[DoldGuy]

When I cant get my 5 to start, I just get CBX to kick it (in his Flip-Flops).  Fires every time, huh DoldGuy.   

Spray some PAM cooking spray on the bottom of those flip flops for some better kick lever grip...   

You guys crack me up...LOL

Polar,
Roost was not kidding, his race was coming up & I saw him kicking with all of his 130 lbs & he could not get it to light. I too was wearing flip flops & knew there was NO WAY I could start it, then CBX comes to the rescue in his Flippers!

[tcoop474]

Yes when I got the bike there was no kicker on it guy said he always pulled it off. I pulled it off till I got a kicker. Friday night was my first attempt with the kicker and it cranked and I rode it for a while then sat and sun I kicked it all day with no success

[kwakman]

if you kick it and it wont run, but will when you bump it, almost deffo the air leak causing it.but you dont want to run it like that anyway, just do more damage.cant remember who suggested this liquid rubber stuff, but it was in reference to a leaking air boot, and if I remember correctly it fixed the issue.hth, K.

[kwakman]

hows your compression? low cyl comp also has the same effect due to the differing cranking speeds.K.

[tcoop474]

Here's the verdict. I tried cranking it again last night with no luck so I decided it was time to actually do more then just look at the bike waiting on it to tell me what was wrong with itself. Rand compression test came back with 90 psi. I toilet the head off and it was pretty gummed up. Went to take exhaust off noticed gas running from around the exhaust and down the front of the motor. Took the cylinder off no scratches or scars on the sleeve but rings seized to piston. Motor is pretty gummed up so I'm going to clean it up real good new gaskets rings ect. The piston is a wiseco 86mm I think? What ever stock mm is ran the serial number its made for 88-up k5s mine is an 86 I'm sure its not a problem but there is a lot of play from side to side. Like from inside of piston it has a gap on each side to the crank. Can slide it a good bit from left to right.

[tcoop474]

O yea and I've decided to go ahead and take it to bare frame and go ahead and build it completely as originally planned when I got it.