KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!

[chris-mets]

Yep but I never use it

[Motorrad]

Yep but I never use it

Reason I ask is because there is a KILLER fuel mix app that I use on the go..  That would help ya out...

[crazyolbastard]

Dag Nabit...
  That buggar should have fallen out when you turned the engine over and shook it...
   Magnet didn't work...hmmmm...and your positive you saw it fall in....

   Tell you what Chris,  if you can ( or want ) to send the motor out here to me I'll find a way to get it sent back.
Wait 'till your piston gets there, box up everything you have for the engine and send it out.
      Don't need the carb or pipe, and you've already drained the oil.

   I don't want you to give up, and you've already spent so much time,energy and money I can't hardly stand to hear one more  gremlin jump in on the project...

         I have surgery scheduled for July 27 to have my right hip replaced so I have to ship it back to you in the next few weeks on account I won't be able to get around too well for a while after I get my new ball-joint...
  
  Think about it.  Send me a PM and I'll give you my home addy.  I definitely have the time.    I have a few more chainsaws I can sell for part money and return shipping.

  I'll be looking forward to your E-mail.
      Tuck\o/    

Now thats called "Paying it Back"...........Tuck You Are a Good Man!

I`m with you brother.

Tuck, You are a Good Man!

Nothing like helping out the youth of the nation.
 

[Friar-Tuck]

 Sheesh! You guys are killin' me

 I know if you guys had the time you would'a done the same thing,
AND
  Thanks to another Brotha' here I got the money to pay for the parts & send the engine Back. 
If it weren't for you guys it wouldn't have happened.    The saws I wanted to sell ended up needing parts.  The piston on the 066 had some scoring and the 041 needs a carb kit.    I couldn't in good conscience send them off to an e-bayer and have one not run and the other lose a piston.

    When my wife realized that it wasn't my engine I was working on she went into system overload. 
           We had just gotten a $575 bill from the spine guy to add to the prev $5k. 
   I ran that tab up on my suspension work (l-5 S-1)  and I still have to have both lower  ball joints replaced.
 Somehow it always works out.  ( It's Good to have Friends In "High Places"   )
   CM is pretty bummed that it's gonna take a few more days.   ( I swear the young man is doing A Buck Twenty-Five)
            However I couldn't order the parts 'till I was sure I had it covered, and I didn't want him to have to spend anymore since I told him I would take care of it if he sent the engine out.
   It all is working out and it's not me. 
  The parts are on the way and are paid for.        Twenty minutes for clean-up upon arrival and ten minutes to install.

 I like the Idea from Mo Rad about the foam, so 40 min to pack her up and she'll be on her way home.
    Bolt it in, hook up the fuel, fill the rads and start the warm-up break in.
   Tuck\o/

[chris-mets]

Tuck,

Who said I was bummed out?!!?!? haha I said take your time lol. And so when the engine arrives, I am good with not filling the fuel, hooking up the spark plug, putting oil in it, and hooking up the rear brake? I mean who needs brakes! :p...haha just messin with ya Tuck. Its great that all of you came along and helped me out a lot. I enjoy learning about this stuff and working with all this and hopefully I will get better at it someday. Thanks everyone.

[Friar-Tuck]

Here is the retaining clip and how to install it.
 This should  resolve your sticking throttle.
  Let me know if you need some pic's on installing the throttle cable to the slide valve.

 This little clip is slick, small and hard to see when you drop it... While I was taking these pic's it shot across the garage and i would have never thought I was gonna find it.  Small miracles happen every day!

This is the slot in the end of your throttle cable, the clip (When inserted through the slot in the brass adjuster)
 Locks the throttle cable sheath to the top of the carb.




And the slot the clip slides in to keep the whole mess together.




Insert the end of the cable into the adjuster, line up the slot in the end of the throttle cable. 
Insert the Clip insuring the flat side of the "D" fits into the slot in the end of the throttle cable.

[chris-mets]

Hey Tuck,

I have installed the throttle cable to the slide before but am new to this clip installation. Should only take me 5 mins to get on how to do it though lol. Did you receive all the parts yet? If so, is the engine shipped out? Thanks.

Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

  CM,
   I'm expecting the parts today or tomorrow, I'll let you know when I get them. You could be riding monday or tuesday.
     You will more than likely have to remove the carb to get the engine in, so I'll put it in a separate box. I'll send it off with your book  You can hook up the carb and put a zip-loc bag around it and wait for the rest of the engine.
  I'll send it off today.   

Here is the Slide and needle assembly,  I want to make sure you got it.
  The slide and needle 


Put the spring over the throttle cable




Hold the spring back and put the cable in the slide and move it over to the "small" side of the keyhole in the slide.



Drop in the retainer and see that it sits flat with the tab in the eye of the keyhole.



Release the spring and see that the spring holds the needle/ cable holder flat in the bottom of the slide.



Drop the slide in the carb slowly minding the needle needs to drop in the needle jet and the large notch in the slide lines up with the idle screw.  There is a small notch on the backside of the slide that keeps everything lined up as the slide moves up and down in the carb body.

[chris-mets]

Ok, now I fully understand. Thank you for taking all the pictures to guide me through. I will be looking for the carb and manual. Where did you end up putting the mystery washer? Ok, lets go through the whole process when I receiv everything back. Ok so take the engine, connect the chain and bolt it in. Connect the carb properly. Connect the spark plug cord and the clutch cable. Connect rear brake. Connect all the hoses and other stuff. Fill with oil. Fill with antifreeze. fill with gas. Put all fenders and seat on. Ready to go?

Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

That sounds about right,   Bolt the Engine in and fill the Tranny connect your rads and fill. ->  Ignition Wires

   Carb, There is a little notch in the top of the carb boot, line up the notch on the carb and tighten the clamp(s)  Make sure the throttle operates the slide properly  The little brass fitting on top of the carb will also adjust your throttle freeplay.    Check your clymer in the fuel section. 

   Spark Plug & Wire ->  Chain & Brakes  If the kill button malfunctions and you have to kill the engine put it in gear grab both brakes and let out the clutch...

 Fuel tank and seat -> Fenders   Then start your break-in.  I put a sticky  note in the section of the book.

 It should be pretty straight forward.  I'll get the parts on and ship her out as fast as I can.    I would like to see a vid of you whooping it up as bad as you would like to make one!!

     Oh yea...  The washers went on either side of the clutch basket.    See Fig.# 92022

http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KX60/CLUTCH
    Tuck\o/
 

[chris-mets]

Ok sounds great. If I had a video camera I would haha. Thanks everyone.

Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

Fig # 92308
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KX60/GENERATOR

 Woodruff Key for flywheel.   This tells the igntion when to fire and creates the energy for spark.
    The key lines everything up.  The pressure from the two tapered parts pressed together is what keeps the flywheel tight.

Key #2  Fig #92308 (you have to drag the image up and left to see the end of the crankshaft) same size as previous key.
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/2000/KX60/CRANKSHAFT~PISTON%28S%29

 This one is on the waterpump drive.  One end of the  waterpump drive shaft fits in the end of the crankshaft the other end is threaded to recieve the bolt side of the waterpump impeller.   They have to be lined up just right when the case half is installed or the ends of the pump and the crank will be damaged.   I filed the end of the crank and that will be ok.

The Keyed end of the waterpump was salvageable, however the chrome was wore off the end that passed through the seal in the waterpump housing and would have started leaking if it wasn't allready.   

  Computor probs Arghhh Back later

[Motorrad]

Ive never played with a Kx60.....   But there has been no mention of coolant bleeding.. etc...   just "Put coolant in and go"     even bikes that dont need the head bled... cant just Juice and go...

("Put coolant in and go"   im trying to read these instructions through chris's eyes)..

also.. do you know how to properly adjust the chain chris?  which way the master link goes?  etc....   these things will bite you if you dont do it right..

[Friar-Tuck]

Mo,
 The  coolant return is right off the top of the cyl.


 The instructions in the clymer for break in include filling the cooling system.
 (there are no provisions for bleeding the system I remember reading.)
 Fill to the bottom of the neck on rad, warm up and check level after the first heat cycle.

A small coolant overflow/catch tank would be great.  However like you said looking at this through the owners perspective, maybe we could start something like that in a follow-up.

  Everything a guy needs to know is  in there, but you have to actually read through the book.
I couldn't get my boys to even read through their Owners Manual! 

 I did send the book back along with the carb. (I was going to leave it on and then figured it would have to be removed to get the engine back in the frame.)
 Hoping CM would read through it.
  Tuck\o/ 
   

[Friar-Tuck]

If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all!

  I got the cover today in the mail!




I'll get get right after cleaning it up and pulling the old seals.
it's pretty nasty in person...



Plucked out the kickstart seal no probleamo..



Turned it over to pull the drain Bolt..WHAT    ARE YOU KIDDIN' ME !!

AARrgghh...


I don't know Who Has worse Luck CM or ME!

I'm soaking it in penetrating fluid right  now.. I am still waiting for the H2o pump shaft. 
 I'll try a few more ideas while waiting for the pump shaft.  (Which should be here tomorrow.7/15) 

If I can't get it to budge I'll clean the bolt head up and CM will have to pull the Pump cover to drain the coolant  until another sidecover can replace it. 
 Unfortunately a "New" one is $185.00 plus shipping. 

 I don't want to keep the Owner waiting any longer.   All were waiting for is the Water pumpshaft

  Tuck\o/