KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!

[Friar-Tuck]

Chris,
 You said your getting alot of white smoke with the larger pilot.
 If the bike ran better with the #35 go back down on the pilot and increase your main if you think the bike can handle it. If the clicking noise you are hearing is detonation the larger main should fix that.  You should have one size larger main in the last order that came a #230.
      If you continue to get alot of white smoke below 1/2 to 3/4 throttle you will start to see the dreaded oil spooge start to appear.     The larger main should give you more fuel from  1/2 to full throttle.
   
  Why do you think you need to adjust the timing?    The bike ran well before the meltdown, and I didn't change the port timing enough to warrant it.   By matching the ports, and cleaning up the casting flaws the flow will increase. 
   Raising and widening the exhaust will start the exhaust blowdown a bit earlier but I don't think enough that it would warrant a timing change.   
  You surely can try to go either way, but I think you will have to remove the flywheel to get to the screws that will allow you to move the stator plate.

   I'm glad the bike is finnally running better.  It may take a bit more tweaking but I'm sure you'll get it.
    Remember as the temp continues to drop you will have to increase your jet sizes as there is more oxygen in the air (per cubic foot of the atmosphere ).   
  So you will have to richen the mixture.   
 Take Care, and hang in there.
  T\o/

[chris-mets]

Hey Tuck,

I cant tell if it ran better or worse with the 35 but there certainly was much more smoke with the 37.5...
Should I go into the bike again tomorrow and run 37.5 with a 230 main?

I remember reading somewhere that if you move the stator up or down that it will give more of a kick with the powerband...THe bike use to have a crazy powerband in any gear even first. Now there is no powerband except in 6th at full throttle. Say if im wrong or not.

Also I remember my bikes always ran the same way in hot or cold weather. I think if I get it at one base where it runs perfect then it wont be so bad. Tell me if Im wrong again.

Let me know what I should do with the jets. 37.5 with 230?

THanks.
Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

Chris,
 The pilot jet is what the bike is idleing and running primarily up to about half throttle or so.
From around half throttle to full throttle is your main jet.
 The needle and clip adjustment will help with how well the bike makes the transition from Idle to full throttle, or  how cleanly the bike accellerates.
  What is not right, and what does your plug look like?   Does the bike start easily or is a buggar.
Go back through the fuel section of your clymer and there is a breakdown of what circuit in the carb is working or overlapping to the next circuit. 

 If you have a reason to believe you need to adjust the timing make small adjustments.  You can always start over at the stock setting.  This is just part of learning, it just takes time.

  Hang in there buddy.
    Tuck\o/

[chris-mets]

That made me understand more. I actually did notice a difference in starting the bike. With the 35 it started first kick everytime without the choke. Now with the 37.5 it starts with like 4 kicks and I want it back to 1 kick since it was just rebuilt...

Im going to do my homework now then Im going into the garage. I will look at the plug then try 35 with 230 main.

After understanding that the main does half to full throttle I think thats the problem instead of the timing.

Thanks
Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

 You may be right Chris,
  But You have to be methodical in going through the systems and like the other guys have stated , Only make one change at a time.  That's the only way you can Isolate the problem.   If you have enough Money to throw at a problem you can eventually fix or find it.  But being responsible with your cash on hand is something your parents will be watching.  It certainly will tell other people how responsible you are with what you have.
  The downside is it does take time...However the more you work with troubleshooting,
The quicker you can recognize symptoms or similar symptoms that lead to solutions.
  If manipulating the main doesn't get what you feel the engine should have in it.
Then you can move to the next area you feel isn't right.  If  you feel the timing needs to be checked there is a way to verify it's correct.   I hate to keep saying it... but have a look in the Clymer in the ignition section and and read through how to check it.
  Tuck\o/ 

[chris-mets]

Hey Tuck,

I put the 35 with 230 in the bike and im am very happy where it is at. There is still no powerband except 6th gear full throttle but its manageable. It still smokes but not near as much and it starts first kick again. Ill be sure to check how the spark plug looks tomorrow. I don't know what it is. What Im wondering is how did you know what spot to put the stator on when you rebuilt it? I had a picture of the exact lines where it was before it blew up. Did you put it to stock? ALso Im wondering if I took the flywheel cover off would oil pour out or does oil not go to that part of the engine?

THanks Tuck.

Chris

p.s. that kx bike forum I made is going great! I wanna see your bike, TUck, if you can!

[Friar-Tuck]

 Hey Chris,
 No there won't be any oil under the cover on the flywheel / magneto side.
  The timing should be set in the stock position.  With the mild port work and no other mods to the bike I didn't think changing the timing would improve anything.
 
I think I've read your last post 7 or 8 times and am trying to figure out how the bikr revs out wide open in 6th but no powerband 1st thru 5th...
  I think you are telling me there is a lack of acceleration.
Move the clip down one notch and see if the bike needs more fuel. this will richen the mixture slightly.

With no air screw the only adjustment you have left is the needle and needle position.
  If the bike runs good wide open it may just be telling you it can take more fuel.
You may give it a try before opening up the left engine cover.
  Tuck\o/

[chris-mets]

Ok good to know that I dont have to empty the oil if I open it. WHen my old phone broke, it had the exact line position of the stator as a picture on it. I might have it on my other phone though. I have to check.

I will take a look at everything tomorrow If i have extra time tomorrow.

THanks Tuck
Chris

[chris-mets]

Update: I checked my old phone and it had the picture! then I opened the cover and it was exactly the same! So that means it is certainly jetting. That solved it.

THanks
Chris

[chris-mets]

Oh wait I didnt check it right. I only looked at the lines and I didnt look at the arrows on the case. I will get back tomorrow to check.

[chris-mets]

Hey guys. I checked if the timing was right again and it was. So its still the jetting. also when the cover was off I noticed a little puddle of oil in the case...what could that be

Also, today I got a motorcycle for $60! It is a 1978 Honda hawk 400cc. Great condition except the engine I have to scrub like crazy with a brillow pad. I bought it non running. The things that it needs is a battery, a throttle cable and brake cable...The throttle cable doesnt move and there is no brake cable or battery...Its a dual carb two cylinder bike. My friend has a similar bike and he said he could help me. He got his non running too and its running now. His is a four carb cb750. Im never riding it probably until im like 18 haha. It is so big and heavy. I tried kicking it and I can barely push it down one notch. So I have to get the battery for the elctric start.

One more thing. My friend gave me his pocket bike to fix for him. Its an x19 he bought from minipcoketrockets.com. He just bought it and it broke down. It is definetely wiring I know that. My friend that has the cb, a klx140, anda ttr90, said he could help cause hes good at wiring. The bike doesnt crank. Its only electric start automatic. No noise when pressing the button to start it. THe fuse is good but no spark obviously cause it doesnt crank.

Thanks guys.
Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

Oh My goodness!
 You are gonna have to start making room in your "Shop" for all the new projects. 
     Look around for a digital multimeter and check out some vids on how to use one. Sounds like you are gonna need one.  The sooner you pick one up and learn how to use it the better.   
   You should see if you can pick up one of those books by Eric Gorr and a service manual for that Hawk. 
  One more suggestion is a book called how to restore your classic motorcycle.  I think it's by motorbooks workshop.      The carbs will be a little different but same basic Idea, meter the fuel and air.
  Take some photo's of the area you are gonna work on in case things don't look "right".
You should also pay attention to the way the throttle cables are hooked up,the linkage between them and how they are hooked together.    Also be very careful to label the vacuume lines to the carb and possibly the  Fuel tap/petcock.  Alot of bikes have a vacuum line to the tank to keep the tank vented and open the fuel to the carbs.     Take your time, take good notes, take digi photo's and label the connections clearly.
   Tuck\o/ 

[chris-mets]

Haha Im catching up to a kid I know that is in my grade. He I believe has 8 or 9.
From what I searched digital multimeters are pretty cheap so I will be sure to get one when Im at it.
The Hawk actually came with the original 1978 manual! haha my friend that has his cb, he said when he took his carbs off (4 carbs) it will be impossible to ge tthem back on without a special oil because the rubber is so old and the oil will soften it back up.

I got a picture for you guys of all my toys except the dr cause its apart right now cause my dad is getting the seat reapolstered.

Thanks guy.

CHris

[Friar-Tuck]

This will have some of the info you seek Grass-Hoopa
   http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Motorcycle-Motorbooks/dp/0760337721/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1319683517&sr=1-2
     

[madness]

well i havnt read all th posts but check to make sure your niddle  is not bent. check your plug gap i messed around with mine and got where i liked it.as far as the air screw you do have one you just have to drill to get to it. never understood why they covered it. i went and bought a brand new one for 110  from sudco. still have some minor adjustments to do but alot better than it was. you might want to check your float height also