KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!

[1989kawasaki]

what happens if you remove the primary gears and just grab the con rod and rotate the crank,, then does it move freely?
if it does then it could be other issues....

[chris-mets]

when the primary gear isnt on it still is stuck. Isnt it cause of no oil or am I wrong??

[1989kawasaki]

then you probably put the crank in crooked

[chris-mets]

Ok thanks. Tomorrow I will reopen the case and oil the bearings and seals and try again.

[1989kawasaki]

make sure everything goes in straight!

ok buddy , lets us know what happens.

[DoldGuy]

nope the piston isnt even on...i think I have to split the engine again and oil the bearings and seals..right?

Chris,
Slow down.....we have all been in your position before, and can tell you from mistakes made....be patient. Oil is NOT going to make the crank turn over easy, investigate why it's "rough" turning over. Pull the clutch off & try again....you want to isolate the crank...it will have more friction/drag than when you first pulled it apart. If it still feels rough, you will need to split the cases & research the cause. During assembly, I always lube the crank seals with premix oil & the trans seals with gear box oil to help prevent tearing the seal.

Patients will reward you!

DoldGuy

[1989kawasaki]

nope the piston isnt even on...i think I have to split the engine again and oil the bearings and seals..right?

Chris,
Slow down.....we have all been in your position before, and can tell you from mistakes made....be patient. Oil is NOT going to make the crank turn over easy, investigate why it's "rough" turning over. Pull the clutch off & try again....you want to isolate the crank...it will have more friction/drag than when you first pulled it apart. If it still feels rough, you will need to split the cases & research the cause. During assembly, I always lube the crank seals with premix oil & the trans seals with gear box oil to help prevent tearing the seal.

Patients will reward you!

DoldGuy

hes right

[Marco810]

could be the crank isnt centered causing it to bind on the case. make sure both crank webs have the same amount of space on either side

[chris-mets]

Ok, today I loosened all the screws to take off the half of the case and I took the clutch and primary gear off and it move a tiny bit tough but i think thats normal for new seals...but when i tighten them it doesnt move a bit. and when you look down where the crank is you can see a gap on one side and I think marco is right.

[chris-mets]

and i always have my cell phone so my number is 201 835 5486....i want this done asap cause i want to ride it to school on the last day ) pleaseee help. thanks

[chris-mets]

Ok I just resplit the engine and saw how the crank moved without oil on the one side then took the crank out put oil on bearing and seal and shaft and it moved how it should! then I looked at the other side and saw that the machine shop didnt push the bearing in all the way I think...so im gonna put a rag on the bearing and hit it hard...the bad thing is I bought a wiseco piston 3 months ago and cant find it...so I have to buy a new one FML please text

[1989kawasaki]

hitting the crank and the bearing will damage it. take 10 mins and go to a shop that will do it properly in 2 seconds......

[chris-mets]

I got the bearing all the way on and oiled the bearings and seals and crank...so i went ahead and tried putting on  the case halve and I made sure it went on straight. It has about 1/4 of an inch left to tighten until its on all the way but when I tighten from here it doesnt move. I wish someone can like come over and help. I would greatly appreciate it.

[chris-mets]

I meant when I tighten more the crank doesnt move

[Motorrad]

Okay.. Ill jump in here...


Not going to lecture on hitting bearings with hammers etc...



first..  I normaly like to install the bearings into the cases FIRST... as it makes the process a bit easyer


But since you are the other way around... here is how I would go about it..


Find yourself some scrap steel, old sockets, etc   that are big enough to fit around where the bearings go in the cases (But not touch the crank seals)..

Put them in the oven at 500Deg F..

put your crank and bearings in the freezer for ATLEAST 4 hours... 

put the heated sockets on the cases..      wait about 4min.. (now is a good time to put on your Yamabond).. go get another... put on the case.... go get your crank..   

Crank should DROP IN the clutch side case...  But since your working the other way around... BE PREPARED for it not to... 60% chance it wont..     (Did I mention you should have already applied your Yamabond??)

WORK FAST..

get the ignition side case, and drop it on... it should go on fairly easy...   torque all case bolts to 1/2 spec...  then to 3/4 spec... then to 100% spec...



You can also do this by putting both cases in the oven set at 180D F...        NOTE NITRILE TEMP RATING IS 250d f    SO......

This doesnt work as good, as it wont get the cases as hot as the socket way of going..    but if you dont have sockets big enough, etc... it is the way to go