Author Topic: New kickstand design  (Read 10994 times)

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Offline triffecpa

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New kickstand design
« Reply #15 on: June 21, 2004, 10:13:24 AM »
I'd be interested in one if the price is around $50.  Thanks for sharing a great idea.  Tracy

toddwunsch

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New kickstand design
« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2004, 12:12:35 PM »
Just take your bike to a muffler shop.  They'll weld that right on for you for about an hour's labor.  By the way, I observed some guys jumping trailer ramps out in Beaumont a few weeks back and I noticed, from time to time, they would stop their two strokes next to the ramp to make adjustments.  They would turn off the petcock and simply lay the bike down on the sprocket side of the bike with the handlebar in the dirt to keep most of the bike out of the dirt.  I tried it a few times with my KX-500 and had no problem.  Turned the gas back on and started right up in one kick.  Anyone see any problems with this ?

Rick

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New kickstand design
« Reply #17 on: June 24, 2004, 05:18:33 AM »
Nope...unless you riding the last part of a 100 mile mountain ride...and your old...and your tire...and you hope no one laughs when you ask for help getting your bike of the ground.   :blink:

Pinchy

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Who made that one in the gallery thats bolt on?
« Reply #18 on: July 06, 2004, 07:34:33 PM »
I want to know who made the one in the gallery thats justa bolt on solution. Looks real beefy.
I made one from a old kickstand cut from a salvage bike that looks ugly and is real wimpy. I need to reweld the peg for the spring coz its not really strong enuf to hold the kick up real tight like i want.
and if you try to stand on the bike
with the kick down and try to tip it over it will bend it if you really want it to.

I uploaded some pics to the gallery and some pics with the mcmaster carr pipe mount.

Offline KXcam22

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New kickstand design
« Reply #19 on: July 13, 2004, 03:56:54 AM »
I built a variation of Ricks excellent design out of scraps in my shop.  Given the 3 mounting holes right there I couldn't resist making it a bolt on (for my new KX?). I also didn't like spacing the footpeg out 1/4" so I fabricated the plate with an integral footpeg mount (mine was bent anyway).  Mounting plate is 1/4" 316SS.  The kickstand is 3 piece aluminum; pivot, 3/4" pipe for the main part, an oversize foot and a cool 1/2" titanium pivot bolt. The pivot bolt could be smaller but I had the leftover bolt in my desk at work.  Total weight added is 570g (1.25 lbs).  I have a bunch of pictures and fab details if anyone is interrested. Cam.

mikesmith

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New kickstand design
« Reply #20 on: July 13, 2004, 08:09:56 PM »
Nice job!

Rick

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New kickstand design
« Reply #21 on: July 14, 2004, 10:44:03 AM »
Yup, looks cool.  Great fab work.

mikesmith

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New kickstand design
« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2004, 09:37:27 PM »
You where asking if any one was interested in more info,well I am,and Im sure the rest of us are so can you give us "the how to".Between your and Ricks we can get some good kick stand ideas,thanks.

Offline KXcam22

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New kickstand design
« Reply #23 on: August 10, 2004, 07:38:35 AM »
Here are some details for this kickstand. It was nice to have Rick's design to look at when I built mine. Hopefully someone will look at Rick's & mine and come up with another one.  I have about 300 miles on it so far with no problems. The only weak point I have found (so far) is where I welded the pivot to the aluminum pipe.  I used 3/8" aluminum for the pivot and it is OK but could be stronger. You can bend it if you try. I don't think I could lean my bike on it to lube the chain. If I was to build another, I think I would use the 1/2" aluminum flatbar that Rick used on his to simplify the fabrication. So far I haven't built built a safety catch since there is no movement and the sidepanel traps it enough so it can't fall down if the spring broke. My sidepanels curl in a bit so I have to fold it/unfold it by hand.  The oversized foot is really nice.  Happy building!. I will be happy to answer any questions. Cam.

Materials List:
mount plate      - 4"x1/4" 316SS flatbar, 7" long
kickstand         - 3/4"x 16" thickwall aluminum pipe (I used 3/4" aluminum rigid electrical conduit)
kickstand foot   - 1-1/2"x2-1/2"x 1/4" aluminum plate
kickstand pivot - 2"x3"x1/2" aluminum plate ( I used 3/8" which is not quite tough enough)
piovot stop       - 6mm allen bolt
pivot bolt          - 1/2" x 1" titanium or other with nut on the back(I shaved the head to clear the spring)
spring           - KTM or other
top spring mount- 1-1/2"x1/4" SS bolt

Base Plate:
It is best to start with a cardboard template (template.jpg). Cut the
rough carboard shape, cut out each mounting hole in turn and install the bolt so that they all line up nicely.
A good way to mark the holes is to tap the cardboard lightly
(over the hole) with the rounded end of a ball peen hammer so it marks a round crease
on the inside of the template.  With the template bolted on the bike, mark the outline of the frame
on the back side of the template. Mark the final cut line, parallel to the frame outline, giving a further 1/4"clearance from the frame. Mark the pivot hole center and trim the outline of the template to it's final shape.
Transcribe the template onto the 4" flatbar and cut the rough outline. Drill the three mounting holes and test fit. Some hole filing may be required. When the plate mounts nicely, do the final outline shaping with a file (kpcutside.jpg). Cut the bend line and bend approx 15 degrees (kpcutprofie.jpg).

Footpeg mounts:
Cut 2ea 1-1/4"x1" pieces (pegbracket.jpg). Sandwich them together and drill a 3/8" footpeg pivot hole.
The final hole size (larger) is drilled after welding to align the holes. Bolting the the 2 plates together while shaping them helps to make them identical.

Kickstand:
The pivot inserts into the 3/4" pipe. The pivot hole is threaded and a 1/2" nut on the back locks the pivot bolt.
It is best to mock up the kickstand a few times before any welding. I must have done this 20 times or more. To get the foot/floor angle right, with the pivot inserted into the pipe and all bends done, stand the bike on it. Using the thickness of the kickstand foot, mark the floor angle all the way around the pipe and cut the pipe.  I cut my pipe 2 or 3 times before I was happy with the resting angle of the bike. I used the triangle stand as a
guide for bike position. (ksfoot.jpg, ks_pivot_side.jpg pivot.jpg kickstand_end.jpg)


Welding:
Welding stainless steel is easier than mild steel.  Buy special SS rod and use 20% less heat. The flux coating pops off by itself when it cools (Wear glasses). Weld the bend, filling in the largest gap with small ss scrap. Bolt the 2 finished footpeg mount plates to the footpeg pivot using a 3/8" bolt, position on the base plate and mark (use the stock mount to eyeball the angle). Tack weld the upper plate in position. Remove the footpeg and 2nd plate and final weld the 1st plate, after checking that the angle is correct. Reattach the footpeg and 2nd plate and tack weld the 2nd plate into place. Remove footpeg and final weld. You may have to do some grinding so the footpeg rotates smoothly. Either grinding or some weld under the footpeg stop will adjust the final peg angle (ksside.jpg).
Polishing:
A strip of scotchbrite pad in a drill or minigrinder works great. For a tool, cut the head and threads off a long (6") 1/4" bolt then hacksaw a 1" slot lengthwise in the shaft. Put long strips of scotchbrite in the slot, and wind them in the direction of grinder rotation and polish away. Best to do it outside as it is a bit messy.

Spring:
I used an old 1979 RM400 kickstand spring I had been saving (for this?).  A new longer KTM spring would be better (longer) then you could also measure the proper extended length as used on a bike. Drill & tap the top mount hole at the 1/2 way mark in the kickstand travel arc. Cut the bolt off flush with the backside and tack weld in place on the front. The bottom spring mount is just a 1/8" hole in the pipe.

Hints:
1. use a drillpress for all holes
2. grind the final kickstand travel stops with the stand mounted on the bike (so you don't go too far like I did)
3. weld slowly and let it cool down lots so you don't warp the mount plate.
4. install the 6mm stop on the pivot AFTER making the mounting plate. It is much easier to drill the hole in the  right spot rather than file the mount plate for hours (like me) to make it fit.
5. I was too lazy to find a metric bolt so I replaced the chain roller bolt with a 5/16" x 3-1/2" SS bolt trimmed to 3-3/16" and drilled out the frame hole slightly (mostly for alignment). A thin washer under the plate may be required for spacing.

mikesmith

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New kickstand design
« Reply #24 on: August 10, 2004, 07:26:32 PM »
Wow,great how to!Thanks!

Rick

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New kickstand design
« Reply #25 on: August 11, 2004, 09:11:55 AM »
Don't ya just love building stuff that works!!  I have over 1000 miles with the new leg in place, and the only problem I have had is keeping the nut tight.  I used a crimp style lock nut, but found I needed to add blue locktite.  I've got a couple of hundred miles since the lock tight was added, and it seems to have worked.  

As a note, I'm not real confortable using my kickstand to lube the chain, so just put it on a popup stand in the garage during cleaning.  Since I use an O-ring chain, it doesn't require lubrication as often.

Can't wait to see other designs.  For the catch, I switched to the little rubber KTM strap and 3/8" fine thread counter sunk bolt.  I had to drill a small hole in the edge of the air box and insert the rubber strap from inside, but it is a much cleaner look and easier to put on and off.  The taper on the bolt helps keep the rubber strap from coming off, so I can ride with confidence that the kickstand stays in place.  The spring seems to be secure as well, but just can't trust it.

Happy building.

Rick

Offline KXcam22

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New kickstand design
« Reply #26 on: August 23, 2004, 08:33:35 AM »
After some testing I have found that I definately need to make some type of catch.  The spring I used isn't quite strong enough (hey I thought 1980 was a good year for srpings).  On a big bottom out my kickstand popped out of the sidepanel. I think the KTM spring and a catch is in order.  Rick, can you post a pic of your latest catch with the KTM rubber strap. Thanks. Cam.

Rick

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New kickstand design
« Reply #27 on: August 30, 2004, 10:22:08 AM »
I have added a picture of my rubber KTM catch in the gallary.  I drilled a hole in the edge of my air box, and had to modify the square end of the KTM rubber catch to get it to sit right (once you see one you will know what I mean).  The catch is very clean looking and easy to use.

Rick

Offline KXcam22

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New kickstand design
« Reply #28 on: August 31, 2004, 02:59:25 AM »
Rick,
  Thanks fo the pic.  I looks great, simple but secure.  I think I will build one similar, just have to think a bit on how best to handle a round, hollow  kickstand shaft. Cam.

Offline crewfor32

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Help with the pics
« Reply #29 on: February 01, 2006, 01:29:44 PM »
Help!  I'm not able to find the pics.