some bottom end questions

[jonny500]

the sellector forks need to be measured to see if they are within spec. the gear should be replaced, also check the drive dogs on the side of the gears for rounding. the crank is not usable, the journal is down on size. 29.95 will spin in the bearing. you need to buy a new crank half or find someone that can repair it. i would do all the bearings inside the casings to be sure

[tschisi]

Do you know the values for mearuring the shift forks?
Can i find them in the clymer manual here in the forum?

Can anytone tell me the size of the 5 inner ball bearings?
I want to check prices of standard bearings, and don?t know if it?s good to measure the size of my used bearings...

[jonny500]

yes all specs are in the clymer. is it a kx 500?.

[tschisi]

Yes, a 1990.

[Friar-Tuck]

look around here for some more info: http://s69.photobucket.com/home/Friar-Tuck/index


and click forward from here: http://www.kxriders.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=1&pos=12
 

[kwakman]

crank seal/bearing area can be repaired by machining and then being hard chromed.crank has to be v bad (worse than yours) to be completely scrap.

[Goat]

When you are ready to buy bearings try to find a local bearing supplier. I have a place called Joint Clutch & Gear. They build drive shafts from scratch and carry all kinds of gears, u-joints, and bearings. I saved about $100 going that route instead of getting Kawasaki or Aftermarket bearings. Just make sure you get "High Speed" bearings or they wont last very long. There are numbers etched in each bearing on one or both sides. If you take the old bearings with you they will match them up.

A local machine shop should be able to fix the bearing surface on your crank. I've seen much worse that have been fixed and worked good.

[tschisi]

I?m still waiting for my crank to be pressed out of the right case and the halves to be separated. 
My shift forks are in spec, there are just tiny spots on the "guide pins" that are out of spec if i measure exactly there.

Btw, another question that i already know what you?ll say:
Can i just replace the rod bearings and pins, and keep the old rod?

[Goat]

I recommend if replacing the lower rod bearing you might as well replace the rod. Bearings will create their own groove and putting new bearings in an old rod could cause problems in the future. Always better to do it once as it will save you money and down time if the rod or bearing gives out in the near future. Which equals more ride time.

[tschisi]

I?m thinking about buying a tool for pressing the case halfs together again.
Such as the tusk cse splitting tool shown on the youtube RockyMountain ATV MC clips.
Unfortunately i can?t find it in european eb*y.

Do you just press the cases together with a hydraulic press or do you use special tools?
I heard the crank can be bent when just pressing the cases together, and not "pulling the crank into the case".

 

[kwakman]

pressing the cases together is a new one on me.you have several things to line up and lots of stuff to damage using a press if things aren't lined up correctly.as far as im aware, you can draw the crank into the  left side case using tusk tool after using the heat method on right case, but you may as well save ?60 and use heat on both sides and a plastic or other soft faced mallet to help get the shafts into line.as for ebay, get the item number from ebay u.s. and enter it into search bar on your local fleabay.jobs a fish. whereabouts are you based?

[tschisi]

I?m in austria, but i can?t find it on eb*y us either?!
Are there any other tools?
I can?t imagine everyone who is splitting cases owns the tusk tool...

[tschisi]

I was offered a tool like this:



Am i right to think that:

- This tool is ok but i need one more Adapter (should be just a screw) to insert it into the right crank half?
Like the two black screws in this:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?webCatId=22&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools/Shop&navType=type&prodFamilyId=17166&stockId=143200

- and because of that i don?t need a clip like this:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=117&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=30873
because the k5 has a primary gear with a thread, not a clip?

- and that i need some special tool to loosen the primary drive?

Please help, i?d like to offer the tool soon.

Question 2:
I could get a connecting rod set from HotRods Inc.
Are they ok?

[snoopjonnyjon]

I used a Kawasaki crank jig and hydraulic press. They aren't terribly expensive. I can't remember how much it was, but it wasn't prohibitive.

[tschisi]

How does the jig work?
Is it just a distance to prevent the crank from bending?
That brings me to the idea to build a distance an use a simple press too