On the subject of engine work

[delphipro5]

It's a strange thing but I just f#*#ing hate pump gas!!!   But I don't want to run crazy compression ratios ethier. And with the amount this bike will get ridden in a year, I could be filling the tank with liquid gold and it wouldnt drain my pocket! I think 10 gal. would last the year! this thing is strictly my baby only on the blue moon weekend when I get free time!! But I am completly confused as to an alternitive fuel to pump gas, it's either drain the carb and tank every ride with the U4.4, or run crazy compressions for fuels I don't really need, or aviation fuel 100ll. I just wish a place like webber or sunoco could supply me with a 93-94 oct. GASOLINE with NO Ethanol in it!!!! DAMB IT!!!

[kaw rider]

The bad thing about the fuels now days kills the o-ring in these keihin carbs you can't get or buy.

[delphipro5]

After more thought I am thinking maybe 100LL AV may be the answer. I can prob. get it locally and store and use it rather easily. I NEED to figure this out because I have my Carb. at Dick's racing and I NEED to specifiy which fuel I will be using so they can jet it accordingly. How would I go about telling them I plan on using AV fuel? will they be cool with that? Also I am sending my head to Larry Wiechman to have his Comp. Re. done and also the head work, so I will need to specify with him also the fuel used so he can machine it accordingly. Down to the wire now so I need to figure this out this week by Wed.

[meangreen]

Keep us posted on what you decide on for fuel - I am in a similar mindset of "where do I get fuel".

Ben

[Motorrad]

I run 50/50 mix of premium pump and 100LL on my K5 and all my vintage stuff..  They all love it.  Vintage stuff pings on just pump, and 4 strokes on straight....    My vintage bikes with valves like it also (triumph norton BSA)

[meangreen]

Motorrad, Is that premium pump with Ethanol?  I assume so since that is the only thing most of us have access to.

[Rd]

This may be a repost , but here is a good link to current avgas prices in the US.
http://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html

Motorad.
 What kind of oil and fuel seperation  issues have you expeirenced with 100ll?
Thanks

[delphipro5]

I tested my stator coils and - Blk/Wh-Blk/Yel= 318.4 Ohm , Re/Wh-Blk/Yel= 10.3 Ohm
The first is out of range by 88.4 ohms respectivley. And the second is on the high end of within range.
SO what is the fix for this? What can I or need I do about this?

 Also the flywheel looks a little rough, chk it out.




Here's the head and cylinder too.





What do ya think look O.K.? this bolt looks a little nasty!

[1989kawasaki]

make sure you put anti - seize on those bolts!

[sandblaster]

There are some coils here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ELECTREX-LIGHTING-Stator-KAWASAKI-KX500-89-04-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19baf96eb0QQitemZ110511091376QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
And
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ELECTREX-Stator-Source-Coil-KAWASAKI-KX500-89-04-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem230be78769QQitemZ150523578217QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Or, PM kaw rider as he has a source to get them repaired to the correct specs.

From what I can see your cylinder looks ok but you should mic it to be certain.

I have seen a lot of fly wheels that looked like that but they worked fine.
Clean it up and it should be fine.

Clean the threads up and use a anti corrosive on them.

All is my humble opinion based on what I see.

[delphipro5]

I guess it is time I go over what it is I am looking to get out of this engine build and see if it will all work together.
 I would like to rebuild this motor so that it will produce smooth tractable power that is even through the whole powerband. Someting for FAST trail riding open trails quick stuff, and still able to lug it through short sections of pine forest mud/root trail. I would also like to outfit it to drink something other than pump gas, BUT nothing that requires me to increase compression too far over stock ( C10).
I have some mods. that I would like to do, such as the windowed piston(seems to make sense, and actually lets the engine cool a bit better), Kips valve overturn fix(KIPS Bolt), steathy 14oz. flywheel weight(power smoothing ,luggability),Barnett steel clutch(dirt digger) A good crank rebuild/balancing, new bearings and seals all around, new v-force2 reeds and reed spacer, Carb. boreing mods and dial-a-jet from Dicks. I really like the look and idea of the Dicks mods and the dial-a-jet but am not too sure if it is what I want or, if it will work with everything else? Am I being led astray by dirt bike mag. articles??
DECIDED TO GO WITH CPW'S 39.5 PWK CARB.- 02/28/11
The Compression release mod offered by Larry weichman( he will also do the dome polish) What else? hmm.. I will be using the stock pipe And then into a pro circuit silencer/sparky(woods legal).
I do not want to mess with the stock porting or bore of the cylinder, these I would like to keep stock.
Also need to right the wrong of an out of spec. stator coil in the ignition too.

So there we go, that is the intention for this motor.

[delphipro5]

I talked to a local shop about all this and he had mentioned that tolerances with the wiseco piston are not as tight as the stock piston, and may cause some piston slap. he suggest going with the oem, but I just spent over $200 on a windowed wiseco from JFAB! Do you guys think piston slap will be a problem for me??

[sandblaster]

Carefully mic your cylinder and your piston and let us know what they read.

[greencannon]

wow, that flywheel looks rough..you can clean that up carefuly with a wire wheel and then a coat of car wax preserves and protects from further rust with no ill effects.

Junk that garbage plastic flywheel cover that warps and lets dirt and water in and replace with Boyeson aftermarket cover. no more erroding flywheel

[delphipro5]

Hey guys, I have been talking about this engine build with a local shop. And he didnt seem too concerned when I told him the stator was 88.4 ohms over spec. So I ask again, what does this really matter? What, if anything will it be doing wrong? And why should it be corrected? Is fixing this really worth spending $$ on?
Here are the readings I got from mine.
Blk/Wh-Blk/Yel= 318.4 Ohm , Re/Wh-Blk/Yel= 10.3 Ohm