Bearing Removal/install and such

[delphipro5]

Hi again, I am starting this thread in the hopes It may shed some light on the subject of Bearings. I have just removed the shock and linkage on my KX500 (along with everything else!) Reference the thread : monument to the 2-stroke to see the project.
 Anyway, I want to replace ALL the bearings/seals as I go, but they are all pressed in and won't budge. For my stem races in the frame I bought the OEM removal tools to do it the right way, but they cost a lot! I had a local car mech. I know remove the lower stem bearing for me, and he marred up the stem OK doing it. so I mean, He even had trouble with it and he's got a whole garage full of tools! I am not really in the mood to buy a 10 ton press and a complete set of bearing remover / presser dies For this project. BUT, I will not be heating the crap(not good) out of all my cast aluminum parts to watch the bearing FALL OUT on my desk!! Nore will I be bringing a Dremel anywhere NEAR anything on this bike!! Nore hammer and chisel either! some one told me you could use sockets for most of the pressing in and out but you still need a press. If anyone has any good ideas let me know. I am wondering if I just buy the OEM bearing press set if it would be worth it in the long run. I would probably need a bunch of removers too.... I just wish I new how the real shops do it!

Next is the subject of lubeing all these bearings. Obviously the new ones just come with a light protector oil on them, and they need to be packed with grease right?? SO, What is the best stuff to use? White lithium, regular bel-ray tub packing grease, mobile one frame fitting grease synthetic, or all different for different applications? what is the best way to pack them? What do the shops use?

well that's it, if ya got input leave it here.

[Hillclimb#42]

Well, I feel what you're sayin' about goin caveman on the bike that is your baby costing lots of dough to restore, but it is that simple. An old socket that is just a hair smaller than the bearing can be beat out pretty easily. A little heat on the area around the bearing aids in breaking it loose. Trust me, you can break castings and factory seems with the press tool, too. I have spent alot of time with suspension bearings trying to be careful. Its only when you get sick of messin' around that bearings start falling out. Use a block of wood to back up your parts and either the right socket or punch, will knock them right out. Freeze the new bearings, then a little heat on the hole, and you don't have to beat the crap out of your new bearings.

I noticed the same deal with wheel bearings. No grease. The seals pop right off on wheel bearings, and surprisingly enough, barely any grease in there. Some experienced guys on here pointed out that over packing them is bad, but a little grease makes them last longer. I have no preference on grease, as long as it is a good name brand.

[Motorrad]

 Mix up my own Potion.   Mix of syn marine wheel bearing grease and cv axle grease...   Best I havE found for lots of Milage and racing

[kxpegger]

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ategory/tools/

There's a right way and a wrong way to install needle roller bearings. Right tool for the job. Also you press against the stamped side which is thicker than the rolled side. A lot of people use sockets, nuts. washers and a piece of allthread to push them in and this may cause damage to the bearing housing. The press tool should have a 15 degree back cut.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...n_Part3of3.pdf

[greencannon]

Traveling tool shows always have cheap 12ton shop presses and various sockets that work great for this application. Do some digging around you'll find one.
 I currently use a LARGE bench vise and various sockets. One small socket to push out old bearing and a large enough one on other side for wasted bearing to fall into. A friend to help hold the pc while cranking the vise helps process but is not required. If i were to run a shop or performing this task frequently I would puchase the factory or high quality tools, but these work just fine.
I used to heat, freeze, hammer and smack stuff back in the day but that got old and i have wisened up since.

 As for damaging needle bearings and races with sockets and such, I keep most old bearing sleeves around and cut them into different lengths. I temporary install them into new bearing with grease (to help them stay put) before apllying force to new bearing. The needle bearing and race strength is greatly reduced without sleeve. It will not deform or get damaged  when sleeve in place and a press of some sort is used (do not hammer)
My linkage bearing woes have all gone since I adopted this method. works like a charm

[don46]

I think your way to worried about using heat, I have used the heat cold method forever and on all types of applications with no ill effects, but hey its your bike and you should do it your way.

Just remember when you go to install them they damage rather easily if you try to force the issue, so be careful.

[sandblaster]

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ategory/tools/

There's a right way and a wrong way to install needle roller bearings. Right tool for the job. Also you press against the stamped side which is thicker than the rolled side. A lot of people use sockets, nuts. washers and a piece of allthread to push them in and this may cause damage to the bearing housing. The press tool should have a 15 degree back cut.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...n_Part3of3.pdf

I can't get either link to work.
Anybody else having trouble?

I do agree that it is better to use the tool.
If your careful you can use the socket method in most cases without a hitch.
I prefer using the press but a vice will work in a pinch.
I have even had to resort to using a C clamp with some sockets on occasion

[cbmoor]

I used sockets and the bench vice on my bikes when changing out these bearings and it worked a treat.

[kxpegger]

Sorry not sure what happened! Here's the links again.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/tools/


http://www.timken.com/en-us/solutions/automotive/aftermarket/lightduty/TechTips/Documents/Vol5Iss1_Needle_Bearing_Installation_Part2of3.pdf

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solutions/automotive/aftermarket/lightduty/TechTips/Documents/Vol5Iss2_Needle_Bearing_Installation_Part3of3.pdf

[sandblaster]

Good info.
Thanks!

[delphipro5]

Good stuff guys.
On the heat issue- yes, a little heat goes a long way, and freezing the bearing is also a good idea. expansion and contraction... can't argue with nature.
But going neanderthal on it is never a good idea.

If my linkage bearings are 11 years old, and I have it all apart, don't you think changing them is a good idea even if they seem to look o.k.?

[delphipro5]

So as we all Know, the manual is calling for molybdenum disulfide grease all the time. And after reading into it a little, I think that using it for the linkage bearings, swingarm bearings, and shock bearings, is a very good idea. I like Mobil1, but it is not a moly grease. So I am thinking about using Mobil CM-P NGLI#2 3% Moly lithium complex grey grease. This stuff is contractor/mining grease. Anyone out there have another moly grease they want to plug? 3%-5%

 I was also thinking of getting the moly itself in ultra high powder form and experiment with coating things, and adding it to other greases and oils, I could mix it in the mobil1 and make my own moly grease!

[Motorrad]

So as we all Know, the manual is calling for molybdenum disulfide grease all the time. And after reading into it a little, I think that using it for the linkage bearings, swingarm bearings, and shock bearings, is a very good idea. I like Mobil1, but it is not a moly grease. So I am thinking about using Mobil CM-P NGLI#2 3% Moly lithium complex grey grease. This stuff is contractor/mining grease. Anyone out there have another moly grease they want to plug? 3%-5%

 I was also thinking of getting the moly itself in ultra high powder form and experiment with coating things, and adding it to other greases and oils, I could mix it in the mobil1 and make my own moly grease!

The best linkage grease I have found is.. as follows....

GOOD SEALS... if you cant keep the dirt otu, and the grease in... give up...

CV axle grease...  Mixed with HIGH DOLLAR marine wheel bearing grease....

Lots of moly in the CV, and HIGH pressure, and good water etc propertys due to the marine grease...  (some times a little dab of royal purple gear oil works nice as well)

Also this mix makes it a flowable grease... so It can migrate around in the bearings...

Since going to this mix I havnt had any issues any more.

[alward25]

I run Amsoil water resistant grease and it works fantastic!  No mixing required.

[Polar-Bus]

I've done quite a few Kawi swingarm and dogbone bearing swaps. Here's a few tricks. First you really need a hydraulic shop press to do the job easily. You can do it in your garage/basement, but it's going to require some patients and a BIG vice. I DON'T recommend the socket and hammer method.  I do machining by trade, so I take the extra time to machine up some custom pilot type bearing drivers and use a hydraulic press. I like to heat up the aluminum bores and I also throw the needle bearings in the freezer overnight. This makes the bearings press in MUCH smoother.
For my secret recipie for linkage bearing grease I use a 50/50 mix of Bel Ray grease and antisieze.