Home Brew

[martinfan30]

Anyone here make your own beer? Just got a Mr Beer 2 gallon kit last week and started a batch of pale ale. It seems to still be fermenting. Although the bubbles are slowly dissipating. I want to bottle it, but don't want to rush it. Any tips, tricks or ideas?

[Motorrad]

Wow you have stumbled on my "other' sickness besides motorcycles.

I have been brewing for YEARS... way before it was "Cool"...

My current capacitys are...
20Gallon Batches.
70Gallons worth of fermenters.
150 Gallons worth of Corny kegs
10Tap Kegorator, 1 of which is a guinness tap on nitrogen
8' digital temp controlled lagering fridge

I have several awards from local competitions.. (del mar fair). for some of my recipes..

[Motorrad]

Oh as far as tips..

You will never get Great beer out of that kit... drinkable.. yes... but GREAT... no...  Just not enough controll etc..

Now..

How long ago did you start the fermentation (put yeast in it)?   
What tempuraturs has it been fermenting at (temp of room its in)
What kind of yeast? (ale or lager)
Do you have a original gravity reading?

#1 mistake most make is bottling too soon..  as either fermentatin isnt done yet.. OR.. alot of newbs dont know.. that yeast when fermenting leave "off flavors" behind while they do their work.. and if you let it sit for a while after they are done "eating".. they will actually clean up after themselfs a little bit... ... autalisis isnt an issue in small batches...   but oxigination is with plastic.. so... its all a balance..

A great book to pick up and read in your extra time.. you will learn alothttp://www.amazon.com/Complete-Homebrewing-Third-Harperresource-Book/dp/0060531053

[martinfan30]

Oh as far as tips..

You will never get Great beer out of that kit... drinkable.. yes... but GREAT... no...  Just not enough controll etc..

Now..

How long ago did you start the fermentation (put yeast in it)?   
What tempuraturs has it been fermenting at (temp of room its in)
What kind of yeast? (ale or lager)
Do you have a original gravity reading?

#1 mistake most make is bottling too soon..  as either fermentatin isnt done yet.. OR.. alot of newbs dont know.. that yeast when fermenting leave "off flavors" behind while they do their work.. and if you let it sit for a while after they are done "eating".. they will actually clean up after themselfs a little bit... ... autalisis isnt an issue in small batches...   but oxigination is with plastic.. so... its all a balance..

I added the wort to the keg, then the yeast. This was at 5pm last monday.

Temperature has been between 66 and 68, constant.

The yeast is just what came with the can of HME. 2 gm of brewing yeast. IDK what strain, it's dry.

I don't have anything to measure specific gravity.

This kit seems to be a beginners kit. I followed the directions with the kit in great detail. I do however plan to upgrade after I brew the remaining 3 cans of HME. We have a local brewing supply store and was in there drooling over the bigger 5 gal capacity fermenters/kits.

I can say I am already addicted to this process! It's cool man. I really like your setup, and see myself there in a couple years EASILY!

I am waiting for the bubbles and floating colonies to subside and go away like the book said before I bottle. (1 liter plastic bottles with plastic sealed caps).

Then I'm supposed to bottle, and warm condition for at least 7 days, then cold condition for at least a couple.

Any help you give is greatly appreciated! I don't have anyone here to discuss and BS with over the process.

[Motorrad]

Oh as far as tips..

You will never get Great beer out of that kit... drinkable.. yes... but GREAT... no...  Just not enough controll etc..

Now..

How long ago did you start the fermentation (put yeast in it)?   
What tempuraturs has it been fermenting at (temp of room its in)
What kind of yeast? (ale or lager)
Do you have a original gravity reading?

#1 mistake most make is bottling too soon..  as either fermentatin isnt done yet.. OR.. alot of newbs dont know.. that yeast when fermenting leave "off flavors" behind while they do their work.. and if you let it sit for a while after they are done "eating".. they will actually clean up after themselfs a little bit... ... autalisis isnt an issue in small batches...   but oxigination is with plastic.. so... its all a balance..

I added the wort to the keg, then the yeast. This was at 5pm last monday.

Temperature has been between 66 and 68, constant.

The yeast is just what came with the can of HME. 2 gm of brewing yeast. IDK what strain, it's dry.

I don't have anything to measure specific gravity.

This kit seems to be a beginners kit. I followed the directions with the kit in great detail. I do however plan to upgrade after I brew the remaining 3 cans of HME. We have a local brewing supply store and was in there drooling over the bigger 5 gal capacity fermenters/kits.

I can say I am already addicted to this process! It's cool man. I really like your setup, and see myself there in a couple years EASILY!

I am waiting for the bubbles and floating colonies to subside and go away like the book said before I bottle. (1 liter plastic bottles with plastic sealed caps).

Then I'm supposed to bottle, and warm condition for at least 7 days, then cold condition for at least a couple.

Any help you give is greatly appreciated! I don't have anyone here to discuss and BS with over the process.

Well the bubbles shold slow and stop within the next few days (id bet wednesday)..
Id bottle 2-3 days after it stops.. (If it were a glass setup Id say a week, to let the yeast clean up after themselfs... but too much risk with the plastic).. when you bottle... the less airation the better (no splashing, etc of the beer, as oxigen is bad...).. (I actually purge my kegs bottles etc with CO2 when filling... to get all air out.. (airation when putting into the fermenter is good (before adding yeast)...
Extract tends to chug longer than all grain from my VERY limited experiance with extract...  (on the next two batches, you may want to consider steeping some specialty grains to give the extract some more flavor. (like making tea.. very easy to do, with a local beer supply store)... I can walk you through it... If you want to give it a shot...    can do it on the stove with some water, and pantie hoes actually...

[martinfan30]

I am very interested in trying some steeping, and adding additional flavor to the beer that this kit produces. I saw a "Muslin" bag at the store and think thats what I would use. A little walk through would be cool man! I will follow your advise for this batch and look forward to getting more involved.

I noticed from what I read, that I don't have much control like you say. I don't like that... So I will be stepping up to some more equipment for sure.

Love the stooges pic!

[Motorrad]

I am very interested in trying some steeping, and adding additional flavor to the beer that this kit produces. I saw a "Muslin" bag at the store and think thats what I would use. A little walk through would be cool man! I will follow your advise for this batch and look forward to getting more involved.

I noticed from what I read, that I don't have much control like you say. I don't like that... So I will be stepping up to some more equipment for sure.

Love the stooges pic!

Yep a Muslin back is what you would use if you dont want to go the ghetto pantie hoes way (id reccomend the mulsin)..

what kits do you have left?  (flavors)

The RED would be the best to add flavor to....

[martinfan30]

I have a can (HME) of Golden Lager, Red Ale and Amber Ale.

A  little confused about the Lager. I understand it's different and needs to be cold conditioned?

[Motorrad]

I have a can (HME) of Golden Lager, Red Ale and Amber Ale.

A  little confused about the Lager. I understand it's different and needs to be cold conditioned?

The Yeast likes to work at colder temp's.. (Mid to high 40's)... where ALE yeast likes to work at warmer temps... (50's-70's depending on strain)

thats what they mean by Cold conditioned..

[martinfan30]

Ok, I see.

Now, do you prefer to use a liquid yeast or dry strain? Is either better for an Ale vs a Lager? Or does it not really matter, and either can be used either way?

[Motorrad]

Ok, I see.

Now, do you prefer to use a liquid yeast or dry strain? Is either better for an Ale vs a Lager? Or does it not really matter, and either can be used either way?

I like the Liquid (Pitchable) yeast...

they tend to be healthear more viable yeast....   at the size of the batches Im doing... I normaly get one Vial of yest... and do a starter (grow the yeast).. resulting in a LARGE ammount of yeast... Saaves me money from buying it when dealing with 20gal batches... also gets you a good Pitch rate.. (too little yeast, and you stress them out, too much and same issue)  all depends on your OG and volume...


If your going to try the steeping... Id do it on the RED....   toss some Crystal 60, perhapse some crystal 80,  in there... and......... (will make a list).. should get some good (better) flavor out of it..


I have had issues with Whitelabs in the past... (FUNK). Unfortunatly since they are local to me. as have some of my buddys that brew for a living...   I have since swapped to Wyeast smack packs (as have they, only not smack packs as they are professional)... 

[Motorrad]

For fun

<<KX500 IPA>>A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

14-B India Pale Ale, American IPA

Min OG: 1.056 Max OG: 1.075
Min IBU: 40 Max IBU: 72
Min Clr: 6 Max Clr: 15 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 10.00 Wort Size (Gal): 10.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 25.25
Anticipated OG: 1.075 Plato: 18.20
Anticipated SRM: 9.1
Anticipated IBU: 140.4
Brewhouse Efficiency: 79 %
Wort Boil Time: 100 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 13.33 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.056 SG 13.86 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
% Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
83.2 21.00 lbs. Maris Otter ? 1.038 3
3.0 0.75 lbs. Wheat Malt America 1.038 2
2.0 0.50 lbs. CaraMunich 60 France 1.034 60
4.0 1.00 lbs. Aromatic Malt Belgium 1.036 25
4.0 1.00 lbs. CaraVienna France 1.035 20
4.0 1.00 lbs. CaraPilsner France 1.035 10

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.00 oz. Northern Brewer Pellet 9.00 61.1 70 min.
0.50 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 10.00 10.9 55 min.
0.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 6.3 55 min.
0.50 oz. Centennial Pellet 10.50 11.5 55 min.
0.50 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 10.00 8.3 40 min.
0.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 4.8 40 min.
0.50 oz. Centennial Pellet 10.50 8.7 40 min.
0.50 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 10.00 4.4 25 min.
0.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 2.5 25 min.
0.50 oz. Centennial Pellet 10.50 4.6 25 min.
0.50 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 10.00 2.9 15 min.
0.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 1.7 15 min.
0.50 oz. Centennial Pellet 10.50 3.1 15 min.
1.00 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 10.00 3.6 5 min.
1.00 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 2.1 5 min.
1.00 oz. Centennial Pellet 10.50 3.8 5 min.


Extras

Amount Name Type Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
0.10 Oz Irish Moss Fining 15 Min.(boil)


Yeast
-----

White Labs WLP002 English Ale


Water Profile
-------------

Profile: Marin County CA
Profile known for:

Calcium(Ca): 12.0 ppm
Magnesium(Mg): 10.0 ppm
Sodium(Na): 15.0 ppm
Sulfate(SO4): 17.0 ppm
Chloride(Cl): 13.0 ppm
biCarbonate(HCO3): 74.0 ppm

pH: 8.31


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Name:

Total Grain Lbs: 25.25
Total Water Qts: 29.04 - Before Additional Infusions
Total Water Gal: 7.26 - Before Additional Infusions

Tun Thermal Mass: 0.00
Grain Temp: 70.00 F


Step Rest Start Stop Heat Infuse Infuse Infuse
Step Name Time Time Temp Temp Type Temp Amount Ratio
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
mash 5 30 100 100 Infuse 105 29.04 1.15


Total Water Qts: 29.04 - After Additional Infusions
Total Water Gal: 7.26 - After Additional Infusions
Total Mash Volume Gal: 9.28 - After Additional Infusions

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.
All infusion amounts are in Quarts.
All infusion ratios are Quarts/Lbs.

[martinfan30]

 

Holy s**t man! Very interesting, but I had no idea!!!!

[Danger4u2]

For sure get away from the plastic containers.  When you buy your fermentation vessel go with the 6 gallon jug.  Most of your kits require the 6 gallon container.  When I was making beer I used the kits.  They are "OK" but like Motorrad say's you must grind if you want to personalize your beer.  My neighbor wanted me to add a Valium to a bottle to see if it would still ferment.  I never did but I told him we could call it "Dummie Beer".  He's kind of, shall we say "out there".
I have not made any in years but I still have all my bottles and equipment.  I use Grolsch bottles with the swing lock top.  And what's the best part of using Grolsch bottles?  There full of beer when you buy them and you have to empty them.
There's nothing like live beer, most store bought beer has been pasteurized, come to think, all store beer is most likely pasteurized.
If you really get into it you should buy a beer bottle drying tree and faucet jet bottle washer.

[martinfan30]

For sure get away from the plastic containers.  When you buy your fermentation vessel go with the 6 gallon jug.  Most of your kits require the 6 gallon container.  When I was making beer I used the kits.  They are "OK" but like Motorrad say's you must grind if you want to personalize your beer.  My neighbor wanted me to add a Valium to a bottle to see if it would still ferment.  I never did but I told him we could call it "Dummie Beer".  He's kind of, shall we say "out there".
I have not made any in years but I still have all my bottles and equipment.  I use Grolsch bottles with the swing lock top.  And what's the best part of using Grolsch bottles?  There full of beer when you buy them and you have to empty them.
There's nothing like live beer, most store bought beer has been pasteurized, come to think, all store beer is most likely pasteurized.
If you really get into it you should buy a beer bottle drying tree and faucet jet bottle washer.

I am looking at the 5 gallon jug kits, but I see the 6 gallon carboys look cool. I was thinking of those Grolsch bottles, but isn't it better going with brown bottles?