Author Topic: 500AF project (Read 31716 times)

azracer19 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 02, 2011, 07:38:50 AM »

not shown are new F 3 levers and pro circuit dog bones along with upper pro curciut top triple clamp anyone with ideas please add your advice....thanks

azracer19 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 04, 2011, 08:52:40 AM »

Graphics

kxpegger · « **Reply #32 on:** March 04, 2011, 02:41:34 PM »

Quote from: azracer19 on March 02, 2011, 07:38:50 AM

not shown are new F 3 levers and pro circuit dog bones along with upper pro curciut top triple clamp anyone with ideas please add your advice....thanks

Have you considered V-1's? They flex in all dimensions not just forward. Very hard to break!

http://www.sixsixone.com/v1-mdx.aspx

I run them on my 500AF and I'm happy with them. They have a less bulky feel then the ASV's that I used to run. The ASV's use the Honda ratio leverage pull and had a slightly easier pull on the clutch but I personally like the V-1's better.

azracer19 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 05, 2011, 02:13:53 AM »

kxpegger, no but good advice that I will use, thank you

azracer19 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 19, 2011, 06:12:08 AM »

Hello I need a little help ! When installing 500 engine in 450 f frame and aligning the swingarm correctly. Whats the proper way to install it all so its aligned correctly? The engine is just millimeters away from fitting on. Do you remove part of the swingarm? I know it sounds like a dumb question but I really dont want to screw this up. Right now its bolted up but I left the shifter side seal off, it wont fit with it on. I attached a few pics but its hard to see.
Thanks in advance

livenlife699 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 19, 2011, 01:58:56 PM »

I did not have to mod mine at all to fit after drilling out the cases..Check the fitment of your spacers that sit in the swingarm, if anything you might have to grind down a mm or 2...Did you use a 43/64" bit or a 17mm?

500donk · « **Reply #36 on:** March 27, 2011, 09:39:30 AM »

Quote from: kxpegger on November 02, 2010, 05:45:35 AM

Radiator hose rubbing up against the sharp edge coil mount.
Radiator hose rubbing against left radiator tubes.
Left radiator lower tank started to rub against top of frame rail.
Coil lead is pulled very tight and just makes it to the spark plug.
Air box boot flange bolt rubbing on the top of the rear shock gouging about 1/8" of material. Glad I caught that one when I did because it was just about through the shock bladder housing.
Air box boot also rubbing on the top of rear shock and minor rubbing against left frame spar.
Fuel line was to short and kept popping off the carb.
Exhaust silencer rubbing against rear fender.
Kick starter rubs and gouges swingarm/frame engine bolt housing.

Except for the bolded one I considered most of these minor issues and I've found solutions for all of them. Overall SH did a decent job!

Kxpegger, how did you fix the problem with the kicker hitting the frame where the swingarm bolt comes through? I?ve gouged the crap out of mine kicking the beast over!

kxpegger · « **Reply #37 on:** March 27, 2011, 11:55:12 AM »

Quote from: 500donk on March 27, 2011, 09:39:30 AM

Quote from: kxpegger on November 02, 2010, 05:45:35 AM
Radiator hose rubbing up against the sharp edge coil mount.
Radiator hose rubbing against left radiator tubes.
Left radiator lower tank started to rub against top of frame rail.
Coil lead is pulled very tight and just makes it to the spark plug.
Air box boot flange bolt rubbing on the top of the rear shock gouging about 1/8" of material. Glad I caught that one when I did because it was just about through the shock bladder housing.
Air box boot also rubbing on the top of rear shock and minor rubbing against left frame spar.
Fuel line was to short and kept popping off the carb.
Exhaust silencer rubbing against rear fender.
Kick starter rubs and gouges swingarm/frame engine bolt housing.

Except for the bolded one I considered most of these minor issues and I've found solutions for all of them. Overall SH did a decent job!

Kxpegger, how did you fix the problem with the kicker hitting the frame where the swingarm bolt comes through? I?ve gouged the crap out of mine kicking the beast over!

Took a Dremel to the frame and removed a slight amount of material. Also from the kickstarter post until it didn't hit anymore. This solved the problem for about a year but as the kickstarter got some slop in it from wear the problem reappeared. It still rubs a little but is "self adjusting" if you know what I mean. I've seen other builds where the offending portion of the frame is completely removed and you might think that it weakens the frame but I have heard of no problems in doing this. I wish I had a better fix. There may be a kickstart lever with a shorter profile at the mounting area that will fit the 500 but I am not aware of one. Wish I had a better answer for you on this one!

500donk · « **Reply #38 on:** March 28, 2011, 08:58:45 AM »

That was what I was thinking of doing. Thought there maybe some clever stopper that someone had come up with. Thanks Kxpegger.
Just to add to the debate on DNA wheels, I brought a pair on ebay to save some money on the kx500af build and found that they are rubbish. They were about half the price of a set of excel wheels, and while they look sic on the bike, the spoke job is crap and the spacers that I received with the wheels dont fit the front wheel axle tube properly. I?ve changed them around from left to right and vice versa and there is a gap between the outer flanged part of the spacer and the axle tube. It just means with time that the spacer is going to mushroom and create sideways play in the front axle. As with the spoke job, its as if they have not used the correct spokes. On some spokes you can see a lot of thread and on some you can see none. They were loose to. Just not a pro job! Not what you would get with Excel or Talon. I wish I had of read the reviews on them before buying!

don46 · « **Reply #39 on:** March 28, 2011, 09:10:08 AM »

Quote from: 500donk on March 28, 2011, 08:58:45 AM

That was what I was thinking of doing. Thought there maybe some clever stopper that someone had come up with. Thanks Kxpegger.
Just to add to the debate on DNA wheels, I brought a pair on ebay to save some money on the kx500af build and found that they are rubbish. They were about half the price of a set of excel wheels, and while they look sic on the bike, the spoke job is crap and the spacers that I received with the wheels dont fit the front wheel axle tube properly. I?ve changed them around from left to right and vice versa and there is a gap between the outer flanged part of the spacer and the axle tube. It just means with time that the spacer is going to mushroom and create sideways play in the front axle. As with the spoke job, its as if they have not used the correct spokes. On some spokes you can see a lot of thread and on some you can see none. They were loose to. Just not a pro job! Not what you would get with Excel or Talon. I wish I had of read the reviews on them before buying!

totally agree with you on the DNA's, guy bragged them up about how big the spokes were and that they were built exactly like a talon and built in the USA. Maybe they were assembled in the USA, but they were surely built in China they are no where near what a Talon is. the big spokes, yeah they are big, but whatever they are made from they are not strong. I wouldn't put them on anything with HP

squeak · « **Reply #40 on:** April 11, 2011, 05:37:33 AM »

You got some nice stuff gathered up, good luck with the build.

alward25 · « **Reply #41 on:** April 11, 2011, 06:33:03 AM »

Johnny Campbell ran stock wheels on all his Baja XR 650's. He said that by the time you upgrade everything you have a lot heavier set up on a bike they were trying to make lighter. He is kind of good at winning races

trim · « **Reply #42 on:** May 16, 2011, 09:26:25 AM »

Got a bit done frame is cut+ ground engine cases are drilled frame rails are almost fit the only problem I have so far the FMF pipe and silencer don't come close to fitting with the engine pushed up as high in the frame as possible the rear pipe bolt will not come even close the silencer inlet tube is way to long and the mounting tabs are not close to fitting. Not having much fun so far!!!!!

livenlife699 · « **Reply #43 on:** May 18, 2011, 11:21:14 AM »

Quote from: trim on May 16, 2011, 09:26:25 AM

Got a bit done frame is cut+ ground engine cases are drilled frame rails are almost fit the only problem I have so far the FMF pipe and silencer don't come close to fitting with the engine pushed up as high in the frame as possible the rear pipe bolt will not come even close the silencer inlet tube is way to long and the mounting tabs are not close to fitting. Not having much fun so far!!!!!

Might have to fab up 2 small mounts to correct fitment issue, I bolted my SH FMF pipe onto the subframe first with about 1.75" aluminum mount than adjusted the motor accordingley and finished it by making a small mount connecting the rear silencer to the rear fender mount. I also trimmed the rear fender down so you can reach it with a wrench...Post some pics of the bike