New too site first question.Bar risers

[bigdan]

HI my names Dan great site with great info.I used too have a 94 kx500 but sold it looking too get another now.I'm 6'6" tall.I just looked thru some other posts about handle bars.I'm looking too put standard aluminum or protaper style bars on but would like too raise and push forward the riser.I read one about a modded cr80 mount?Maybe some one could give me more info?Or does someone know of some one that makes new mounts.Would also not mind getting ride of the rubber in the mounts.Thanks for any info.Dan

Sorry also if anybody had info on someone that makes a taller seat foam and cover like 1-2 inchs taller.If no companys do is it hard too do your self and have a cover made?Thanks again.

[Paul]

Welcome bigdan, Rick is the guy that can answer this properly. He also is in the 6'6" range and has his bike scienced out for the tall rider.

[toddwunsch]

Hey Dan.  I just replaced my bars and clamps with Pro Taper.  I did that because I wanted to use my Scott's dampner from my 4-stroke and put it on my 2-stroke.  I called the guys at Scotts and they are very helpful.  They have every Pro-Taper bar imaginable and several clamp offsets you could want using the stock triple clamps.  Of course, you could spring for the adjustable, rubber mounted, late model Pro Circuit top triple clamp which would give you more offset options, but if you want to run a dampner, you're somewhat limited on where the bars sit from front to rear.  But they have every other bar imaginable for height.  I purchased the CR-HI bar and used the Scott's lower bar clamp with the top billet clamp the fits the dampner.  The bars are a little bit higher and the offset is a bit more forward.  Give them a look.  www.scottsonline.com

[mikesmith]

Answer makes a top mount for there Pro Taper bars that has a lot of front to rear adjustment and can be run with or without rubber mounts.

[sdkx500]

Im 6'4 bought kx high protapers and went with a mount from http://dh1racing.com/ It allows the bars forward and believe they have a raised mount.  Mounts also accept scotts damper.

[bigdan]

Thanks for the info i'll start looking at those sites and make some calls.

[Rick]

Sorry to get in on this post late, but I've been busy getting the motors in both the 500 and 125 freshend up for the National Hare & Hound on Sunday.  

I used a set of Pro Taper bolt on bar towers from a CR80 that I had laying around, as they are taller by a full 1 inch.  The bar towers originally mounted with two small bolts on the bottom of the tower, so all I had to do was drill/tap one really big offset hole.  I believe I tapped for 7/16", and just ran the bolt through the stock rubber mounts.

Now, you have to realize that I'm cheap, and have even made the chain guide on both bikes.  My phylosophy is that if I can make it, I won't buy it.  However, I believe there are couple of companies offering taller towers, DH1racing being one of them.  
I also increase the height of my seat so my legs were not bent beyond the 90 degree point when I am sitting.  To do this, I purchased new 1/2 taller seat foam from CEET, and then glued/shaped my stock seat foam on top.  Added between 2 & 2 1/2 inches.  I was even able to heat and stretch my original black seat cover over the new taller seat.  Even after more than 2 years of riding, still have that same stock seat cover.  Tough, tough, tough.  As a note, most good upholstery shops can make and cover new seat foam for you for about $35.  Turns out it would have been cheaper than buying the taller seat foam from CEET.


Rick

[bigdan]

Thanks for the info Rick.I'll think i'll just take the seat too a upholsterer seems cheaper.I like too make my own stuff also i was thinking of just making my own bar risers doesn't seem very hard.Thanks for the info.

Another question for you Rick.I'm sure you run a stabilizer i want too run a scotts.Do you have any problems with running one with the bar risers being a inch higher.THanks Again

[Rick]

Well, now that's an interesting question.  While I use the Scott's dampener, I make my own pin support.  I use a 1/2 inch grade 5 bolt (cut the threads off and just use the bar stock) and center drill it with a 5/16 drill.  You really need a drill press to center drill, and I made a little jig out of a section of 1 inch angle iron with a small piece of 1/2x1 welded on the side that I can clamp in the milling vise.  It's tough to visualize, but the 1/2 bolt section is clamped into the angle iron with vice grips and then the angle iron is clamped in the vice with the little tab that is welded on the edge.  This jig holds the 1/2 bolt section in a straight line with the drill bit, so I get a straight hole.  

With that all said, if you do not have access to a drill press, visit your local machine shop and have them bore a hole for a few bucks.  It should take them just a few minutes, so should be cheap.  Either way, you get your pin holder.  The length and hole deptgh will have to be determined after you install your higher towers, but is not critical.

Once your pin holder is complete, purchase a grade 8 - 5/16 (or comporable metric) bolt with a good section that is unthreaded.  This will become your pin.  Cut off the head and threads, and carefully flatten the bolt on each side with a grinder so it fits in the arm of the dampener.  Your pin should not be more than 2 inches long at most, and better to be a little shorter.  Also, you will have to weld on your custom pin holder, but is a snap with either a wire feed or a stick welder (tougher with a stick, so the guy welding has to be good).

As a final note, I used to weld on gussets at the bottom of the pin holder, but found that they are not really required, and ahve never had a pin holder bend.  

If I have been too confusing, let me know and I'll try again.

Rick

[mikesmith]

Thats a good idea,saves a few bucks on the Scott set up to,thanks!

[mikesmith]

Do you make your own mount for the dampner,or buy one?

[Rick]

If we are talking about the top mount for the handlebars, I purchase these.  I made one once, but was not very happy with the results.  Also, once you purchase one, you'll have it forever.

Rick

[bigdan]

Thanks for the info.It all makes perfect sence.I have drill press so center drilling the 1/2 bolt should be easy enough.I just thought i'de ask you because scotts site expresses concern about having a pin that is too long and this would over come this problem.

I have a wirefeed for welding are the frames on these kawis just mild steel?

really liking this site every one seems knowlegable and friendly.I visit a lot of 4x4 sites and the same can't be said all the time.THANKS

[mikesmith]

I MIG welded my pin mount for the Scotts set up,I always worry about frying the electrics on my bike so I disconnect them first.

[Rick]

Yup, MIG or stick.  I have actually used a stick welder with 7014 1/8" rod on low voltage with great results before I was able to purchase a MIG.  The only problem with a stick welder is you better be a pretty darn good welder.  I've fixed welds for folks in the past who "thought" they had they had the skills.  The frame is not very thick, so be realistic about your welding skills before you start.

I also agree about this site being really positive.  I have abandoned all other sites except Destry's site because of the childish posts.  I really don't have time to waste on silliness, so this is my site of choice.  Informative and friendly.

Rick