Author Topic: Silencer Repacking  (Read 3999 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline blueoval

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 303
Silencer Repacking
« on: January 06, 2010, 04:36:17 PM »
How in the heck do I get this apart?  Any suggestions would be welcomed.  thx   
If some is good, and more is better, then too much is JUST RIGHT!  B.O.

Offline RM_Rider14

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 75
  • RS4
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2010, 05:10:22 PM »
PB Blaster etc. around the ends.  Grab (with pliers wrapped in a cloth) the tip and pull while holding the rest of the housing.  You'll have to wiggle it a bit too.  This is assuming you already removed the nuts/rivets.  Can't tell in that pic'.
Silly Rabbit, tricks are for hookers.

Offline Friar-Tuck

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,827
  • \o/ Live Free or Die
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2010, 06:33:14 PM »
 :-D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNxKO18I-3I&feature=PlayList&p=05D78019F3186623&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=12
  This is a  lot faster than I could type!
  Not exactly the same, but you'll get the Idea.   
    Tuck\o/
"The Truth Has No Agenda"

Offline JustinSB

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 48
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2010, 06:53:21 PM »
Remove the bolts at the "entrance" end. Then place that end in a vice and pound the s**t out of the silencer body with a mallet.

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2010, 11:51:49 PM »
This may help you click the link. http://www.fmfracing.com/TechSupport/Repacking

Takes a minute or so for the video to load but worth the wait.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline blueoval

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 303
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2010, 04:02:16 AM »
Thanks for the responses.  Really appreciate all the help I have gotten on the site.   ted
If some is good, and more is better, then too much is JUST RIGHT!  B.O.

Offline blueoval

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 303
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2010, 01:23:31 PM »
Need more help.  Maybe I am just slow today.  This is a pic of the inlet.  That piece came right out.  I can see the core inside with all the ugly packing around it.  The "outlet" end won't budge one bit.  All the rivets and bolts are out.  Any suggestions.  I looked at the video and it's no help right now.     ted
If some is good, and more is better, then too much is JUST RIGHT!  B.O.

Offline blueoval

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 303
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2010, 01:25:38 PM »
inlet
If some is good, and more is better, then too much is JUST RIGHT!  B.O.

Offline DoldGuy

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,198
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2010, 01:42:02 PM »
B.O.,
The silencer core should be attached to the "Inlet Pipe" and come out with it.
Its Never too Late to Have a Happy Childhood!

Offline blueoval

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 303
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2010, 02:10:43 PM »
It sort of was attached, but it came out the outlet and another "pipe" came out the inlet.  Oh well, it's completely apart now.  thanks
If some is good, and more is better, then too much is JUST RIGHT!  B.O.

Offline Polar-Bus

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,023
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2010, 02:35:52 PM »
It sort of was attached, but it came out the outlet and another "pipe" came out the inlet.  Oh well, it's completely apart now.  thanks

You don't need to remove both ends, usually just the inlet. Next repack, spray some PB blaster around the cap to soften up the baked carbon. Use some propane heat around the aluminum body, and the core assembly should be easier to remove.

tip #1) wrap the glass packing as tight as possible, then wrap masking tape around the wrapped packing and jam the core into the body.
01' KX500
'84 GPz1100
'87 GSX-R  750
'06 HD Fatboy
'73 Kawi H1
'03 CRG KX500 Shifter kart

Offline TheGDog

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 177
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2010, 04:18:00 PM »
Remove the bolts at the "entrance" end. Then place that end in a vice and pound the s**t out of the silencer body with a mallet.

MAN... you are NOT KIDDING!  I just got finished taking mine off.  I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing it like I did.  I used a Rubber Mallot and had to smack a screwdriver all around the edge of the canister where it meets the insert.  Doing this definitely uglied-up the aluminum something fierce.  But in my case it seemed like the only thing that would work and removing that dang inlet. There's really no good way to grab that thing.

Can anyone tell me a trick for when I put this sucker back together that will make it more easy to pull back out of the canister body the next dang time I have to re-pack?

I assume I'm supposed to put high-temp silicone all around the edge of the inlet where it meets-up with the canister... but I'm wondering if that's really even needed?  I was kinda contemplating maybe even putting a thick grease around it's edge to help ensure I can get the dang thing off next time.  Would this be all that bad of a thing to do?
'97 PC800 + '96 KX 500 + '90 KDX 200 + 2000 XR50R (for the lil guy!)

Offline mwalker04

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 35
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2010, 11:32:24 AM »

Offline flyingfitz

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
Re: Silencer Repacking
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2010, 11:41:57 AM »
Definately use the high temp RTV.  Put some in the threads of the keeper screws too.  I used aluminum pop rivets to install the turbine section.  If I do it again, I would use regular rivets.  The aluminum ones are already loose??

Fitz