trying to write this again,
as for chains , buyers beware, there are several 520 size chains out there that are only rated for 125/250/300cc off-road, as this cc or larger on-road would meet or exceed the design limits.
what you must watch for is the tensile strength and wear life rating regardless of price, brandname or friends advise... many sites i've seen will show an in-depth chart of chain capabilities. for you guys who have bought a used bike or at the point of replacing the stocker, do your homework in this area.
i read above someone has said that a o/x-ring chain may be a bad thing in the sand., quite the opposite actually, the sand that bonds itself to the outer layer of grease has just increased the shielding layer against penetration. for almost 20 yrs now we have been using this practice in all our aircraft as directed in our tech manuals. o-rings and internal grease captured in pin reliefs are commonplace. as for non o-ring chains in sand or anywhere, is a no-go...they offer nothing but a cheap subsitute at best,and short lived. there is no barrier at all in these chains after the initial shipping grease is slung away.
small micro sand bits can and will get into the pin bore, get crushed even smaller and then be capable of getting into smaller places, super abrasive. this is the fastest way to wear something other then acid etching that i know of. we're dealing with higher pressures then most other bikes and so the minimum standard is higher as far as reliability go's.you there riding in loose sand will not stress a chain as someone who runs motard-street or hillclimbs.
the only downside to a ringed chain is it's drag and rolling resistance, but this is no issue on a 5 is it.? they are pricey, but they will last the life of the bike. lastly, pay attention to your chain free play. too tight a chain, even on a strong chain at that will stress the chain and fatigue a drive gear/s or elongate the bores..
have'nt you ever heard the guy who cracked his rear sprocket lugs by a too tight of chain, adjust your chain while the swingarm is in a true centerline thru the pivot and counter gear shaft., lastly an ATV chain in 520 size is completely different size, (atv specific) it will fit in the teeth pattern but is much wider and taller then a motorcycle 0 link, not a good choice for our 5's, it may hit your countershaft housing,deflector plate and the nylon guide that cradles your rear gear.. mine did-previous owner. atv chains require this additional mass due to their tires having such a large footprint on the ground, 2 contact patches biting., it takes more to spin them, torque-wise.
be sure to spray and wash the chain at the end of your day, lubing the rings and rollers, white lit grease is great for the rollers, but you need a thinner type of chain lube to keep the o-rings moist, imagine a dry wiper blade on your windshield vrs a wet one wiping. also helping to avoid drying the rings out.your ready for next weekend.
** know the chains design limits before you swipe your card....i've learned from the many charts that for our bike it needs to be at 8,100 lbs or greater.
my local dealer was trying to sell me a sweet looking gold rk chain 120 links for $118, i told him i'd be back, went home , did the research on that very chain by part number and found it to be rated for 250/300cc off-road only...so, i found and now own a did-vm, gold, x-ring 120 link, for $68 online, rated at 750cc street, no clearance issues at the counter shaft at all. thanks and enjoy, jdv, pics pg-6
