Rebuilding 5 hunny ???s

[Rick]

I think you'll have to go to a motorcycle shop.  Don't think any auto parts stores will carry.  However, if you find it at an auto parts store, let us know which one...we might all be able to save some money.

Rick

[kawdude]

Still rebuilding...
Anyone know if there KX has a spacer washer under the kickstarter idler and or on the opposite end of the output shaft.  I putting this beast back together and have two very thin spacer washer leftover.  These washers can only fit on a limited number of shafts. I thought the one went on the idler gear but with the circlip in place the gear is too tight.  Parts diagram on Kaw website doesn't show either but I know they were there.

[mikesmith]

This is kind of a hard thing to descrbe,or know if were talking about the same thing.But It's circlip,washer,idle gear,washer,hope this helps or someone else can help.

[kawdude]

It's circlip,washer,idle gear,washer

Excellent description.  I understand perfectly but that's not how mine is or was and it doesn't show that on the Kaw website.  Mine (94) was (outside in)...circlip, gear, washer, circlip, bearing.  At least I think there was a washer there.  I'm almost sure.  I replaced the bearing and the circlip and now if I use the washer the circlip makes the gear too tight.  The problem is if the shaft has any movement when the the cases are together the gear will rub the case.  If I push against the output from left to right there isn't a problem.  That shaft has a another very thin washer on the output side of the shaft against the bearing.  None of which is shown on the Kaw website.

[mikesmith]

Well Im not sure what to say,I know its to late now,but pictures or video during dissasembly are helpfull at times like this.

[kawdude]

good point!

[kawdude]

All,
Putting the cases back together and after I tightened the bolts the tranny is bound up.  Loosen the bolts it turns freely and shifts.  Any ideas??? I goint to attempt to remove the spacer I spoke of before but I'm sure it was there when the engine split/

[kawdude]

Took apart the lower end and reassembled it.  Tranny is fine(turns) but haven't tried to shift it yet.  I notice that the crank turns tightly and I believe I read that I need to center the crank by beating on the ends.  Is this right?  How hard can I wack it?

Here are Rick's instructions...

7-Once the cases are together, use a dead blow hammer to relieve the crank by tapping once or twice on the flywheel end of the crank. If you try and turn the crank before you do this, you will find it turns very hard. Afterwards, it turns easily. Also, check the distance between each crank half and the bearing with a feeler gauge. I try and get the crank centered, with even distance on each side. Not sure if this is that important, but it would seem to be a prudent step. You will probably find the crank is not centered. You can move the crank just slightly with your case splitting tool by just pushing on the proper end of the crank with a little pressure. Releive the crank after centering and recheck the distance.

[Pinchy]

Does any one have the service limits of the crank and piston/cylinder handy?

Ive got the suplemental service manual and most of what it talks about is service of the suspensionm and doesnt give any limits of engine components.

Right now Im wondering if my big end clearance is ok.
Ive got about .018" of side clearance on the big end
and cant really see any on the vertical play.

My old yz490 manual says .020 for it, I dunno if that would be close for a kx500 tho.

[Rick]

Hmmm, never owned a manual, so can't help there.

As for "...beating on the ends (of the crank)...", I think I meant to say TAP on the end with a dead blow hammer.  Oh, wait, that's what I did say...

Seriously, it only takes a couple of smacks to relieve the crank.  As long as the hammer material is softer than the crank material, you should not damage the end of the crank.

As for tranny bind, you need to be careful to get the sifter hub in the case bearing straight or you will crack your shifter hub when you tighten the cases together.  This would also cause the tranny to bind when you tried to manually operate.  

Hopefully, you have found the problem by the time you read this post...

Rick

[kawdude]

I removed the spacer that I placed on the output shaft and then reassembled.  No bind now.  The shifter hub is an excellent suggestion though.  I assumed that this was the problem since only the output shaft was tight and not the clutch shaft.

[gowen]

Tranny issues! Yuck! I've rebuilt the tranny in a old '86 YZ250 I had awhile back and in a CR250 I currently have and I am sooo sick of them. Binding and just small things. When I had to have the KX rebuilt, I just sent the entire engine to E-Gorr. BTW, have you gotten your parts back from him? Just curious.

[kawdude]

No haven't gotten them back.  Got a post in dr stating it's taking longer because I needed some welding.  Cracks in intake and exhaust ports.  Great...  The bottem end is together and doesn't appear to have any issues.  We'll see.  After you had your work done how did it effect the jetting.  Did you start with the stock jetting for break in?

[gowen]

Hey Kawdude, I kept the stock needle and moved to the recommend jet in the jet chart that used to be at the first page of this website for sea level and the stock pilot. Perfect brown plugs so far. I mixed 32:1 for the break in and now am running 40:1 I am too scared to try 50:1 yet.

and yes, it made a huge diffrence in power! But, as from before-after. Yes, it caused the mid to be quite off jetting. But that is why I changed from the needle that I was running to the recommended one. I don't even remember what I was running. But it helped. Thanks to whoever put the chart there.

[gowen]

Oh yeah, when I sent my entire engine to Egorr he had to weld the tranny together cause of a crack in it too. I guess it is pretty standard.