Author Topic: Getting my KX 500  (Read 10779 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Larry Gude

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
Getting my KX 500
« on: January 26, 2009, 09:35:58 PM »
Hi folks,

I'm sure this has been covered numerous times but, I'm betting folks around here won't mind at all covering it again!

As I understand it, the KX's are now extinct as a new machine, all having gone to 4 stroke. Correct?

So, please steer me in the general direction of what year(s) to look at as 'good' years to buy, ie, less cantankerous, more reliable, etc. Much of my riding will be more trail oriented, lots of daily short rides as opposed to having to wait for the weekends and then go all day, though that'll happen some, too. There will be some MX in my future, not competitive, but shooting to be able to get around the track competently and safely to myself and other riders.

I'm not a guy who wants to spend lots and lots of time tinkering with the bike. I wanna ride! So, if a 2 stroke simply needs more attention than I'm inclined to, maybe the KX isn't for me? I don't like that idea, but I do want to be informed and eyes open to what I'm looking at here.

Anyway, I'd appreciate all comments and thoughts!

Thanks

Offline martinfan30

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 456
  • 2000 KX500
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2009, 12:29:03 AM »
Hi folks,

I'm sure this has been covered numerous times but, I'm betting folks around here won't mind at all covering it again!

As I understand it, the KX's are now extinct as a new machine, all having gone to 4 stroke. Correct?

So, please steer me in the general direction of what year(s) to look at as 'good' years to buy, ie, less cantankerous, more reliable, etc. Much of my riding will be more trail oriented, lots of daily short rides as opposed to having to wait for the weekends and then go all day, though that'll happen some, too. There will be some MX in my future, not competitive, but shooting to be able to get around the track competently and safely to myself and other riders.

I'm not a guy who wants to spend lots and lots of time tinkering with the bike. I wanna ride! So, if a 2 stroke simply needs more attention than I'm inclined to, maybe the KX isn't for me? I don't like that idea, but I do want to be informed and eyes open to what I'm looking at here.

Anyway, I'd appreciate all comments and thoughts!

Thanks

Well I just brought home my first KX5 last night. A 2000. I'm in love! I have found on here that 97 was a fork update. So after that is what I looked for.

I also understand that the 03 and 04's were redstickered. Meaning only can be ridden from like Oct. to Apr. depending on location. If you are in Cali.
2000 KX500
2005 XR650L

Neither are stock, and both are great desert bikes.

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2009, 12:34:47 AM »
From the subject it appears that your looking at getting a KX500. Most of these bikes will require some work due to the last production year being 2004. With that being said you might able to find one of those rare kx500's that has never been ridin or very low hrs. If you search will find later models that have been very well cared for. When buying used always try to buy the newest model you can and best condition, but the kx500 hasn't changed much at all, so a 97 model could be better shape and condition then an 04 model just depends.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2009, 12:36:04 AM »
Sorry, we posted at the same time,
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline Larry Gude

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2009, 09:33:04 PM »
 [/quote]

Well I just brought home my first KX5 last night. A 2000. I'm in love! I have found on here that 97 was a fork update. So after that is what I looked for.

I also understand that the 03 and 04's were redstickered. Meaning only can be ridden from like Oct. to Apr. depending on location. If you are in Cali.
[/quote]

Would you mind giving me a run down of what else you were looking at that helped you pick this particular one?

Thanks!

Offline KX500freak

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,028
  • KX500 - Have a Wheelie good weekend
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2009, 08:23:27 AM »
to give a few tips ,

check for excessive wear on the subframe ,chainwear to be exact.
check pipe mount and mounts ,they reveal crashes ,flipovers often
check crankbearing freeplay ,if the owner has no prob.with that check.
check steering /wheel/unitrak bearings
check allingment ,if the bike is true ,not warped
check for escessive overall wear on things like the kicker ,shift pedal sitting tight

Dutch Team Green 91-94-01 KX500

Offline Larry Gude

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2009, 08:17:31 AM »
Comments, please:

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/mcy/1013619314.html

Quote
  have an 02 kx500 lots of extras like full fmf pipe with dyno jet kit renthal bars msr levers k an n filter fresh tires fresh topend have invoice to prove it has about 25 hours on new sleeve wisco piston an rings v force reeds new fork seals rear is sprung or 200 pound rider very very clean an very very very very fast it will wheelie in every gear with no clutch never its never been wrecked an runs very strong an is very clean always stored inside email for more pics oh an the pics were not taken in 06 my camera is just screwed up

Thanks

Offline k5for-life

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • its not what you ride its that you ride thats all
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2009, 08:21:10 AM »
get a k5 theres nothing like a 500 of the trails
in thee begining man become of the dirt and in thee end he shall return to the dirt in the mean time we shall give him a kx500 and the dirt shall be his play ground

Offline GDubb

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 434
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2009, 09:26:44 AM »
I would say NO on that one if the cylinder is sleeved, on that aspect alone. You should be able to find a nicer one without a sleeved cylinder for less than $3500 especially in todays economy. He also states that it has never been wrecked... If it hasnt been ridden hard enough to wreck then why would the engine be so worn as to need a sleeve job? Just my thoughts.


-G
Rock it 'til the wheels fall off!

"It's not what you ride... It's who you're riding for!" - www.mxrevelation.com -

Offline Larry Gude

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2009, 12:51:03 PM »
I would say NO on that one if the cylinder is sleeved, on that aspect alone. You should be able to find a nicer one without a sleeved cylinder for less than $3500 especially in todays economy. He also states that it has never been wrecked... If it hasnt been ridden hard enough to wreck then why would the engine be so worn as to need a sleeve job? Just my thoughts.


-G


So, what's that mean, 'new sleeved'?

Offline DoldGuy

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,198
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2009, 01:03:59 PM »
Larry,

I am not far from the Craigslist Ad you have posted and know there are MUCH better deals to be had then that.

As GDubb mentioned if the cylinder has been sleeved (I prefer the Coated Bores) it had to have been run with straight gas (no oil mixed) or hung a ring in a port or lost a crank or etc.etc.etc.

A sleeved cylinder has the original Nikasil coating removed and has a cast iron liner installed, which can be bored, but will be worn much faster then the coated cylinders. If you are trying to locate a K5, and are serious, let me know and I will keep my eyes on the look out.
Its Never too Late to Have a Happy Childhood!

Offline GDubb

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 434
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2009, 05:50:55 PM »
As DoldGuy stated, it basically means serious damage was done to the factory cylinder and could not be easily repaired so they bore out the cylinder and put a cast iron sleeve in to refurbish the cylinder.

Sleeve....




-G
Rock it 'til the wheels fall off!

"It's not what you ride... It's who you're riding for!" - www.mxrevelation.com -

Offline Larry Gude

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2009, 11:12:19 PM »
D and G,

Thanks.

OK, so the cylinder itself is prohibitive to replace in order to get it back to 'new'?

And an older KX with a sleeved cylinder is NOT normal?

Doldguy, I'd jump on a great deal now, probably go for a 'good' deal, but not in a 'must have right now' frame of mind. So, thanks!

FWIW, I'm 6' 2", 260 if that matters at all.

KXfreak, what does it mean to check crankbearing free play?

Thanks, all.

Offline Friar-Tuck

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,827
  • \o/ Live Free or Die
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #13 on: January 31, 2009, 05:09:01 AM »
 Larry, here's a link on Nikasil,(electrodeposited oleophilic nickel matrix Silicon Carbide coating  :-) )
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil
   It's alot cheaper to bore and add a liner the cyl. as apposed to re-Nikasil (re-plate)
 To check endplay/ worn bearings. 
    Warm up the engine.     Switch off the engine.      Remove the left side cover  (the flywheel sits behind).
   Grab hold of the flywheel and very firmly try and move it up and down and front to back.
    Feel for any slight movement or clicking.  (service limit is 0-0.10mm or 0-0.004")  not much...
  If you feel any thing excessive the crank needs a re-build (since the generator is bolted to the end of the crank)
    * Using a dial indicator and comparing reading changes with manual specified end float and radial movement tolerances will give a more accurate idea of the significance of any play found.
    * If there is no movement it doesn't mean the crank is healthy,just that it's not really worn.
    * This is more a test to see if the crank is bad rather than a test to see if it's good.
 Stewart has a link on the subject of crank being "Out of Clock"

Swingarm,  put the bike on a stand (rear wheel off the ground)  facing either the side of the bike firmly grab hold of the swingarm and  push/pull back and forth.  Look at the movement at the shock linkage and engine/ swingarm mount.
   Before leaving the side grab the wheel and try "Twisting" back and forth This will give you an Idea of both the wheel bearings and the condition of the spokes.
Go to the back of the bike, grab the swingarmand lift-up and down.  Check  the linkeage & shock bearings.
  While the rear end is up off the ground give the rear wheel a spin look for wobble (runout) in rim & sprocket.
  Is the chain really riding on the center of the sprocket?
Look closely at the rollers on the chain is it centered or is it favoring a sideplate. and condition of both sprockets.

Have someone hold the rear wheel down and get the front wheel off the ground. give her a whirl.  Look for runout, (rim and brake disk)  condition of brakes. grab the forks at the bottoms near the axel, push/pull towards bike this will give you an Idea of steering stem bearings.  Have someone hold the handlebars and "twist" the front wheel to check bearings and spokes.
  Whew...
 The bearings in the suspension and wheels aren't too awfully expensive,however the can be a challenge to replace.
crank bearings...well they are not overly expensive but the process is...
  Shock / fork re-build kits are not too bad, but again the process..

  Hang in there,
  Tuck\o/


"The Truth Has No Agenda"

Offline KX500freak

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,028
  • KX500 - Have a Wheelie good weekend
Re: Getting my KX 500
« Reply #14 on: January 31, 2009, 06:52:14 AM »



KXfreak, what does it mean to check crankbearing free play?



i couldn,t be more specific then how friar-tuck stated it 8-) 
filtered the crankstory out so its maybe a bit more clear-reading



 To check endplay/ worn bearings. 
    Warm up the engine.     Switch off the engine.      Remove the left side cover  (the flywheel sits behind).
   Grab hold of the flywheel and very firmly try and move it up and down and front to back.
    Feel for any slight movement or clicking.  (service limit is 0-0.10mm or 0-0.004")  not much...
  If you feel any thing excessive the crank needs a re-build (since the generator is bolted to the end of the crank)
    * Using a dial indicator and comparing reading changes with manual specified end float and radial movement tolerances will give a more accurate idea of the significance of any play found.
    * If there is no movement it doesn't mean the crank is healthy,just that it's not really worn.
    * This is more a test to see if the crank is bad rather than a test to see if it's good.
 Stewart has a link on the subject of crank being "Out of Clock"


  Hang in there,
  Tuck\o/



Dutch Team Green 91-94-01 KX500