Zip Ty K5 chain adjuster kit

[Hick]

Has anyone out there used the Zip Ty chain adjuster kit. Im thinking about getting one, but was looking for reviews on installations and performance.  I was also looking for the same on the Zip Ty Rear wheel spacers they are said to stay on the tire during tire changes.

[jfabmotorsports.com]

Check out Danger's photos....I'm sure he will reply.

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,4784.15.html

[kawsf]

I have a set on my kx500 and my crf450.They work great,well worth the money.

[kxpegger]

The first picture is how Suzuki does it. The second picture is what can happen because of how Suzuki does it! The third picture is how Honda does it. Zip Ty's design is like Suzuki's. One of the better chain block adjusters is made by Works Connection or find something similar to Honda's design.







I own a set of Zip Ty's but decided not to use them because the axle flat to capture point on the adjuster was a very sloppy tolerance and would probably tear out like the Zook OEM's.

[KXcam22]

KXpegger,
  Can you explain for me a bit more how that failure happened.  How did the nut break like that? Thanks. Cam.

[kxpegger]

KXpegger,
  Can you explain for me a bit more how that failure happened.  How did the nut break like that? Thanks. Cam.

What happened was partly my fault. I loosened the chain block adjuster bolts then tried to loosen the axle nut. The chain adjuster bolt provides back up against the chain block adjuster to keep the axle flats from rotating and gouging out the chain block adjuster. I tried various methods to keep the axle from rotating while trying to remove the axle nut but I ended up having to use a Dremel to cut the nut then spread it with a chisel to get the axle out.

With the Honda or similar design this won't happen because two flats of the axle are captured in the chain block adjuster in two places and then backed by the swingarm in two places not the chain block adjuster bolt. My KX500AF/450F uses the same design as Suzuki. I've got some Works Connection chain block adjusters on the way for the AF.

[Danger4u2]

The thing I like about the Zip Ty ,  the blocks stay on the bike when you remove the axle.  If you look at the block on the right you can see where the bolt goes into the block.  The slot is where the c- clip goes in and around the bolt to retain it in the block.  When removing the axle there is no need to undo the chain adjusting bolts.  The set I bought for KX500AF (KX450F chassis) has plastic pulls.  The set I bought for the 2004 K5 years ago are made of aluminum. The front pull is great for the front axle on the KX450F but not needed on the KX500 because the axle is removed with the wheel from the forks.
The small rounded aluminum part (axle guide) fits into the nut end of the axle to help center the axle when you stab it into the hub.  I used a little silicone to help keep it in the axle.  It's a tight fit but the silicone makes sure it stays.  The alum. cone goes in past the cotter key holes so I drilled mine.  Obviously you can no longer use a triangle kick stand on right side if you use the axle guide.

One thing to mention.  The kit comes with a roll pin so you can pin the axle block to the shark fin/brake caliper carrier.
DON'T do that. 
The brake caliper carrier must be removed from the swing arm when removing the wheel because the knobbie tire will not clear the brake caliper.

KXpegger do you use a torque wrench?  I always use a torque wrench when I'm at the comfort of my truck or shop.
It's real easy to over torque the axle nut.

[Danger4u2]

I went and looked at the Works Connection blocks and they do have two flat spots to lock in the end of the axle.  Stronger than the Zip Ty and the stock blocks.  Unlike the Zip Ty blocks they come off with the axle.
http://www.worksconnection.com/store/product.html?prod_id=6159

[Hick]

Thanks for the input I just got ordered them sounds like a solid product! How was they installation?

[Danger4u2]

Very easy, the pull locks into the hollow of the axle like a bicycle goose neck.  There's a left and a right axle block.  The right block has a rounded area to accommodate a socket or end wrench on the axle nut.

[kxpegger]

The thing I like about the Zip Ty ,  the blocks stay on the bike when you remove the axle.  If you look at the block on the right you can see where the bolt goes into the block.  The slot is where the c- clip goes in and around the bolt to retain it in the block.  When removing the axle there is no need to undo the chain adjusting bolts.  The set I bought for KX500AF (KX450F chassis) has plastic pulls.  The set I bought for the 2004 K5 years ago are made of aluminum. The front pull is great for the front axle on the KX450F but not needed on the KX500 because the axle is removed with the wheel from the forks.
The small rounded aluminum part (axle guide) fits into the nut end of the axle to help center the axle when you stab it into the hub.  I used a little silicone to help keep it in the axle.  It's a tight fit but the silicone makes sure it stays.  The alum. cone goes in past the cotter key holes so I drilled mine.  Obviously you can no longer use a triangle kick stand on right side if you use the axle guide.

One thing to mention.  The kit comes with a roll pin so you can pin the axle block to the shark fin/brake caliper carrier.
DON'T do that. 
The brake caliper carrier must be removed from the swing arm when removing the wheel because the knobbie tire will not clear the brake caliper.

KXpegger do you use a torque wrench?  I always use a torque wrench when I'm at the comfort of my truck or shop.
It's real easy to over torque the axle nut.

I always use a torque wrench even in the field. I even have a Fasst spoke torque wrench kit. I torque my Zook axles 10 lbs less than what the book says. I noticed at 75 lbs the threads were starting to gall even with anti-sieze. My son's Honda manual states 90 lbs! I know that's gotta be a misprint. No way in hell I'm going to tighten an axle nut to 90! The threads on my Zooks axle quit taking a beating at 65 lbs and I'm sure there's plenty of pre-load on the hub and wheel spacers. The Zooks use a self-locking nut vice cotter pin so I don't have to over/under tighten the axle nut to line up the cotter pin holes like my AF. I'm going to see if the Zook axle nut will fit the Kawi and delete the whole cotter pin thing it if I can.

[Danger4u2]

Sorry about the simplistic question.  Until we get to know a member a little better we don't know what mechanical/riding skills you have.  Sounds like you've got it together.  I don't have spoke torque wrench.  Are you like Norm on "This Old House", every tool in the world?  I use the lock nut type nut on my KLR.  It seems to eat on the threads a little each time I remove and reinstall.

[GDubb]

Where can one find torque specs for the K5's? Specifically the axle and the swingarm pivot but it wouldnt hurt to know the specs for any other part that is frequently removed or adjusted. I know the obvious answer would be a manual... but I cant see spending perfectly good beer money on that.  Anyone find a .pdf yet?


-G