Author Topic: Clutch Change  (Read 6275 times)

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Offline stock500

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Clutch Change
« on: May 06, 2008, 05:07:52 AM »
I have never had to replace a clutch on any of my older bikes, but I think my 2004 500 is in need of a clutch.  The clutch is not slipping when I accelerate, but the shifting seems to be a little more harsh, and I just changed the oil.  When I pull the clutch in and I am just coasting to a stop, as I downshift the rpms jump a little bit each time.  Also when I am stopped and I put the bike in gear It almost kills on me because of the drag on the motor.  The clutch pull feels like there is plenty of room in the range for the clutch to engage fully.  What do you guys think. 

P.S.  If I replace the clutch should I get heavy duty springs?  My bike is bone stock.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2008, 08:20:56 AM by stock500 »
It's all in the wrist!  Save a tire, shift early!

Offline kxraptor

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2008, 10:35:51 AM »
I recently replaced my clutch [93' 500],and opted for the heavy duty springs.All works well but the heavy springs added about 25% more effort to the clutch pull.The replacement clutch I got was an EBC from Rocky Mountain[excellent service].

Texas Champ.

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2008, 11:52:58 PM »
Stock: You don't need a clutch you just need to adjust the one you have ....when you pull the cable it isn't moving far enough to disengage the clutch......screw the adjuster out at the clutch perch so it has about 3-4.. between the lever and perch at the widest point of the gap....if there isn't enough adjustment room there  you'll have back the adjuster in, then go down to the cable adjuster on the motor and get some more cable tension there (not too much) but to where you can finish the adjustment at the clutch lever......that way it gives you a place to adjust it without needing tools

Raptor : By an "EZ-PULL" for your clutch...I got one and love it.........km

Offline hughes

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2008, 01:44:17 AM »
It's been awhile since I have been around the 500 but I don't remember any adjustment to made for the clutch cable down at the engine. Sounds like you clutch plates are sticking together, from a dead stop that would cause the bike to stall or even surge forward while holding in the clutch and shifting the engine into gear. Over heated clutch plates like to stick together.
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Offline Hillclimb#42

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2008, 02:58:26 AM »
There is the adjustment at the lever and another at the number plate.(Front Plate) You should have some play in it. It should not be tight to the perch. If you are tight to the perch with no adjustment then you need to replace the cable or clutch disks. I've found that mine needs to be a little tighter after warming up and that I always have a little drag when in gear. Thats why it is easier to start in neutral. IMO, you are not needing a new clutch, unless there is a bunch of hours on it. I don't quite get the downshifting issue, but it could be the k5-surge that is common to them all. Be sure not to overtighten clutch pivot bolt, also. It is backed up with a nut so you can have an easier clutch-pull.

Offline stock500

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2008, 03:35:56 AM »
I guess the best way to describe the downshifting issue is this.  When I am down shifting it feels like I don't even have the clutch pulled in.  I will check the cable adjustment, and the perch adjustment tonight when I get home.  Thanks for the advice.  I might just be over cautious.  I am the second owner of the bike, and the original owner barly rubbed the paint off the frame with his boots.  I have not been on the bike much yet either, so I thought it would be early for a clutch to go out.  I never race, and almost never slip the clutch, and I use pro honda gear oil.  Last night when I was riding around my field I could stop in 1st gear and my bike would idle, and not want to creep forward.  If I need to change the clutch is that a pretty easy job?  I am somewhat handy.
It's all in the wrist!  Save a tire, shift early!

Offline KXcam22

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2008, 04:06:19 AM »
Stock,
  Changing a clutch is easy. My DP clutch had stiffer springs but I also extended the actuation arm 8mm so the overall pull was much less than stock.  You might want to take it appart and have a look anyway. Generally a worn out clutch will slip, but it is also possible to break a friction plate causing it to drag.  As hughes said an overheated clutch can have the plates stick together.  Take it apart and have a look.  Cam.

Offline stock500

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2008, 04:39:19 AM »
Cam, what did you use to extend the arm on your clutch?  You are talking about the arm down on the engine right.
It's all in the wrist!  Save a tire, shift early!

Offline maddoggy

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2008, 04:52:34 AM »
stock500, i had the same thing happen to my k5. I was riding on the west slope of the bighorn mountains and i started to notice that the clutch seemed to be fading fast, not slipping but it just didn't seem to want to disengage all the way. the funny thing is that i couldn't feel a change in the clutch pull or any loosness at the lever. so i rode back to the truck to have access to tools, and i found that the adjustment locknut at the lever had backed off and the cable was loosening all on its own. like i said, i could not feel a difference at the lever. my actuation arm has been lengthened as cam suggested and it really makes a noticable improvement to the ctutch pull.  MADDOGGY

Offline stock500

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2008, 05:01:47 AM »
Can you buy a new arm that is longer, or do you have to make one?
It's all in the wrist!  Save a tire, shift early!

Offline maddoggy

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2008, 05:22:09 AM »
as far as i know the "release" as kawi calls them  is only available as OEM. my arm was already modified when i got the bike. if you're handy in the shop then you could remove the arm assembly from the case and do the mod on the bench. i think it would be pretty hard to do if it were still on the engine, though not impossible.  MADDOGGY

Offline kxraptor

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2008, 06:23:17 AM »
I'm kinda new to the KX ,,,whats an "e-z pull",,,?Where to buy?

Offline Hillclimb#42

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2008, 06:14:12 AM »
 I have an E-Z pull. Its in a tool box. It sucked for me. Wasn't much easier, and there's alot of slack in cable plus too much friction inside the part that has the leverage. Check that the pivot bolt is not overtightened. A Magura Hydraulic clutch is awesome. ($200) When you first pull on it, you will wonder if its even hooked up. Self adjusts and as smooth and easy as it will get. Look to replace clutches when you cannot get any slack at the perch or is slipping noticeably. Stay AWAY FROM SYNTHETICS DESIGNED FOR CARS AND TRUCKS. Teflon coating the plates will cause them to fail.

Offline KXcam22

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2008, 12:43:12 PM »
It was easy to extend the clutch arm.  I found some steel that was the same thickness and cut out an 8mm piece then cut the arm and welded the piece in.  You can go up to 10mm and maybe more with no issues.  Makes a huge difference.  I also rerouted my clutch cable but I am not convinced that it did much.  My clutch is easy to pull and the feel is quite a bit nicer than my new CRF. I may have some pics of the mod in my gallery. Cam.

Offline stock500

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Re: Clutch Change
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2008, 04:36:33 PM »
I think I will try extending my clutch arm this weekend.
It's all in the wrist!  Save a tire, shift early!