newbie questions

[TerMaaten KX500]

Hello. Just got a 1998 KX500 that's in great shape. i have a few extreme newbie questions.

1. the 76 down the street has 100oct race gas right out of the pump ( $7.65/gal)  Can i always do 2.5 gal 100 oct and 2.5 gal 91 oct in a 5 gal can?  if not, 2 gal 100, 4 gal 91? or 1 gal 100oct, 4 gal 91?

2. For gas and 2 Cycle Oil mixing, Is 32 to 1 necessary, or a good idea? i did it once and it seemed too 'smokey'. i've done 40 to 1 and it seems alright. Can i always do 40 to 1?

3. Can i use WD 40 on the chain? I've used it so far and it's really kickin ass. I've used about a can and a half and maybe 10 terry towels and it looks good now. I picked this tip up when i had a 2000 gsxr 750.

4. changin the spark plug. I should have just asked where i picked them up but, is there any special/specific techniques oder vormachen(tr. preperations)?  i got the OEM NGK and it's ready to go right in right?

5. After you turn the bike off, does it pay to turn off the gas knob off even if you're gonna ride in a few days?  If so, is it better turning it before you shut down?

6. there's no lower back fender flap -the mud guard attached to the back of the air box. I noticed that the shock spring was pretty caked again with crap after a few rides after i cleaned it once. Over time is this gonna deteriorate the rear shock (crap getting on the shaft).

7. Is there a clearly-best air filter element that i'm not aware of yet? or is a UNI good enough?

didn't plan on writing 5,6,7 just threw them in. i don't plan on ever selling this bike. i appreciate the time and insight.

[BDI]

WOW  your making my brain hurt, I'm going back to the garage to have another beer. O-yeah welcome to the site

[KXcam22]

1. Yes mixing the gas can let you reduce the octane to what you want.  I would suggest a 50/50 mix to get you to about 95 octane.  I run mine on pump 92 with great results.

2. I am a lean ratio guy.  I got 400 hours on mine at 60:1 using belray MC1.  Pick a quality SYNTHETIC brand name oil and mix it 50:1.  Less oil also means less heat.  Keeping the airfilter clean also helps longevity.

3.  WD40 is great for cleaning a chain but I personally don't use it for riding (some do).  I stick to a name brand and get excellent chain life.  Others swear by WD40 on the chain. I use Maxima crystal clear or Belray clean (white).  Both of these trap dirt on the surface of the chain which you can then wire brush off.

4. Gap your plug to 0.028". Even new ones need to be gapped.  I run a cheap BPR8ES (projected nose - not stock) and get a whole season.  The iridium  BR8EIX is supposed to be excellent (I haven't tried it).  Best plug supplier is an automotive parts wholesaler.  They stock most plugs for cheap, or you can order them.

5.  Always turn your gas petcock off - it is a good practise.  If it wears (leaks) and if the bike is getting bounced around in the back of a truck, the engine cases can fill with gas (rare but happens). I turn mine off a few seconds before I stop if I get the chance. It doesn't really matter that much.

6. Get the flap right away or even make one. It protects the shock shaft from pits.

7. Uni filter is excellent.  The stock Kawasaki one is also very good.  I think all the filter brands are pretty good now days.  Always have two filters so you always have a clean one to put in.  I use the aerosol can spray filter oil.  A bit wastful but sooo easy to use.

Hope this helps. Cam.

[Hillclimb#42]

Welcome to the site Newbie  . Yeah, its fine to mix octanes. I run 44:1 with no troubles for years. I recommend synthetic 2 stroke oil, and stick with one brand. W D is not oil. It is actually corrosive. Run the bike for a few minutes to warm chain and clean it. Head back to the truck and use a chain lube. Or I usually spray the chain down right after I wash it. It is less messy if you lube chain by spraying the chain in the chain guide. I always use NGK B8ES. Don't forget to turn off gas. Like Cam is saying it can cause problems from bouncing around then flooding the bottom end. I also use the Uni air filter with No Toil.
 Sometimes a bike will foul plugs at start up, when the floats are out of adjustment. Its called cold fouling, I think. The easy cure is to run it low on gas by shutting off the petcock before you kill it. The right way is to set the floats to shut off sooner, but I think thats where that idea comes from.
 There's a bunch of good info here, especially the straight fender mod, jetting charts, tire dicussions, pipes, fuels, and even some for entertainment only. Check "Best 500 I've ever seen"
  Oh yeah, you need that mud flap. Rear shock repairs are not cheap.

[TerMaaten KX500]

Thanks for the replies.

Pick a quality SYNTHETIC brand name oil and mix it 50:1.  Less oil also means less heat.

I'll do that. I've read quite a few pages on different synthetics at www.bobistheoilguy.com for the car. i have a 02 bmw 530i and run the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 euro formula since the research. I'll try to get that belray MC1.

I'll start using chainlube.

The one thing i need more follow-up on is the spark plug business. Is there a Gapping tutorial? don't know how to do this. thnks for the iridium plug #. i'll have to try that. any reports of the iridium flaking? i've read about this before at a bmw forum.

What's the straight fender mod? las mich raten... (let me guess) that's a new rear fender plastic? i'll try a search for that.

[KXcam22]

Gapping is easy as long as you have a "feeler guage" set.  I use the corner of a smaller flat bladed screwdriver to lever up the outer electrode SLIGHTLY.  Dont' pry between the electrodes. Then check the gap, making sure the feeler guage drags slightly.  There will be lots of info on the net.  For the trans I suggest using cheap oil and changing it more often like every 3-4 rides.  10w40 is good and a bunch of us here (including me) are using Type F ATF.  Cheap and seems to work pretty good. Cam.

[Hillclimb#42]

'92-93 250 fender with a little trimmming by air box and drill new mounting hole at rear of sub-frame. Basically, you have to squeeze the fender between sub-frame, and use the bolt hole for a guide for a drill bit to make a new hole in fender. You may have to trim fender where it contacts air box or trim plastic under seat cover. I didn't have to trim that plastic under the seat on my '97, but its entirely possible that the previous owner did. You can look at a real good discussion and pics about it under straight fender mod in the 500 category. Use the search deal at the top of page.

[Danger4u2]

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,3277.0.html

[TerMaaten KX500]

thnxs for the link. i'm gonna do this mod. have a 93 kx250 plastic on order. i'm hoping i don't have to trim my seat either. or, i'd love to find someone selling a kx500 seat (with a cool cover) with this mod already done.

the Iridium plug is nice! thought i was running a higher octane gas. didn't ride long though -still missing that mud flap.

50 to 1 (with the belray MC1 syn 2-cycle lub) isn't gonna be too lean right? it is because it's synthetic is why i can go 50 to 1?

[TerMaaten KX500]

well i'm finding out that the No-Toil system might be the best for the original question #7. http://www.notoil.com/

I also use the Uni air filter with No Toil.

I called no toil and they said you can't use an uni. the alcohol in their products tears the uni apart. on monday i'll be ordering a filter,oil, grease and cleaner from no toil.

[Hillclimb#42]

 Awe crap, even the newbies are teaching me things on here. I've been using them together all season, but in hillclimbing, you only need to clean them like once a month or every other, depending on riding conditions, and of course the amount of fun riding thrown in there. Looks like I need to order a filter.....

[FuriouSly]

Twin-Air filters and Filter Oil is my standard.  The filters are beyond durable and chemical resistant.  Never had one go bad on me and hold up to the monster hand wringing that is needed to clean and oil them.

I only use gasoline (old premixed gas sometimes even) to clean the filters when they are sand/dirt coated.  Couple quarts in a small bucket and presto... clean enough.  Don't even wash with water because that slows down the process.  Just air dry the gas for 5 minutes and ready for the oiling.

Buy the lidded reuseable bucket for the oil to pour into but don't leave the oil in it for storage.  The plastic lets the slovent evaporate and the oil thickens.  Always pour the oil back into the metal can it comes in.  Just submerge the filter in the blue oil, fully saturate and wring out as much as possible.  Air dry for 10 minutes and it is ready to install.

Always clean the mating surface of the filter to the air box and use a waterproof grease for the mating seal.  DON'T rely on the filter oil for this connection....  it will always leak dirt by if you don't use any grease.  Bel-Ray grease is the bomb and dissolves easily in gasoline.

They are changing the color of the metal container since I think Motorex has bought them or something.  I use the original non bio-version.

[Dutch-K5 Fan]

Twin Air filters are the best!!!!!  Use Twin Air's Liquid power filter oil or Putoline's Action Fluid. Its the same!!!! Most of the GP Mx teams use it!!!!1

Wash it out with water, much beter for your filter.
When its dry, tap its out on a newspaper. You will be suprised how much sand will come out your filter!!

Twin air GP service does it, well with machines they do it.

 Dutchie

[kaw rider]

cam
just found a secret. i will post later.

[KXcam22]

Twin air makes excellent filters.  I would be using one except my stock filter and a UNI are both still alive from 1992.  Washed in gas for 15 years - thats tough.  Sly that waterproof Belray is really waterproof.  I use in on the prop shaft of my ski boat.  I left some smeared on the blades of the prop and went water skiing for a couple of days. Pulled the boat out of the water and most of the grease was still there!!  I only apply it wearing those cheap latex gloves since it is so hard to wash off.  I never thought about using on my filter (use white grease) since it is so hard to get off. Thanks for the tip. Cam.