pros/cons x-ring chain?

[Hillclimb#42]

 Anyone ever heard of these chains with no master-link, or for you guys across the pond connecting link?
I ordered a sprocket/ chain combo for the 250 and was informed the standard o-ring chain was out of stock, but they could upgrade to a x-ring chain. When it arrived it was a very impressive gold and looked a little heavier duty. I broke out the new chain breaker, put it all together, and looked for the clip for about 30 min. I was about to look thru the trash can, when I looked at the little master link pak and it had printed on there that there was no clip. It said it was a rivot type connecting link. I actually used the chain breaker to press the link together. which brings up another question. How do you guys press your master links together? It seems getting it together takes as long as mounting sprockets, cutting chain and adjusting chain does combined. Anyways, its been on there for about a month, and its pretty hard to even find on the chain, except for small circles left from my chain breaker. I thought I was the only one who had never heard of such a thing, but it turns out, that noone has seen or used this chain "upgrade." Anyone use these, or heard of them, afraid it will fly off or know why its better?

[FuriouSly]

Rivet type link is common.  Basically if you run a good quality front/rear sprocket that will last a season the theory is to replace the combo (chain/sprockets) at the same time.  Or whenever your sprockets look tired.  You need to have a rivet tool to properly set the stake or the link will be loose and fall off resulting in a most unpleasant situation.

What I do is always order the chain I run with a standard master link, it usually is an option.  If you are unable to you can usually order from the same supplier a standard master link for around $5-$10 and dump the rivet link.

There are alot of opinions out there on the life span of a good quality chain.  I run softer Renthal (and other makes) aluminum rear sprockets since this prolongs the lifespan of my chains ($30 on ebay for a sprocket compared to $115 for a chain). The rearend is submerged in sand at times during my dune rides causing increased wear.  I have a new chain and sprockets on standby and will compare the old chain to the new one by length (sometimes I will measure the overall length of the new chain before installing if I remember).  If the old one is about a half a link longer (2 1/2 percent rule of thumb longer than new) then it is time to replace it.  But usually when I put on the new rear sprocket (three times a season and once for the front a season) I just see if I can pull the chain away from the teeth after it is set close to sag.  If you can pull the chain more than 1/4" or rock it back and forth more than and 1/8" its time to change it.  Of course this is just my way and not scientific by any means.  I use a D.I.D., EK, or Renthal X-Ring and get two years out of the chains.

Sly

Here is the motion pro kit:    http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/chain_breaker_and_riveting_tool/

[BDI]

The rivet link chains are more commonly used on street bikes and large cc enduro style bikes. After you press the master link together It has to be staked with a special tool like the one FurisouSly posted a picture of. Did you flare the pins with a link tool? I did not see anywhere the mention of this very important step, not doing this Is like not tightening your axle nut, not good.If you have not flared the pins with special tool do not ride the bike anymore until you have done this.

[Johnniespeed]

 I have been using x-ring chains for about six years because I dont like to over oil my chains. I have not used the rivot style master link yet, but have heard that they are stronger. I simply use a regular x-ring master link.   My last chain lasted for over three hundred gallons of fuel. They outlast sprockets and sprockets. I am using the D.I.D. brand and have no experience with other brands.
  Make sure your master link pins have been peined over well so the end plate does not fall off. Or just put a regular x-ring master link on it.

[The Flyin Hawaiian]

I use a small closed end wrench and a pair of vise grips to press the outter plate on. Put the closed end of the wrench over the pin and against the plate. Place the vise grips on the wrench and the other side of the pin and press it together.

[hughes]

You'll love how long the x-ring / 0-ring chains last. I don't buy the high end chains but use the primary drive brand from rockymountainatvmc.com and they last forever and half the cost.

[KXcam22]

I'd have to agree with BDI and say not to ride until you get the link ends properly flared.  I don't think the chain breaker is intended to do that, at least mine won't.  Rivet links are normal on street bike since the ramifications of the chain comming off at high speed would be spectacular.  I would suggest ordering the regular master link for the chain (get 3 so you have some spares).  I always use the absolute best chain I can buy especially for a 500.  I my racing days I could get a whole race day without any chain adjustment out of the top end Tsubaki and phenominal multi-season chain life - so I still use the most expensive Tsubaki I can get today on my KX.  I dont ride as much or as hard so my latest chain has been on for 9 years or so and still going strong.  Unfortunately the Tsubaki is WAY more expensive than other brands.  There is likely a far better bang for the buck out there than what I do.  Cam.

ps a side effect of a top quality chain is that it has less side to side play so you get less subframe wear.

[don46]

X-ring chains are great, there is very  little drag even when cold. I used a vise grip that I welded a nut on one side then ground the other side so it sits square, the plates press on like a dream. I use a 530 chain on the big bike, when looking for the right chain I researched strength, interestingly most 530 and 520 chain has about the same tensile strength, something in the range of 7500-8500 lbs. I wanted something that would handle 165 hp and a big paddle tire, so I chose a 530 RK chain, it has a clip style mastelink and is rated for Drag racing with 11000 lbs tensil strength. I personally don't want anything that I will have to rivet, while I'm sure it is much better than the clip, it's not for me. For me, I use Renthal chains, they are made by Regina

[Hillclimb#42]

 I'm glad I asked. I will be getting flared or some master-links pronto. I hate to think of how much time is already on this chain with no security I have seen some ugly results of chains coming off. Also good tips on the chain presses. Glad to see that I actually got a nice upgrade, but it probably could have came with a normal master and been just as impressive.

[BDI]

Holly crap! you really did not stake the the master Link? I was hoping you just left that part out of your post. You are one lucky Hillclimber. I have seen chains come off and spit out on the ground and I have seen them wad up in front of the counter shaft sprocket and destroy the cases It's a role of the dice when your chain comes off. I saw a gsxr1100 wad the chain one time In second gear at about 10,000 rpm It turned that bike Into a parts bike Instantly.

[Polar-Bus]

X-ring chains are great, there is very  little drag even when cold.

Sorry I have to disagree. There is a HUGE amount of resistance when O-ring chains are cold as compared to roller versions. However once an O ir X ring chain warms up, the resistance is far less.

I have a Regina X ring on my 500 currently, and they are one TOUGH chain!
The only disadvantage to X ring chains that I have experienced over the years is the wider links will cause the "U" clip to drag along the rear swingarm chain guide buffer, which wears down the clip, possible causing the clip to break and pop off, and snap goes your chain! I ususally need to replace the "U" clip once a year....

[Hillclimb#42]

 It seems to free-wheel as easy as ever when cold, Polar, and my u-clip always shows wear on typical o-ring chains too. I think that is debris in chain guide and around case saver on front-sprocket. I think the clip will last as long as the chain, as long as you're not pulling it apart all of the time. Just be sure not to bend it and put it on with the open end towards the back. It has to stay on longer than my chain will with no staking or clip.

[hughes]

Resistance is not an issue. Maybe a pro level rider like ricky c. #4 might be able to tell the diff. between chains but not us normal moto guys

[BDI]

An O-ring chain might have more resistance but It keeps the same amount of resistance for much of It's life cycle.  A non O-ring chain has less resistance when Its new but as It whares out the resistance gets worse and worse. I would say about half way threw It's life cycle It has more resistance then any O-ring chain X or not. If you are a factory guy who gets a new chain every couple of races, go non O-ring. If you are a normal human and you want a chain that lasts with consistent performance for much of It's life, go O-ring

[don46]

At one time we had a sponsorship with RK chain, The engineer tried his darndest to get me to use the x ring chain, he swore that the RK X ring chain did NOT have any more resistance than the standard, he couldn't convince me but none the less that was his claim. I did use one on a k5, I would say on the stand cold it turned over harder, after 5 min of riding I couldn't tell any difference.

Add a new twist, what do you use for chain lube? I use Maxima chain wax.