Riding without the powervalve.

[murcada]

I was reading an earlier post on this board about how a guy removed his powervalve. He didnt go into great detail about the effect on the power but it seems like it would be more like a CR500. I have to admit I have been considering removing my powervalve as well. I hate cleaning those things and they can be a real pain in the ass if they arent working properly. Any thoughts?

[Rick]

Would never think of removing the power vavle on my scouter.  Yes, the power vavle is a pain to clean, but should only require service a few times a year, assuming that your jetting/fuel ratio is about right.  I don't think I have cleaned mine more that four times in any given year, and it only takes a couple of hours.  The trade off in power delivery though the RPM range is simply not worth the few hours saved each year to clean.

I'll stick with my power valve until I switch to a four stoke   (they will have to pry my 500 from my cold dead fingers...wait, that's my 9mm.  Oh well, same goes...)

Rick

[Paul]

       

I'll stick with my power valve until I switch to a four stoke   (they will have to pry my 500 from my cold dead fingers...wait, that's my 9mm.  Oh well, same goes...)

Rick

Oh, I'll buy a ticket to see the first ride of Rick on thumper

I don't know about the rest of you guys but I feel so outta place on those it's not even funny.

[QuantumDuck]

When I first got my KX500, the powervalve was disconnected...mine is a '96....and I was getting smoked in drag races by a race prepped 2000 model YZ125!!...

I will never again ride without it...

[HULKSTER]

OK....I don't have a 2003 Manual....how should I go about servicing my powercalve on my 2003 KX500?

I am missing a LOT of bottom....I believe it may be my powervalve or my compression. Need to get a compression tester.

[teamgreen500]

Hulkster,

The manual is a priority. Without it, $hit can get real frustrating. Barnes and Noble usually has them.

Manny

[supermotard500]

Anybody scanned the manual? I tried to buy one here, but Kawa don't sell it anymore and K5s are really rare here.

[John]

I remeber reading this somewhere on the net. It was a detaild expanation of how to take it apart and service it.

Check this out as a start. The color scheme isn't that great but it is readable.

Eric Gorr link

[HULKSTER]

I think ya gotta take the cylinder off....

Any 2003 Manuals for download anywhere?

[John]

I've bought the manuals, and really, there not that good. Check out the micro fish online under Web Links here. Would give you the same stuff except the torque and what some other information (which you always can ask this forum for).

[mikesmith]

I dont have a scanner (still!) or I would scann the info,sorry.You can use the older Clymer book,it covers 1983-1993 KX500's, but they havent changed much(better forks) so almost all the info applies to yor 2003.Thats a thing about the KX500s,most the info applies to all,well most all.

[Rick]

I've reset lots of power valves for folks who have taken theirs apart, and not paid attention.  I've even had folks bring me their cylinder at races as they could not get them set properly.  If I have time, I'll write a step-by-step instruction sheet on how to go about removing and reinstalling the power vavles.  However, if you can't wait, take a video camera, set it up on the bench, and video the removal process.  The brief removal instructions after removing the cylinder are as follows:

1. remove the two bolts from the exhaust ramp, and the one bolt from the rack (this is the long shaft that engages the arms sticking out of the engine.
2. remove the idle gear on the opposite side of the rack shaft (one barrel has two shafts next to each other.  The second shaft is an idler gear that simply reverses the direction of the barrel.
3. pull both barrels out about 1 inch, and pull the rack out of the cylinder.  
4. remove both barrels and exhaust ramp.
5. sometimes, the barrel holes will need to be cleaned.  If you don't have a dremil tool, just tape 120 grit paper to a 3/8 drill bit with the grit side out.  Take several wraps of paper on the bit so you'll have something to tear off if the paper gets clogged.  
6. rinse the cylinder.

On installation, the trick is to leave the bolts out of the exhaust ramp until you have the barrels engaged in place and timed.  Take lots of pictures before you disassemble, especially looking into the exhaust port while actuating the power valve.

I'll be servicing mine soon, so will take a few extra hours and develop detailed instructions.

Rick

[teamgreen500]

Here's a laugh:

I'm an educated Aerospace Techno-idiot...and I've never done this myself.

I guess I'll be asking for a tutorial. I'll bring the Coronas.

Manny

I'm blown away by the content around here. Thanks to all.