Stripped drain plug....best fix?

[ShanMan]

OK, call me a dumb-assed Gorilla   but I overtightened the drain plug last time and now the d**n thing is stripped and won't come out. I figure I will be able to get the bolt out one way or the other, but I am curious about the proper way to fix the trashed threaded hole? I suspect that using a Heli-Coil or a Keensert would be great for integrity of the thread, but can you seal it? Maybe it's better to simply drill and retap the housing? Anyone here done this and could help a brother out?    Thanks in advance.  

[alan]

OK, call me a dumb-assed Gorilla   but I overtightened the drain plug last time and now the d**n thing is stripped and won't come out. I figure I will be able to get the bolt out one way or the other, but I am curious about the proper way to fix the trashed threaded hole? I suspect that using a Heli-Coil or a Keensert would be great for integrity of the thread, but can you seal it? Maybe it's better to simply drill and retap the housing? Anyone here done this and could help a brother out?    Thanks in advance.  

Heli-coils are used all over the automotive industry, I see nothing wrong with using them for this application!

Alan

[Rick]

I agree.  However, I like the thread insert better than the coils, as they seem to work better longer because they are a solid piece with threads on the outside and the inside.

Just my $.02.

Rick

[kxtaz]

helicoil or timesert[solid threaded insert] will work.i prefer timeserts over helicoils but timesrts are a little exspensive and harder to find especially in metric sizes.        

I suspect that using a Heli-Coil or a Keensert would be great for integrity of the thread, but can you seal it?[/list:u]           the drain bolt has copper washer

[which is actually a copper gasket] that seals between head of bolt and engine case. helicoil or timesert will not effect drain bolt sealing properly.

[QuantumDuck]

Your gonna need to find an M10x1.5 helicoil kit....

Once you get the bolt out, use a variable speed drill and apply a very THICK coating of bearing grease to the drill bit...drill the hole VERY slowly...once you feel the drill bit biting into the metal...STOP...pull the bit out and wipe off the grease from the drill bit...the grease will hold the metal shavings onto the bit, keeping the shaving from inside your crankcase...for drilling the hole, you should clean off and reapply the grease about 5-6 times........

After you get the hole drilled out...go through the same procedure with the tap...lots of grease...get a few metal shavings on it...pull it out...clean it off...reapply grease and so on till the hole is tapped...reapply the grease on the tap about 7-8 times and you will have NO problems with little, tiny pieces of metal shavings in the crankcase...a pair of needlenose pliers does a good job of snapping the tine off the helicoil after it's inserted...get you a new copper crush washer and you should be all set to go...

Just for the record.....I did this 2 weeks ago and now I have no more leaks around my drain plug...now I just have to fix that pesky leak around the front sprocket

[Paul]

...now I just have to fix that pesky leak around the front sprocket

I got the fix for that one  

Once the seal and collar are out you'll find an o-ring on the shaft. Change that o-ring with one that is 1-1/16 X 7/8 X 3/32. I bought a bag of them at Home Depot and they were $.25 each. The Home Depot stock number is 35734B. I posted the sizes for non-us members, I don't think Home Depot is international.

Anyways... once that oring is changed out with the new one you will need to take the collar and grind a little bit at a time off one end of the collar - do this slowly, once the metal is gone you can't put it back .

I ground and test fit a few times before I could fit the retainer clip back on. This is going to be a tight fit and that is what stops the leakage. I also put the non-ground on end against the oring when I slid the collar back in, just to be sure there weren't any burrs that would damage my new oring.

I did this about a year ago and have had not one dribble, the sprocket has stayed dry as a bone. Before I did this i was changing that little seal and oring every month.

[kxtaz]

i can save you $40 [cost of helicoil kit].the correct tap size for  installing a m10 x 1.5 helicoil is m12 x 1.5 tap.helicoil wants you to spend the extra money on helicoil kit instead of just buying helicoil inserts seperately.tap that comes in kit is marked m10 x 1.5 but thats actually bolt size.heli coil taps are always 2 sizes larger with same pitch [example: M8 x 1.25 helicoil tap is actually M10 x 1.25 regular metric tap].

[ShanMan]

as a follow up: I wanted thank everyone for the bits of knowledge. I wound up buying the M10 X 1.5 Heli-Coil kit for $45. I know it seems excessive, but 1) it will save me time in the long run and 2) it's another tool to put in the tool box!    (it's a sickness really)  

<edit> In conclusion, the kit worked out bitchin' and I had the whole thing done and tools put away in 30 minutes. Thanks again guys.  

[gwcrim]

OK, this all sounds great BUT.........  how do you get the little tab out of the case?