Spark Plug gap/type

[air]

When I bought my bike I asked them what plug I should run and gap they told me br8es and they come "pregapped to the right size" I have been reading arround alot on this site and people seem to be running different plugs then the br8es and running different gaps. My question is what plug and gap should I run and If my bike is running fine now with a br8es not gapped would it run better with the right plug and right gap? Thanks

[hughes]

I would stick with factory plug and heat range. The air gap is important. The air gap will relate to a pre-set time that it takes for voltage to produce spark across the ground strap and the electrode. Heat range is very important. To cold and plug will be prone to fouling. To hot could even overheat the plug and cause pre-ignition. Just my 2 cents

[air]

Btw its a 99 kx250 do you know what plug and gap I should run I dont have a manual stupid me, Its on my list of things to buy.

[air]

And yes my plug fouled last night in one of the worst spots possible is why im questioning the dealership

[r1ray]

Sounds like you need to work on your jetting and not spark plugs.

[hughes]

Sorry my 500 manual covers up to 91 kx250. Your float height will need to be checked before you do any jetting changes.

[air]

Ive been reading gowens post " JEtting again and again" and reading the carb tuning thing on justkdx trying to get my facts straight before I tackle all this work tho.

[hughes]

small steps and one at a time. Keep track of everything you change and it's end result.

[Spider]

BR9ES with 0.020 to 0.024 gap, don't trust them to be gapped right. There was 3 different gap ranges in the Clymer manual I couldn't find it in the factory manuals, but I'll admit I didn't look that hard. Invest in manuals if you want to do it yourself they will save you money and headaches in the long run!!!

Dale

[air]

Thanks spider