Author Topic: Cylinder Stud Removal  (Read 3154 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Cylinder Stud Removal
« on: November 23, 2005, 03:36:26 PM »
Hey Guy's I got the bike torn down and I'm getting ready to remove the studs from the cylinder. I was thinking a stud runner and spray some kind of penetrating lube. Any other idea's for removing these studs?? They look like it's not going to be fun.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline Timbowe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 671
RE: Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2005, 05:10:43 PM »
Lock nut them. Dont use any heat could warp the barrel.
KX500
Weapon in the hands of the Master

Offline KXcam22

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,677
RE: Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #2 on: November 24, 2005, 02:10:10 AM »
Hughes,
  Double nut on the stud and then spin them out (since they are threaded).  No heat. Should come out quite nicely.  After they are out check the threads in the cylinder to make sure they are in good shape. I once had an engine with one stud creeping (bad threads) and blowing the head gasket. Took me forever to figure out what it was. Cam.

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2005, 04:09:42 AM »
Thanks Guy's. I just wanted to make sure before I tried it. The cylinder replate guy wants 60.00 buck for removing these studs if I leave them in.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline barryadam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 191
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2005, 03:39:41 AM »
If they are really stubborn, and double nuts aren't working too well, try this:

I apply Kroil penetrating fluid for at least overnight.
Get some aluminum jaws for  your bench vise.  The kind that have some v-slots machined into the aluminum faces.

Clamp one stud at a time as hard as you want in those aluminum jaws, turning a bit at a time , reclamping as needed.  Obviously, working the first stud, you only get a few degrees of rotation in the vise.

After removal of all the studs, chase the threads on the studs and in the cylinder with a thread restorer, NOT a  tap and die.  I find all of the threads get slightly stretched.  Check to be sure they will all hand thread all the way in again.  I have the studs plated with the rest of the fasteners and reassemble with plenty of anti-sieze.

Take advantage of the bare cylinder by cleaning up the head surface on a surface plate along with the head itself.

Barry
"I hate heli-coils. They are like hospice for motorcycle parts."- BDI

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2005, 11:34:19 AM »
Thanks for the tips. I am in Elkhart,IN this week and then going to TNN for the rest of this week. I hope here in the next two weekends to remove those studs and ship the cylinder out.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Rowdy-Yates

  • Guest
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2005, 01:10:23 PM »
Any luck on the stud removal Hughes. When I shipped my cylinder they removed mine for free.

Offline hughes

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,923
    • Dirt Hammers
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2005, 01:24:53 PM »
I just got back in town this weekend. I am going to remove them this week. US Chrome is doing the replate they only charge 25.00 if I can't remove them.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline Johnniespeed

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 575
  • The Thrill of Speed overcomes the fear of Death.
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2005, 01:35:10 PM »
Hughes, I have several stud removers. They look like a spark plug socket, but inside they have rollers on ramps. Just like a sprague clutch in an automatic transmission. When you turn the  socket the rollers ride up the ramps and squeeze the stud, turning it and presto out come the studs. The only downside is that they are not cheap. If they wont come out, put a nut on the stud first and using the flat side of a ball pein hammer hit directly on top of the stud. The jarring effect will frequently dislodge the siezure. Dont use a carpenters "claw" hammer the steel is the wrong type and will not deliever much energy to the stud.
Spring is here and the Mighty 500 wants to ride.
 2004 KX500 E16
 Michigan has the best groomed and mapped trail system, check out the Cycle Conservation Club of Michigan trail maps.

Offline YUNGGUNNAZ

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 219
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #9 on: December 05, 2005, 08:49:50 AM »
have you ever tried luke's racing for plating.good people and shipped back free.www.lukesracing.com.

Rowdy-Yates

  • Guest
Cylinder Stud Removal
« Reply #10 on: December 05, 2005, 03:39:49 PM »
Yes I have Yung they have a cylinder of mine right now.