The Next Rebirth!

[dirtball]

So I finally broke my '92 KX500 right, its not shifting correctly, and its time to split the cases and find out what is going on.  It had also been coming time for a fresh top end, she read 120PSI on the compression gauge before the descion to tear her down.  

So far I have noticed that my power valves were overclosing,  and I have a Stealthy flywheel weight installed that I did not know about when I bought the bike.  This thing is gonna SCREAM once its back together.  I also managed to find some crud in the pilot jet.  Hopefully she will idle again.


Question for those who have used a flywheel weight, how are they attached?
I noticed a series small hex head set screw s on the outside circumfrence, but did not have the right allen wrench to remove the set screws.  I belive these may hold the weight on, but there was also a secion on the outside in the center where it looks like a puller may have to be used.


This is the first bike I have had since I was about 15(I just turned 26), I got to ride it 5-6 times before the shift problem.   Running like a cripple, the power totally hooked me, I can't wait to get her working back to factory spec again!

Thanks for the insight on the flywheel weight in advance!


Travis

[KXcam22]

Piece of cake to get it off.  It threads on in place of the flywheel nut and goes over your flywheel like a cover.  The setscrews around the outside help to secure it a bit.  To remove it, undo all the setcrews then turn it off in the same direction as your crank spins.  Mine had a small steel plate that bolted on the face (for removal only) that had a 3/8" square drive hole in it so you could turn it off with a ratchet.  You might be able to get a strap wrench over the outside or it would be an easy matter to build a removal plate out of some flatbar. Hope this helps. Cam.

[dirtball]

The set screws are in there some kinda tight,  I twisted up a T-Handle allen key, I have a bad feeling the previous owner was a maniac on overtorquing things.  The headache is the engine is out of the bike and halfway apart already, Stopping the crank from turning during removal will be the interesting part.  Any Suggestions?  Any idea what size the threads are to put the removal plate on?  Are those by chance left handed threads?  I am not sure what direction the engine rotates.


Travis

[KXcam22]

Dirt,
  Facing the flywheel the engine rotates CCW.  If I recall I think the threads on the removal plate are typical RH standard thread (non metric) since the flywheel is made in Oregon.  Soak the setscrews in liquid wrench or some other bolt loosener first.  If you phone steahly they can confirm. Cam.

[dirtball]

Does anyone have a contact number for Stealthy.  I am not having much luck
finding info on them.


Thanks


Travis

[Danger4u2]

Does anyone have a contact number for Stealthy.  I am not having much luck
finding info on them.


Thanks


Travis

http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/store2003/weights.php?s_make=kawasaki&s_category=Flywheel+Weights

Your Welcome

Danger

[Johnniespeed]

Steahly  Off Road Products.  3850 Pioneer Road  Medford Oregon 97501  USA
  1-800-800-2363     1-541-535-4896

[Johnniespeed]

By the way, the flywheel weight replaces the nut that holds the flywheel on. There are two threaded holes in the face of the weight that are tapped 1/4 20 sae thread.  that is where the installer/remover tool bolts onto.  You will need to spin the flywheel weight counterclockwise while keeping the crank stationary. Once you have it off and inspect it you will see how very simple it is. The set screws should be SAE ( non-metric) thread and only need to be loosened a little.

[dirtball]

I ended up getting the set screws out with a TINY amount of heat.  I didn't use the Oxy/Acetelyne, I used a handheld propane bottle with a brazing tip.  I  
just barely kissed the flywheel with the flame.  I also picked up a 1/4 inch drive 3/32nd hex socket from Snap-On that seemed to deliver a fair amount more torque than a standard L-end hex key.

As for the flywheel removal tool, I took a 1 inch by 3 inch peice of flat steel and welded an extra 1 inch 3/8ths extension.  Then drilled holes to bolt it to the flywheel weight.  The threads to attach the removal tool to the flywheel weight were 1/4 course standard threads.

I did find once I had the flywheel off, that the flywheel had sheered the woodruff key, and had been sheered for quite some time.


This is a dumb question.  The flywheel appears to be one big magnent, aside from being bad for the crank and flywheel surfaces, how does the sheered key change the timing?  At what point when the flywheel is passing the coils does the spark get generated?


The sheered flywheel key is yet another factor that was making her such a nightmare to get started.  

I can't wait to get her moving again, I can't go any further with splitting the cases until I get a manual.  

Between the power valves overclosing, the gunk I found in the pilot circut, and the sheered flywheel key.  My 500 dollar KX5 is gonna idle and SCREAM.  I can not wait!


Any opinions on Clymer manuals vs the factory literature for overhauls down to splitting the cases?




Travis

[KXcam22]

Dirtball,
  That sheared key is a good find! Would have given you lots of trouble.  On mine I lapped the flywheel to the crank end. Very simple, just borrow a tiny bit of valve grinding compound, place it on the crank taper (no key), put the flywheel on by hand and spin it a bunch. Every so often move the paste back onto the taper.  When the two surfaces match you will see a nice even pattern. Hope this helps. Cam.

[dirtball]

What sort of problems does the sheered flywheel key usually end up creating?

[dirtball]

How far does the flywheel seat onto the crankshaft?  I have to lap the flywheel to the crank, where it spun, it moved some metal around.   Does the flat area at the end of the taper hole on the flywheel end up flush with the flat face at the base of the threads on the end of the crank?  It doesn't seem that the flywheel is going all they way to the seated postion.  I have the cases apart and the crank on the bench.  The rod bearing is within spec, I am trying
to avoid having to buy a new crank assembly.

Dirtball

[John]

If you follow Cam's instruction you'll be fine.

The limitation of how far you can insert the flywheel is caused by the conical shape of the crank. If you were to grind using valve grinding compound you will be fine. Just make sure that the both contact-surfaces bares marks of the grinding and then a bit more. When you reached that stage, you know that the flywheel will be properly and tightly seated.

I hope this makes sense to you?

//John