Author Topic: 2001 RM250/ 1994 KX500 conversion. The "Kawasuki RM500" (Read 78764 times)

mikectanker · « **Reply #60 on:** March 13, 2016, 04:48:43 AM »

Blew up my ported cylinder with the steel sleeve. It siezed.I'm not sure if it was bored correctly
For the forged wiseco piston.... anyhow I put my stock cylinder on with a pro x piston.
Doing a little break in today.
The 14/49 gearing and adding Alward's kips bolt mod are working fing awesome!
Going for a woods ride today and can't find the gopro. Should have a video the next day I ride.

My rear hub is toasted. Had to torch a sprocket bolt out. The whole wheel is in bad shape like the whole chassis was. 2 owners ago the RM was owned by a guy who tightened the cap out of everything. Except the spokes which never saw a wrench.
Thinking about warp9 wheels with green hubs and rims, silver spokes and nipples

umberto · « **Reply #61 on:** March 13, 2016, 08:33:26 AM »

That stinks about your cylinder. It's lucky that you had the stock cylinder to put back on. When I was having my cylinder sleeved, Millennium told me that they could also plate sleeves after repairing any damage. It might be something to consider on down the road. If you do get it replated, I would recommend contacting Sandblaster or Alward25 for a Wossner piston to send along with it. The pistons are as nice as everyone says they are, and they are not expensive when compared to the other forged pistons (within a few dollars).

Can't wait to see your ride video.

Foxx4Beaver · « **Reply #62 on:** March 13, 2016, 08:53:31 AM »

Quote from: mikectanker on March 13, 2016, 04:48:43 AM

Blew up my ported cylinder with the steel sleeve. It siezed.I'm not sure if it was bored correctly
For the forged wiseco piston....

that sucks...been there before.
just curious...did you check to see if the sleeve was sticking above the cylinder?...all it takes is a couple thousands, and the head gasket won't seal....which allows coolant to leak into the cylinder, basically steam cleaning the cylinder walls. I had this happen to a KX250 several years ago that I had sleeved...it never seized, but I was using coolant steadily for a few rides, and it tore up my top end pretty good.

The other thing that crossed my mind was, did you check the piston to cylinder clearances before you put it together?

Post some pics of the piston and cylinder if you get a chance.

mikectanker · « **Reply #63 on:** March 13, 2016, 11:09:24 AM »

The strangest thing was that the top end was coated with grease on the dome and top of the piston. I've never seen that before. I didn't check the clearances but the next guy who touches my cylinder will also be selling me the piston.
I've heard that the steel sleeves don't hold up as well to hard riding as a stock cylinder wall would but idk..

I'm just glad I got to ride some muddy trails around home and the bike worked great.
I Need to get to the track and test the suspension better.
Leak jet on the 250f is plugged so the 500s prob going to the track first.
Fertilizer hauling season is starting to get balls to the wall so I'm not sure when I'll ride again

Foxx4Beaver · « **Reply #64 on:** March 13, 2016, 12:56:10 PM »

grease could've come from the air filter to boot seal...sucked through, if an over abundance was used...not sure why else there'd be grease in there.

mikectanker · « **Reply #65 on:** March 13, 2016, 06:26:08 PM »

No signs of anything oozing down the air boot tho.
It blew up on Lucas oil. I switched back to am soil dominator.
This is the first 2stroke I've had in 10 years. Still beats the costs and bs of the four strokes.

It was running rich on the low rpm.
The only thing I can figure is the cylinder wasn't bored a little more for a forged piston.

I'm using the RM radiators which are larger and hold more than the k 500 radiators. I don't think the different radiators could cause a problem.

I can't put a pic up of the top end since im on the road in the truck but my most trusted local shop owner said he'd look at it for nothing.
Got to drop the 250 f carb and pw50 carb off anyhow.

mikectanker · « **Reply #66 on:** March 17, 2016, 01:17:46 PM »

added renthal twinwalls and tusk bark busters (with 7/8 mounts).
i cut up an old handlebar and mounted the bark busters to the crossbar.had to grind the threaded part of the mount to angle things right for the crossbar mounting. Literally a hack job on the bark buster mounting but it seems solid.
Those are pro grip street grips hidden there somewhere. i like the full gel and larger diameter.been running those for years on other bikes. heres the 1st link i found to the grips (photobucket is a pain in my @$$) http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900023787

mikectanker · « **Reply #67 on:** March 17, 2016, 03:34:43 PM »

I noticed on efm's website in the FAQs it says you can still use your clutch lever..... I sent them an email.
Sure would be a nice alternative to trying to make a rekluse work.
I thought the EFM eliminated the clutch lever but it says here... --> http://www.efmautoclutch.com/faq.shtml

mikectanker · « **Reply #68 on:** March 18, 2016, 02:02:54 AM »

Quote from: mikectanker on March 17, 2016, 03:34:43 PM

I noticed on efm's website in the FAQs it says you can still use your clutch lever..... I sent them an email.
Sure would be a nice alternative to trying to make a rekluse work.
I thought the EFM eliminated the clutch lever but it says here... --> http://www.efmautoclutch.com/faq.shtml

Got an email back from Garry EFM. I asked if he could do a kx500 and keep the use of the lever. Here's what he sent back.

As long as the clutch pushes to the outside we can maintain the manual lever
On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 6:24 AM Garry Buzzelli <garry@efmautoclutch.com> wrote:
We modify the clutch you send us 695.00 plus shipping

mikectanker · « **Reply #69 on:** March 18, 2016, 02:10:49 AM »

I also emailed moto tassinari about reeds. Good news. here's their reply
Bad news is I have a gray vforce that is not a vforce 2... idk what to do but my carb fits tight with the stock carb.
There is a crossbar in the frame that wouldn't let me use the vforce by 1/4 inch. So its mod the frame or run the stock cage with boyesens.

Hello Mike,

The depending on which valve you have the part numbers are below. Unfortunately we do not offer these petals via our online store, so you will have to call us at (603) 298-6646 between 8am-12pm and 1pm-5pm to place an order.

Delta 1 Black reed cage: DP120
Delta 2 Gray reed cage: 2P127

Regards,
Moto Tassinari

mikectanker · « **Reply #70 on:** March 23, 2016, 12:27:36 PM »

Got 1/2 of my homemade 2tall kit done today.
I had some 2 inch diameter pipe and cut 2 3inch lengths.
Cut 1/3 of the pipes so they were U shaped to sit on top of the original frame backbone.
TheN used a 1x2inch piece of rectangular tubing for the rear of the tank to sit on.
I only have an old buzz box stick welder. I sucked at using it but luckily someone I know stopped by and made it look easy. Put the stock rubber pieces on top and it fits real nice.
I will use the stock mounting bolt hole on the frame for the gas tank. I used two pieces of 1.5inch mounting angle from tractor supply in place of the stock angled brackets. .

Now I just need to get the sub frame welded with 4 1 inch drops and extend the silencer mounts 1 inch.

This will also result in tipping the top of my carb forward allowing more room so maybe I can slip a vforce in there. I have a 125 air boot in case I need a little more reach but don't think it will be needed.

Also ordered a rear wheel from warp9. Just all silver parts. Really wanted green but then I would have to buy both wheels. The front wheel is really nice so I decided to save some money.

Can't wait to see how it rides with a better clutch pull and ergonomics that fit me better.
Thinking about used pegs from a 2003 or newer bike since they will make more room for my size 12.
The newer peg sat 10mm farther back. If that isn't good enough then the shifter and rear brake pedals will be chopped and extended.

mikectanker · « **Reply #71 on:** March 24, 2016, 10:34:54 AM »

Clutch arm lengthened. Pulls a little better but I'm grabing a hydraulic setup used when I can.
Got to mount the 1 inch taller sub frame back up. I should have pics and a ride report by the end of the weekend.

mikectanker · « **Reply #72 on:** March 24, 2016, 04:28:30 PM »

Here's the 1 inch lift kit/home made 2tall kit. Tank/shrouds and seat/subframe are all 1 inch higher.

The steel ruler represents the new path of my knee from having my knee straight above the foot peg to sitting way forward.
I can now glide along the line of green chrome without jamming my knee in the holes and screwing up my knee brace positioning.

mikectanker · « **Reply #73 on:** March 24, 2016, 04:50:22 PM »

Here's how it was done. By no means is it a work of art, but it works.

3 spots where the tank sits on rubber spacers. cut some 2 inch tubing in the right spot so it was "C" shaped for a 1 inch lift.
then used some 1x2 rectangular stock for the bottom of the tank to rest on just like stock but up an inch.