Slight drag when spinning crankshaft

[dave916]

check the gaps at more points with the feeler gauge { eg 12 ,3, 6 9 ,oclock 12being where the con rod is
if the gaps are pretty similiar 12/6 oclock you crank should be pretty true

IF you crank is out of true the drag you feel will only be at certain points

To centre the crank you need to tap it Lightly at the flywheel nut with soft hammer {or hold a bit of wood against flywheel nut}
idealiy you should use a crank jig but it will help to wedge LIGHTLY some thing between crank webs oppisite conrod} crank at BDC

remeber very GENTLE tapping   
GOOD LUCK

[queen of spodes]

check the gaps at more points with the feeler gauge { eg 12 ,3, 6 9 ,oclock 12being where the con rod is
if the gaps are pretty similiar 12/6 oclock you crank should be pretty true

IF you crank is out of true the drag you feel will only be at certain points

Will check and post findings later tonight or tomorrow.

[queen of spodes]

Gap between the counterweight & case is identical at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock on both sides.

[sandblaster]

What all do you have installed on the outside of the cases?

[queen of spodes]

What all do you have installed on the outside of the cases?

I had everything on the right side, but have since removed it all as I thought I'd have to split cases again.   Nothing installed on the flywheel side.

The big question for me is can I get the right main crank bearing fully seated without splitting?   If it's not fully seated, that would maybe explain the slight drag I felt.  (?)

[sandblaster]

So nothing is installed except for the crank and internal crank case parts?

[queen of spodes]

And the crank seals.  Correct.

[queen of spodes]

Here's what it looks like right now.

Flywheel side:


Clutch side:


If I torque down the right side crank nut to spec, the crank has the drag again.  If that is loose the crank spins like what I'd expect (very light resistance from moving the crank against the seal). 

[sandblaster]

Well....
The only thing I can think of is the bearing not being correctly seated....
I sure hope that someone else has a better idea...

[LukeG]

Or is there a washer that's a poofteenth too thick, or is a gear the wrong way around. Does sound like a bearing not being seated properly.

[dave916]

You need to tap Lightly on the flywheel side bolt  until resistance  goes away /no more  { THATS All}
you could do it in stages as u tighten the nut
let us know how u get on

your problem is that u fitted the crank to flywheel side first which pulls the bearing into the endfloat{ crank off centre towards the flywheel}

The crank might set a liittle more to the clutch side when finished tightening the nut/ dont worry about this  as it  preset from the factory

[sandblaster]

Oh... you haven't tapped on the side of the crank yet?
I assumed that you already did it way at the beginning when I suggested it but it didn't fix the problem.
If you haven't yet tapped, by all means do that next, just don't get crazy with it 

[queen of spodes]

Got it.   Torqued down the main gear to spec.  Worked up a makeshift jig, then gave a couple of love taps to the left end of the crank.  Felt a little pop on the second tap.  Crank now spins freely like I'd expect with new bearings & seals.  Don't see a ton of difference in measuring the side clearance but it feels right now.

Mucho, mucho gracias. 

[sandblaster]

I'm sure dave916 feels the same way I do... wheeewwww..... 

[dave916]

I'm sure dave916 feels the same way I do... wheeewwww.....  

iF I had seen the last pictures a bit sooner  
just shows how important pictures are

Good luck with the rest of build