1989 kx125 restoration master thread

[queen of spodes]

Help!

I lapped case halves tonight using the bolt method.   They are tight now, used to have some light shine through, now virtually none.

I did spot this troubling defect:


This little scratch catches on my fingernail.  Will Yamabond seal it up, or do I have a problem on my hands?

[sandblaster]

Yamabond might do it but I like to fill them first with JB Weld.

http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=411

[queen of spodes]

I was thinking of that - thanks!

[queen of spodes]

No, you do not need that tool. I don't like the idea of pressing on the crank to assemble the bottom end. That tool only acts as a crank spacer to keep the flywheels parallel while you press the cases onto the crank. I put my crank in the freezer and my cases in the oven. Then I use some threaded plumbing fittings from the hardware store to pull the crank into the cases if it needs some additional tweaking. Use 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" black iron couplings and 3/4 reducer. Use the fittings as a spacer between the crank's ends and the case, use washers between spacers and nut on the crank's primary side or bolt on the ignition side. When you tighten the nut or bolt onto the crank it draws it into the case without putting stress on the crank pin. The plumbing parts and big washers cost me about $6-7 at Ace and I have used them on KXs, YZs, and CR cranks with no problems  

MJ, what length pipe did you get for this job, or did the couplings and reducer have the right length by themselves?

[queen of spodes]

Mini update (sorry no pics):

Got my brake pedal installed.  Gently sanded off some of the powder coat, got a snug fit, then applied some moly grease to the pivot.  No wobble - all set.

On the engine side of things I have both crank bearings installed in the cases, and am holding off on a couple smaller bearings from Kaw before I assemble.  Hope motojason will follow up to my question above.  Or I'll figure it out.

Debating whether to get a new airbox and boot.. what I have isn't perfect, but that's another $160 in parts that I probably won't recoup. 

[sandblaster]

No pics?
Didn't happen 

[bens87braap]

yeah u should have just taken a random pic of anything I like pics 

[sandblaster]

No, it's hilarious... 

[queen of spodes]

As promised 

[sandblaster]

It's so purdy it's gonna be a shame to cover it up with plastics.

[queen of spodes]

Well at least there will be OEM graphics over the plastic and no random Monster stickers.   People bitch about this era KX being ugly but I don't think so. 

Sorely tempted to run yellow backgrounds even though they were only on 500s.  The yellow against the blue & green just looks amazing. 

[sandblaster]

Too bad you weren't a bit closer...
I'd like to vapor blast all your external engine parts.... That would look sweet!
I've been randomly blasting parts I sell on eBay after they are sold, so the people are shocked when they get a part that looks like new.
I keep getting asked what I use to clean the parts with.
I send them this pic 

[queen of spodes]

Yeah I wish we were closer I'd take you up on that.  I've scotch brighted the cases as best I can but they are still dingy compared to the cylinder & head which were bead blasted by the plating company.

[queen of spodes]

Need some advice/input.

How close should the crank half come to the case?  I'm using the puller motojason suggested above.  Will the crank half bump up against something before it touches the case?



Crank is rotating freely as it sits:


motojason's puller (well not his, but one like it )

[queen of spodes]

Clymer said to pull it in until it bumps up against the bearing - did that and it spins freely.

Checking out the shift drum & forks: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=le7_fOPx9wc

Cleaned off the case half surfaces of dirt/oil..

Think I am almost ready to button the cases together!