Reducing Power - I'm a wuss!!!

[TomL]

I ride mostly in tight woods and the massive power is difficult to handle.  I use 13/52 sprockets(1st gear was way too high) and a flywheel weight.  I recently reduced the silencer opening to 3/4" and put a cover on the airbox with a small opening.  This made it run very rich, so I'll have to drop the main jet a step.  The rear sprocket is aluminum and I think I would be better off with steel to reduce response at the rear wheel.  Any other ideas???  Anybody else go down this road before???

[mikesmith]

I ride tight technical singal track,no fly wheel weight and low gearing because I like it to hit hard.I would suggest spending more time on the bike and giving yourself a chance to get used to it in the tight.If thats not the answer you want how about the auto clutch (theres a post here somwhere on it),It would be your best answer I think.Or a Moose reed spacer,what kind of pipe are you running?Reduce compression,try not running the power valve.But I still say give it time and that power will grow on you!

[TomL]

Thanks Mike!!!  I'm running the stock pipe.  I never thought of a reed spacer.  What effect will that have?  How do you reduce compression?  I have an idea!!  What would happen if I put a washer with a slightly smaller opening than the carb at the exit end of the carb.  I could just match the washer O.D. to the carb and slide it into the boot before putting in the carb.    Wouldn't that restrict air/fuel flow?  I don't think that would even require rejetting.  Does that make sense???  I could try different I.D.'s until I get the desired power.  Sounds good anyway.  Would it work???

[hughes]

Toml,

The reed block spacer adds more punch at the low to mid range but it can smooth the power. Have you tried different gearing Like 14/47 or 14/45 you can change how aggressive the power is by the gearing. There is a chart here some where do a search. Hope this helps

[Timbowe]

Time behind the wheel! Power is in throttle control. Smoothness is the key.

[KXcam22]

Toml,
  When my bike had the stock jetting the power was difficult.  It would burble low to mid then take off like a scalded cat on top. Was a bit unsettling since I am accustomed to using the midrange edge and there was none.  A few changes turned this around completely.  Careful jetting (the jetting chart is almost perfect) reeds (I'm using the boysen dual stage - I like them but the V force is better) and a reed spacer.  Now the power is electric-linear with a nice midrange blast.  I ride tight single-track and woods.  The power is easily controlled with the throttle, no need for a flywheel weight.  As Timbowe says "smoothness is the key". Hope this helps. Cam.

[mikesmith]

Well as far as making the carb smaller its not as easy as using a washer,but I know there used to be a place that would bore your carb and you would use sleeves for a bigger or smaller venturie.But I think Id try more praticle things first.I have a Pro Circuit pipe( so if Im wrong some one help me out)but I would suggest a FMF gnarly pipe.Destry Abbott likes a smooth power band and runs this pipe.Theres an optional thick base gasket (and I think a head gasket)for a lower compression,the base gasket will alter port timing,and Ive never run it ,but I hear it smoothes out the power,or send the head to Pro Circuit and the can machine it for you..As some one suggested try playing with your gearing(smaller rear or larger front).

[Timbowe]

I,ve seen a exhaust port washer/ring type thing that is used on the KDX. Lowers top end broadens low to mid range. I run a Gnarly on My kdx. and I really like like it! Good smoth delivery of the bottom and dose'nt really sacrifice to much top end. Plus It is made out of a heavier guauge metal. Withstands a lot of punishment! Gnarly is on my ever increasing list of up grades for the big 5. When I went to check out my 5, the dude selling it had given it a spruce up and siliconed it all with spray on amour all stuff [including the seat]. Jumped on, fired it up, took it for a quiet burn to warm up. Once warm gave it a tap and nearly shot straight of the back of the seat!  Gripper seat cover was the first modification.  What a difference! Seated control is far better. Although a set of raised bars and standing is my preferred method.

[gowen]

Shrinking the exhaust? Covering up the airbox? Changing the gearing? Using a washer on the Carb?

What I'm hearing/reading is, it sounds like, a 500cc two-stroke is not for you. If you like bigbore power at less-a-hit, try the XR series bikes. If you are just a two-stroke guy, try a 250. But, I have to say, my KX250 hits harder than my 500 (well it is felt more, due to traction). I'd just suggest looking for another bike. You can't reduce ""POWER"" persay, but you can change the power. Anything you do to reduce power will damage the engine in some way. The BIG BORE has to breath, you can't restrict the air without hurting it. It will lead to issues with your block. Read the issues already about vaccum to the KX and the surging.

I'll leave this post alone, but I will say, don't buy anything you can't handle. If you have to reduce the power on a bike you own and can't just control yourself or the throttle, get rid of it and start smaller, then once you feel more comfortable on what you chose, move up to the next size.

[jdv500]

yeah,
 i agree with gowen, don't mess with anything on the bike  for de-modding it, if your not seeking more from your eng/bike combo, but trying to simmmer it down then sell it to get something smaller. your 500, in it's basic raw form is a monster. either buckle up and get to know the bike through a variety of terrain or just let it go, save your self the pain and heart-ache. you don't want to ruin your (off-road passion) altogether by forcing yourself to go bull riding.!!!!! enjoy, jdv

[GDubb]

I had a friend a couple years ago that bought a CR500 for his first bike only because he got such a good deal on it. I watched that bike whoop him every time he got on it. I tried to tell him many times that that bike was hurting his riding ability and he was never going to get any better if he didnt get a bike he could handle. After beating the s**t out of the bike and himself, he sold the bike for $700 to the first person that would buy it and gave up riding.  Thats some good advice from jdv, you might want to consider it.  They say that a 250 has all the power the average rider will need for a reason. The only reason I even considered a 500 is because I will do most of my riding at the dunes in the sand and listening to what these guys here had to say about what a great bike the KX5 is, is what it finally took to convince me. Otherwise I wouldve probably gone with a 250 or one of the newer 400+ fourstrokes.  Good luck whichever path you choose...  what matters most is that you keep riding!

[Timbowe]

I had a ride on a Wr 450 in the weekend. Smooth progressive power, Great brakes and handling. Perfect for tight tracks or open areas. Great bike for confidance building. As was KDX 200. Maybe start there and work your way up?

[TomL]

Thanks for all the advice guys.  I was considering selling the k5 in the spring because I always ride my kdx220 since it's easier to handle.  I was just hoping maybe I could detune it to a power level I'm more comfortable with.  I did ride it for 2 seasons and I had a CR500 for a couple years before that,  so I don't have any problem managing the power.  It just feels like alot of work sometimes compared to the kdx.  Maybe I'm just getting old and lazy!!!  I'm 37 now!!!  The funny thing is:  I keep modding the kdx to make it go faster!!!  I guess I'm aiming for something between the two.  I won't be done riding for a long time yet.  I might just have to get slower bikes!!!  Thanks Again!!!

[gowen]

Timbowe made a good suggestion about the WR450. Sweet bike, electric start and is basicly a YZ450F with a light, estart, wide-tranny, and flywheel weight. It is a lazy type ride, as, the power is strong, but you don't feel much pull.

[Timbowe]

I had the Kdx hotting up disease too! But eventually yeilded to the Kx5s power. It feels pretty much like the Kdx with gobs more power. Its all in the twist of the wrist. I reckon I am riding faster and smoother than I have riden before. Being 37 as well, its a bit of a strain on the old bod but the satisfaction of a good old blast up some wicked little track is a  really good feeling.  I reckon stick with it really the kx is a big old puss. Its  just time in the saddle. I run{now] 14/ 46 teeth which I find perfect for all ridding. Maybe Your geared a little low stretching your arms. We dont have 2 cents here now, so heres 5cents worth.  What year is your bike I,m looking for another?