2000 KX500 Project

[umberto]

When you roll start it does it take a while for it to light off, or does it fire right away?

[Pmcg]

my driveway is steep and maybe 20'-30' long.  Its usually running by the time I hit the road.

[umberto]

I'm just wondering if it is loading up and it takes a second to clear all the fuel before starting.  If it bogs for a bit and then fires, it being rich may explain why you can bump start it but not kick start it. How does it run when it finally starts?  Is the jetting clean?

I saw you have a lectron, but I didn't see what needle you have.  My motor is an 88mm bore, and I am going down in needle from the 5.2 xl to a 3.2 xl on the advice of Dennis at Packard Racing where I bought the carb.  Maybe your needle is too large, and/or set too rich initially.  Just a thought, I'm sure some of the more seasoned guys might have some better ideas.

[Pmcg]

I think this could be the exact issue.  Im also at 88mm. Bike runs rough on the bottom but clears up on the top.  My 44mm is from Packard as well and I'm running the 5.2 XL as well.  Is this the same issue your having?

[umberto]

Mine is just the opposite.  It's clean on bottom and ROUGH on top.  Did you buy your carb from Packard?  If so, Dennis will swap needles with you for free.  You just send him yours with return postage and he can get it exchanged.

[umberto]

Just saw you said yours was from Packard.  Gotta work on those attention span issues.   

[Foxx4Beaver]

my driveway is steep and maybe 20'-30' long.  Its usually running by the time I hit the road.

just curious, what plug you got in there?...and how's it look after running at low rpm?

[Pmcg]

Br8eix iridium that the folks at Penton recommended with their system.  The bike doesn't really idle at all but the plug is dark brown / black. I spoke with Dennis Packard (great guy) and he said the 5-2 and the 4-2 needles have the same bottom so there would be no difference starting.

I put the stock ignition back on and got it to start but sheeted the flywheel key as I didn't tighten the flywheel enough so I'm taking a break for now.

[Foxx4Beaver]

I asked, because last summer I started running an NGK BP plug(protruded nose plug)...and noticed a big difference in starting, mostly when it's hot...mine's always started 1st kick cold, but would sometimes take 2-3 when it was really hot from running hard in the sand...now it's one kick all the time with the BP.
I'm curious to see if Motorrad will share his thoughts on the BP plug...cause he mentioned in another thread a while back, that he was running em too.

[Pmcg]

I'll give it a try.  What is the full plug number?

[sandblaster]

With my recent move I've lost track of all the threads here.
I was reading yours this morning trying to get caught up and saw that you are having a hard time starting your bike.
Try a little experiment.
When it is cold, pull your spark plug out.
Attach the spark plug to the coil.
Hold the electrode of the plug to the side of the engine.
Have someone kick the bike over like they mean business and make sure the electrode is touching the engine case.
Watch and see if it take 5 or 6 kicks before you see any spark.
Let me know what you find.

[Motorrad]

Mzb

[sandblaster]

Mzb

I'd like to rule it out before he wears his kicker out or gets mad and chucks it off a hill while trying different things  

[Foxx4Beaver]

I thought he already had an MZB hooked up...maybe not.

[Pmcg]

Hey guys. I have a visible spark from the plug just by moving the kicker with my hand. Ce had some issues with the mzb timing and was able to get the bike kick started with stock electrical after maybe 20 kicks. But then the fly wheel key sheared as I was a bone head and didn't tighten the fly wheel enough. My plan is to first get a new key and then dial the bike in with stock ignition. The lectron tuning and mzb settings at the same time make it difficult.