2001 KX500 Kawasaki Supermoto

[sandblaster]

My engine work continues at a agonizing pace..... 
Here's the next phase of the clean up for the engine cases.
After making sure that all the gasket surfaces were as clean as I could get them (Pretty clean) I lapped them.
I have to admit that I would never have tried it because how can you lap engine cases together without ruining them?
Then Yodarad turned on the light for me.
First, you need some Timesaver lapping compound, some ATF, and a case bolt that is long enough to go through the cases without bottoming out.



Mix up the time saver with some ATF and apply it to one of the case halves.
I found it's easiest to do it on a rag so that the bottom case does not slide around on the table.
Then, take the other case half and place it over the other case so that they are sitting flush as they would be when you assemble the cases.
The Timesaver should be squishing out a little.
Then take the long case bolt and run it down one of the holes but DO NOT tighten it.
Then grab the other end of the case and lightly wiggle it back and forth about 1/4".
After about 30 seconds or so, remove the bolt and put it at the opposite end of the case and wiggle the cases about 1/4".
Then remove the bolt and continue to move the bolt around the cases in a star pattern.
You will most likely need to apply a little more Timesaver at some point.
When done, clean it up and then put the to halves back together.
Mine fit so tight that when I touch them together you can feel the air squishing out
Then pull them apart and you can feel the vacuum sticking them together
Thanks again to Yodarad for the great idea!

[Motorrad]

just standard practice...       well for me. 

[sandblaster]

Yodarad...

[Motorrad]

now dont forget to do the same for several other parts of the motor.

[sandblaster]

Head to cylinder and cylinder to cases.... Do you do anything else?

[Motorrad]

Head to cylinder and cylinder to cases.... Do you do anything else?

with timesaver... no..


I do lap the flywheel's to the crank.      AND install them with retaining compound.  (my flywheels dont slip)

[sandblaster]

Nice.
When you get back I'll ask some questions about that   
Now go have fun and come back with some awesome riding stories..

[sandblaster]

I was discussing tire and wheel sizes at another forum.
Previous to this I was going to use a 4.25" rim with a 150mm tire width.
Then someone chimed in with using a 5" rim width.
That would flatten out the tire crown which should make it harder to switch directions when cornering but could get more tire contact at extreme cornering angles depending on the exact tire model used.
Like all things, it's a trade off...
Then it was suggested to use a aprilia sxv swingarm with a 165mm tire and a 5" rim..
So, I looked at some pics and it has promise.
Guys on the CRF450R's are using them.... Hmmmmm......



If I could find one cheap enough I would get it just to verify fact from fiction 

[sandblaster]

Here's a nice little chart I found:
4.25"-4.50" rim=150 to 155 tire
5.00" rim=160 to 165 tire(+ a few very special SM specific 170 slicks)
5.50" rim=170 to 180 tire
6.00" rim=190 to 200 tire

[sandblaster]

Here's a pic of the bike I got the swing arm info from.

[sandblaster]

I think this is about as far as I want to trim the side covers.
Just enough to match the exit angle of the modded muffler...



New pipe is installed...
License plate is installed....
Charge the battery and hopefully take it for a ride tomorrow weather permitting...

[sandblaster]

I'll be building some wheels for this bike sometime this summer 
I'm going to use a 150mm (5.9055") for the rear tire.
So, I have the option of a 4.25" or 5" rim.
A 4.25" rim will cause the tire to be more rounded on the profile whereas a 5" will flatten the profile out.
So, A 4.25" rim should allow the bike to turn quicker from one direction to another, but the 5" might have a slight advantage in the contact area.
Which would you choose and why?

[sandblaster]

Here's the packaging for the temp gauges.



I made a simple mount out of a piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum.
Drilled two holes and bolted it down.



I used the peel and stick method to stick the gauges to the mount, only I did not use the tape that came with the gauges as it is too weak.



I mounted these the same way I did on my K5SM, head temp on the left, water temp on the right.
It would be hard to mount the water temp on the left because they don't give you a lot of wire to work with.
Now I just need to finish the wiring and take this beast out to the dunes...

[sandblaster]

I've been working on the exhaust port polishing..
What a job.
Check out this casting flaw...



It's the same on both sides...

[Motorrad]

Here's the packaging for the temp gauges.



I made a simple mount out of a piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum.
Drilled two holes and bolted it down.



I used the peel and stick method to stick the gauges to the mount, only I did not use the tape that came with the gauges as it is too weak.



I mounted these the same way I did on my K5SM, head temp on the left, water temp on the right.
It would be hard to mount the water temp on the left because they don't give you a lot of wire to work with.
Now I just need to finish the wiring and take this beast out to the dunes...

Mmmmm    coleslaw ham turkey.             


the casting flaws in a K5 jug will make your head sping, and have you running in circles.

warning, you have to just leave some of them...