Author Topic: Fork guru's  (Read 4045 times)

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Offline Purpletj

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Fork guru's
« on: March 08, 2010, 05:18:55 PM »
I'm doing a complete rebuild on the forks and have a question. How do you remove the axle asembly on the lower fork tube. Are they pressed or unscrew. Here is a picture for what im looking at.
"When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it seems like two hours. That's relativity." -- Albert Einstein

Offline KXDINO

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2010, 10:09:53 PM »
you don't have too remove it for a rebuild

Offline Purpletj

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2010, 01:04:33 AM »
it is leaking
"When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it seems like two hours. That's relativity." -- Albert Einstein

Offline SCKawi500

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2010, 12:29:03 PM »
I didn't remove that section from mine when I rebuilt my forks, I did remove the 14 MM bolt at the bottom to facilitate cleaning.

Offline BDI

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2010, 12:38:32 PM »
Do not remove that.
Smoke every cigarette like It's your last and ride like you stole something!!!

Offline drewh14

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2010, 01:18:07 PM »
Never heard of anyone separating those two. Are you sure its leaking? or is it just dribbling down from the seal, and pooling around there, making it look like its leaking from there instead??

Offline Purpletj

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2010, 01:53:16 PM »
there is oi seeping around the chrome tube and the axle leg. yes it has to come apart. How do I do it???
"When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it seems like two hours. That's relativity." -- Albert Einstein

Offline DoldGuy

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2010, 02:07:43 PM »
You DONT remove!

If it leaks there it needs to be replaced. They are not made to come apart.
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Offline Purpletj

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2010, 04:10:40 PM »
You DONT remove!

If it leaks there it needs to be replaced. They are not made to come apart.


My best Gomer Pyle Voice  "Gooolly" Is that threads I see??? I think I proved some one wrong. I knew it would either be pressed or threaded. Alluminum and steel don't just bond together magically.
"When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it seems like two hours. That's relativity." -- Albert Einstein

Offline KXDINO

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2010, 05:56:56 PM »
they usually only take them apart if they are leaking. all you want to change the bottom offset, when i was at race tech they show us how to do it but i would never do that in a normal rebuild all revalve.  tell us how you go but you've got to use locktite when you put them back together.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2010, 12:30:18 AM by Danger4u2 »

Offline Danger4u2

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2010, 12:32:10 AM »
How did your hold the fork leg to unscrew that part?
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Offline Purpletj

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2010, 06:56:11 AM »
To get them apart there is a set of holes at the top of the tube. simply insert the proper size punch into both holes making sure there is no slack and simply twist the bottom axle housing. At the beginning of the thread i stated it was leaking. Thats the only reason i have completely disassembled. the plan was just to do a seal change but never it works the way you intend it to sometimes. hense the reason for a complete teardown. It will be sealed with threadlock and may also order a new o-ring inside the housing as well.
"When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it seems like two hours. That's relativity." -- Albert Einstein

Offline DoldGuy

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2010, 04:20:40 AM »
You DONT remove!

If it leaks there it needs to be replaced. They are not made to come apart.


My best Gomer Pyle Voice  "Gooolly" Is that threads I see??? I think I proved some one wrong. I knew it would either be pressed or threaded. Alluminum and steel don't just bond together magically.

Purple,

I should have stated they are NOT to be taken apart by average joes such as my self (Like my Timex Watch). Yes, they do come apart and you should have had a difficult time getting the slider out of the base as I have been told they use an epoxy when they are assembled. Have a set of forks setup by Factory Connection and the Sliders are Ti Nitride Coated with the Base Lugs powdered coated & know they had to come apart to do so, but also know that there should be something mean & nasty holding them together as there is nothing holding the slider to the base other than the threads (it simply could unthread itself/that would be BAD). Spoke with our local suspension guy here earlier this week & he said if he has to remove the slider he will use Green Loctite & use the Peen to keep it together. I would some how scribe the slider & base to confirm that it does not turn & Check occasionally to be sure. Keep us posted on where you find your O-Ring and how everything works out.

And yes Gomer, I am proven wrong everyday. Just ask my wife  :-D


KXDino,

During your tenure with Mr. Thede what did you guys use to keep these together? Just the loctite? Did you also Peen the Base Lug? There is a local company here that does the different coatings for the sliders (alot more affordable than the Suspension Companys) and would like to know what they use.
Its Never too Late to Have a Happy Childhood!

Offline KXDINO

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Re: Fork guru's
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2010, 05:25:37 PM »
Doldguy
 rachtech like red loctite.
no the didn'y peen the base lugs usually the cross screw on the side off the base helps holds them togethere, funny thing is i noticed on my 98 k5 it only had one on caliper side, yet the later kx's kyb on the 125,250 have them on both side, yet wp on ktm 450 08 has none, as owe showa's on kx 250f 09 doen't have them ether, usually thy say to heat the base where the loctite is then unscrew them.
i can't quite remember what he said was best for the coating, but i prefer to get valving right for your type of riding, because it cheaper then. Interesting! we had a kx 450f 07 DLC coating starting to dissappear from it leaking fork seal and riding on a sand track.