throttle adjustment vs idle adjustment

[95formula847]

i was tinkering with my carb today trying to get my bike to idle. i took a look at the throttle cable where it meets the grip. Theres an adjustment there with a lock nut. Mine is all the way in... could this cause it not to idle? I was gonna just test run it but its started pourin down rain. so sry if its a no brainer question.

[dangerous dean]

even with no throttle cable it should still idle,try using the screw on the carb and if that dont work try adjust the mixture screw,i have slack at the top due to not liking being thrown around when i move around on the bike

[95formula847]

i took the spring all the way off the idle screw and no matter where that screw is at it does not change the idle at all. It just shuts off after a few seconds.

[dsrtrider]

just to clarify; my clymer manual calls the black screw on the carb with the spring on the outside (that you adjust with your fingers) the "idle stop screw".  the small screw below this "that you adjust with a small screwdriver) is called the "pilot air screw".  i jhave tried rotating these screws while bike is on and really doesnt seem to do anything.  What does the pilot air screw do? It it also suppose to affect the idle?

[kxpegger]

If your bike is jetted properly and in good mechanical condition both adjustments will actually perform carb adjustments. Not trying to be a wise ass!

[hughes]

See attachment photo. The adjsutment at the throttle tube is for throttle free play. You should have spec amount of slack in the throttle cable.

[dsrtrider]

thanks

[mr.5thou sand]

do u got free play on throttle. is idle screw all the way in. is air mixture more than 2 1/2 turns out. try dropping the pilot jet in side the carb sorry if im a little late

[BDI]

Do not adjust your idle with the cable. This could be dangerous, it could cause the bike to rev when you turn the handle bars. Only adjust the idle with the idle stop screw and use your adjustment on the cable for the throttle free play only. After you adjust the throttle free play turn your handle bars lock to lock with the bike running in neutral to make sure your bike does not rev up and down when the handlebars move left to right.

[Friar-Tuck]

95 formula,
  Here's a link to an Eric Gorr carb tuning atricle,
 http://www.cyclewerksracing.com/Carb%20Tuuning.htm
It will explain a little more about the circuits
 in your carb, what they do, and how to start adjusting them.
Sometimes even when you do, do everything "According to Hoyle", Murphy's law steps in and mucks things up.
   I've had carbs with worn slides, P.O. Modified needles and off brand jets that I fought with for days.  Hang in there,
 Tuck \o/

[Uzi9mm]

#1

i was tinkering with my carb today trying to get my bike to idle. i took a look at the throttle cable where it meets the grip. Theres an adjustment there with a lock nut. Mine is all the way in... could this cause it not to idle? I was gonna just test run it but its started pourin down rain. so sry if its a no brainer question.

I had the same problem that went through a couple stages trying to fix.  I had the idle screw all the way in etc....  First thing I did was post my prob on here.  Everyone said to clean the carb and check jetting.  I read about guys using a longer bolt to get the K5 to idle but I wanted to fix the problem.  When I got my bike the previous owner was using ALOT of Belrays Air Filter oil.  There was a bunch of oil in the carb and boot.  I cleaned the carb, and checked the jets.  My bike came with a 55 pilot, 168 main and 3rd needle clip.  So, I tried a couple different pilot jets.  I went down to a 48 just to get a little idle.  The bike would idle for a minute but die if you didn't rev it.  And, I was worried that a 48 was too lean.  Everytime I pulled off the carb i would find oil in it.  Again and again I sprayed out the carb and all the passages with carb cleaner.  So I trashed my old filter and the Bel Rays filter oil.  I bought a new UNI and a oil/cleaning kit.  The oil is light and the cleaner works great.  I use 100LL and Bel Rays H1R @ 32:1.  After the filter deal the bike idled better and longer before it would die.  Not fixed yet tho.  I was still finding oil in the boot.  And my bike still didn't want to idle.  Go to next post. 




 

[Uzi9mm]

#2

i was tinkering with my carb today trying to get my bike to idle. i took a look at the throttle cable where it meets the grip. Theres an adjustment there with a lock nut. Mine is all the way in... could this cause it not to idle? I was gonna just test run it but its started pourin down rain. so sry if its a no brainer question.

The guys here recommended that I check the float level.  I turned the carb upside down and the seam was parallel with the carb body and the valve spring decompressed.  Finally, I replaced the floats and float valve.  I took the bike for a ride and checked the boot.  No oil this time.  I'm no mechanic but here's my best guess.  I think either my floats were a little heavy or the float valve was leaking a little.  Allowing the bowl to fill up too much.  I think that gas was getting sucked into the carb throat and running back into the boot when I was riding.  The gas would evaporate leaving the oil behind.  Then the oil was getting into the carb passages.  Once in a while i would get some overflow but just a little.  After a tank of gas my bike started to idle so fast that I had to turn it down.  I also returned to a 55 pilot.  My bike idles fine now.  Good luck.     

[95formula847]

now that i put a new topend on the bike it idles fine. im thinking the idle issue was from having 75 psi compressions