Author Topic: Magura Hydraulic Clutch (Read 3520 times)

Sharc · « **on:** August 27, 2003, 06:20:30 AM »

Anybody tried the hydaulic clutch kit from Magura...? I'm thinking of trying one out. No problems with the stock clutch, just like the hi-tech stuff.

Sharc

ShanMan · « **Reply #1 on:** August 27, 2003, 07:42:56 AM »

I have a buddy that rides a CR500. he swears that the thing reduced the pull effort by 20% and doesn't fade under any conditions. I suspect the same would be true on a KX5. I have heard others say that the real benefit is not the reduction in pulling force required so much as the fade resistance that they prefer. I found lubing the cables and using a good clutch perch made the biggest difference (read HUGE), although I have not ridden a bike with the hydro clutch to compare first hand.

Rick · « **Reply #2 on:** August 28, 2003, 02:43:13 AM »

My son was given one to try on a Yamaha 4-stroke he was racing at the time (I know, yuk

, but he was getting the bike and parts for free, and only stayed on the bike for 6 months, after which he returned to a KX500

), and had nothing but problems. The biggest problem was that the slave cylinder rod kept breaking. Getting the part replaced was nothing but touble, as the manufacturer kept saying the slave cyliner was not aligned properly, which caused the rod to break. The only problem with this explanation was that the slave cyliner mount did not adjust, as the mount simply allowed the slave cyliner to float, providing for changes in angle as the clutch arm was actuated. Also, the manufacturer could not guide us through what they would consider a "proper" installation. The end result was that we tossed the hydraulic unit, and went back to a clutch and the good adjustable Fly perch made by Fly.

Would I buy one to install on my bike? Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha.... Yea right.

Spend the money on a stock clutch cable and the good Fly perch. You will not be disappointed.

Rick

Sharc · « **Reply #3 on:** August 29, 2003, 06:15:55 AM »

Hmmm...That's not the first report of reliability problems with that same part that I've heard. Think I'll steer clear of the juice clutch. Thanks for the info.

Sharc

Paul · « **Reply #4 on:** August 29, 2003, 06:26:33 AM »

Lets not forget re-routing the cable to get that nasty kink out of it

Quote from: Rick

Spend the money on a stock clutch cable and the good Fly perch. You will not be disappointed.
Rick

demographic · « **Reply #5 on:** August 29, 2003, 07:19:07 AM »

I have heard of a lot of slave rod breakages from a few folk in a Motard board

I wouldn't touch em with a bargepole

Sharc · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2003, 07:47:38 AM »

Nasty kink...? Where's that....? My 2002 has a nice metal sleeve on the clutch cable curve just before the actuator arm area....Is that where the kink used to be, or is there another...?

Thanks

Rick · « **Reply #7 on:** August 29, 2003, 09:44:34 AM »

If you follow your clutch cable from the perch to the arm, you will notice that it snakes it's way around both radiators, and through the frame. All this creates addition friction, which results in additional pull harshness. To reroute the cable, here are the steps:

1. Remove the clutch cable from the bike, and leave the front number plate off for now.
2. place the metal clad lower section of the cable into a large vice, and SLOWLY close the jaws. The intent here is to gently straighten the curve so the clutch cable can be routed directly in front of the shifter side radiator. Check several times to make sure you do not straighten the metal tube too much, as it is tough to go the other direction. The key here is to install the cable on the clutch arm at the transmission, and have the cable go just to the inside of the front of the radiator with about 1/2 inch clearance.
3. Once the metal tube is modified properly, run the cable in front of the frame downtube, behind the number plate and to the perch. As a note, your handlebar bend, and model year will change the cable routing from one side of the steering head to the other. For instance, on my 2002, I have really tall bars, and my towers were custom made to give me an extra 1 inch rise. As a result, my clutch cable never changes sides of the frame. However, on my 1999, the cable was a little longer, so I ran the cable on the front brake side of the frame before it turned to go to the clutch perch. The required routing as you go behind the number plate will be obvious.
4. Using good cable ties, hook the cable to the bottom radiator mount loosely

, and to the downtube about 1/2 way up, again loosely. Check the clearance to the exhaust pipe, as well as the bottom of the front fender as you turn the bars. The cable should not touch either the pipe or the fender.

There you have it. After completion, you can see why the new routing method is sooooooo much better than the original routing.

Hope my explanation is easy to follow, but if not, just ask a few questions, and we'll get you there.

Rick