2000 kx250 questions?

[Actionman]

I'm in the process of restoring a 2000 kx250 and I need counsel.
1. What is the size of the shock shafts?
2. Can a sub frame,  gas tank, and seat from a 98 fit a 2000 model? ( I like the looks of the 98)
3. How do I measure piston to cylinder clearance? Mine has a sleeve and the old piston is a 66.4mm;  when I Insert it onto the cylinder it's so tight that I have to forcefully push it back out of the top of the cylinder with a wooden dowel. It j just seems tight to me.
4. If I use wheel bearings,  the inner hub spacer (the long spacer inside the hub between the bearings) and the axle/adjusters from an 05 kx250, will they work with the 2000 swing arm?
Thanks For any advice!

[redcouch]

Have you tried referencing part numbers? I don't know the answers to your questions, but this is how I usually solve similar problems.

[Actionman]

Yeah, I've put dozens of hours into part numbers and such but as to the sub frame and plastic theyre all different so I can't really know whether they'll fit. I may just buy the rear axle and bearings and try it if I can get them cheap enough. I'd really love to know the shock shafts size though; I can get a non-specific bottoming bumper for $11 if I knew the size. If I specifically order a 2000 kx250 bumper it's $22, and I'm pinching every penny to get this bike running . Every dollar I can save is important as far as chassis and suspension so that I'll have more for engine work.

[Moto-StyleMX]

Dude, the subframe etc will not fit... they had a frame change in 1999.  Why would you want to go back in time with the look of your ride?
For the piston clearance, if you're using a wooden dowel to hammer the piston out, and don't see there's a serious problem, you really should stand back and let someone else tackle the engine...
With the spacer, no, again, models were changed in 2003, different width swing arm.
You can cross reference these parts through any online Kawasaki Fische.

[Moto-StyleMX]

For the bottoming bumper, shaft size really shouldn't matter, 1mm too large, no problem. 1 mm too small.... they're a rubberised plastic, just gouge it out a little.  Saving $$$, sometimes you have to get creative!

[sandblaster]

I'll get you a shaft size later today

[sandblaster]

16mm chrome shaft size.
Look here:

http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=830

[Actionman]

Thanks! I'd already went to race techs site and checked the part number:) for anyone else with question about fork sizes or shock sizes, go to race techs site and look up whatever bike u need. It tells fork size,  shock shafts size,  etc.

[Actionman]

Dude, the subframe etc will not fit... they had a frame change in 1999.  Why would you want to go back in time with the look of your ride?
For the piston clearance, if you're using a wooden dowel to hammer the piston out, and don't see there's a serious problem, you really should stand back and let someone else tackle the engine...
With the spacer, no, again, models were changed in 2003, different width swing arm.
You can cross reference these parts through any online Kawasaki Fische.

because I don't care if it's an old look; I simply prefer the look of the 98 model.  As to pushing(nowhere did I say hammering) the piston out with a dowel:I assure u I am proficient at engine repair lol. I'm simply saying that I seem to remember the last bike I rebuilt about 24 years ago the piston seemed to go through the cylinder from bottom to top smoothly (but still needing a small amount of force). This is while testing the cylinder off the bike and piston not connected to the rod of course. This kx seem very tight in the bore at the very bottom,  and with pressure on the (old!) Piston it will go to the top if the bore but seems to have a large amount of drag. The rings check out fine at the top and muddle if the bore as well.

[Actionman]

I'm just wary of this iron sleeve; the cylinder bore is beautiful (the bike had a blown rod big end bearing), but I'm wondering if the 66.4mm piston might be a tad tight for the liner.  Is it advisable to possibly step back to a 66.35mm piston to give it a little room for the iron liner ? This might all be moot since I may just buy a new oem cylinder but for future reference I'm curious.

[Moto-StyleMX]

Yeah dude, I'd be getting that cylinder professionally checked. The piston, without rings, should be sliding through there as smooth as Oprahs big butt on a bar stool.
Maybe they can give it a rebore? If it's been sleeved without Nikasil, you'd be good to go. Getting a piston maybe an issue... a little research on that.

[Actionman]

Thank you for the replies. I think that the previous owner Sleeved it and then it wasn't ridden long before the bottom end crank bearing blew out.  I'm wondering if the sleeve actually is sized at a stock 66.4mm size.  I'm also wondering if the piston was so tight that it maybe attributed to the big bearing exploding due to overheating. I'm not a sure until I mic the bore but I haven a clue as to where I'll find a tool to mic it. I may just bite the bullet and buy a brand new cylinder to remove the variable of the Sleeve from the equation.  Before I decide I'll check and see if I can get by with a smaller piston such as a 66.3mm or 66.35mm.

[Moto-StyleMX]

eBay or Craig's list, should land you a cylinder... There's some honest guys out there, hopefully you'd be on better ground.

[don46]

The 2000 Kx had a 20 mm axle, 2005 has a 25mm axle so you could make it work in the wheel but it won't fit the swingarm, and if your creative and handy you could make it work, not sure why.  You need to mic the piston and cylinder to see how much clearance you have and then determine what type of piston you have, cast or forged. Forged requires more clearance, you can then find somebody with a rigid hone that could clearance it for you, it almost sounds like the bore is tapered if it gets tight at the bottom.

[Actionman]

I've decided to just buy a brand new cylinder. As to the swing arm,  I'm leaving well enough alone for now. Thanks!