The thing I like about the Zip Ty , the blocks stay on the bike when you remove the axle. If you look at the block on the right you can see where the bolt goes into the block. The slot is where the c- clip goes in and around the bolt to retain it in the block. When removing the axle there is no need to undo the chain adjusting bolts. The set I bought for KX500AF (KX450F chassis) has plastic pulls. The set I bought for the 2004 K5 years ago are made of aluminum. The front pull is great for the front axle on the KX450F but not needed on the KX500 because the axle is removed with the wheel from the forks.
The small rounded aluminum part (axle guide) fits into the nut end of the axle to help center the axle when you stab it into the hub. I used a little silicone to help keep it in the axle. It's a tight fit but the silicone makes sure it stays. The alum. cone goes in past the cotter key holes so I drilled mine. Obviously you can no longer use a triangle kick stand on right side if you use the axle guide.
One thing to mention. The kit comes with a roll pin so you can pin the axle block to the shark fin/brake caliper carrier.
DON'T do that.
The brake caliper carrier must be removed from the swing arm when removing the wheel because the knobbie tire will not clear the brake caliper.
KXpegger do you use a torque wrench? I always use a torque wrench when I'm at the comfort of my truck or shop.
It's real easy to over torque the axle nut.