Help With Broken Chain adjuster

[GDubb]

I'll add this little note... Be very careful using never seez on aluminum parts. It may not "eat" aluminum, but the added lubrication on the threads makes it VERY easy to strip out aluminum threads so pay extra special attention when torquing things down.


-G

[Johnniespeed]

While we are sorta kinda on the anti-sieze topic, I would like to add to it. I have found on automobiles that using either anti sieze or caliper lube on the slide pins on automotive calipers (even though it should ) does not work out very well. I think the heat from the brakes dries out the anti sieze or caliper lube and if left alone long enough the moisture from snow or rain eventually caused rust and the slider pins will stick.  But by using high temperature wheel bearing grease ( that is not supposed to be used in this application)
you will find the caliper slider pins will stay free for years.
  I have chosen to use the wrong product that provides the best results.
  Also as probably everyone already knows,when two dissimilar metals make contact ( steel bolt to aluminum swingarm/chain block) an electro-chemical reaction occurs known as electrolysis. And the chance for corosion or siezure is very high, those anti-sieze products work great to prevent this.   John

[Friar-Tuck]

 Johnnie,
 In reference to the antiseize drying out, is it feasable to mix the anti-sieze with your bearing lube?

I've been thinning out this old  nuclear grade Anti-Seize can with WD-40.  
I had gotten this several years ago and just sitting on the shelf  the oils started to separate and lay at the top of the product.
After mixing up the stuff already in the can with a screwdriver, I scoop a small amount out of the can and thin it out in an old jar lid and apply with a brush.  I rekon it ought'a work with high temp bearing lube also.  It may also cut down on the
  electrolosis,  ( if you don't have the stuff with copper instead of nickle/chrome..)  ?
  Tuck \o/

[Johnniespeed]

Friar Tuck
 I actually have tried mixing anti-sieze with wheel bearing grease and it does thin out the product, but I dont know if it will stay thin or separate. This is mostly trial and error stuff, where I try something and see the results a year or two later. I have found that WD 40 dries out quite quickly and have learned that is is actually a water dispersant, thus the initials "W D "  I am currently using PB Blaster for penetrant and it seems to be the best penetrant,I have not tried Kroil -oil penetrant, but have heard it is very good. I also really like using "Tap Magic" in stead of engine oil when tapping threads, they make Tap Magic for aluminum threading as well, works better than oil.  Try it you will like it.
  Sorry for straying from the broken chain adjuster topic, but this stuff is distantly related, to broken bolts and the prevention or repair.
  It's too cold to ride the KX now and the snow is not quite deep enough to ski.
  John