Author Topic: Front end likes to "wash out".....  (Read 7673 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

woodsy

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2003, 05:18:05 PM »
Rick:
Thanks again for ALL the help!  I had the 5 out all day today (included some the of narliest, root infested stuff around).  Put another 120 miles on her and only had one slight flaw the whole day.  Believe it or not, I actually had an understeer stituation on a real tight bermed corner!  It almost felt good (just knowing that it will now understeer!).  
I am know going ride it for while (while saving my coins for those new springs).
I left my race sag alone and probably will for the time being.  When I set it up (when I first bought it) the stock rear spring came out at just under 4" with 1" static.  I have now got 4 and 1/16 so it looks pretty good!  Setting the sag on this bike is easy to get at  (I have been removing the sub frame/air box - is that how you do yours?)  but kind of a hassle to do alone - like I always end up doing :)  I will probably follow your advice and leave it where its at!
Anyway, thanks again!
Scott

mikesmith

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2003, 08:40:52 PM »
Have you thought of trying Pro Circuit pull rods?They keep straight line stability,but quicken the steering.

Rick

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2003, 06:52:18 AM »
On the pull rods, I have thought of using them in the past, but never wanted to lay down the coin.  I know Destry uses them, and I talked with him a little about the attributes.  I will probably install a set at some point.

On the rear sag adjustment, the correct method is to remove the rear sub frame and use the special wrenches to turn the sring adjustment nuts.  Too much work, and I want to get on the trail.  I switched to using a long punch, on which I ground an angle to better bite the tabs on the nuts.  It works much better than the ol' screw driver, as the flat surface ground to an angle does not mangle the tabs.  I also use a black permenant marker to mark one of the tabs before I start any adjustments.  I note the position of the marked tab, and can then count the rotations.  If I adjust too much, I know how many turns I adjusted, and can adjust the opposite direction about 1/2 way.  If I adjusted backwards too much, I split the amount in half again, and adjust in the original direction.  With this method, it is easy to dial in your spring because you always know how many rotations (or partial rotations) have been taken.  After the initial adjustment, it is simply backwards or forwards in smaller and smaller increments until you achieve the desired sag.

Have fun.

Rick

NVR-FNSH

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2003, 07:43:52 AM »
On my WR400 I can turn the entire spring to adjust preload.  Just use a punch to loosen the locking ring (upper one) and back it off, then turn the spring and the adjuster nut comes along for the ride.  Haven't tried this on the KX yet.

Brian

ShanMan

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #19 on: May 14, 2003, 07:55:30 AM »
Turning the spring is exactly how I did it on my KX5...FYI.  :D

<edit> subframe off BTW.

Rick

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #20 on: May 14, 2003, 10:31:50 AM »
Hey, never tried to turn the spring with the shock on the bike, but what a great idea.  This is the method I use when servicing the shock off the bike, so why not on the bike?  The only problem is that I have big hands, so not sure I can get my hands around the spring without taking off the sub frame.  Next time I adjust the spring, this will be the first thing I try...

Thanks

Rick

woodsy

  • Guest
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2003, 02:00:58 PM »
I have been loosening the top spanner nut and turning the spring on mine.  This does work REAL well and saves on chewing up the spanner nuts.  I doent see how it will be possible to do it without removing the subframe though - I am going to take a look at grinding a chisle to match the angle of the spanner surface for those "quicker" adjustments!
Scott

Offline KXcam22

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,677
Front end likes to "wash out".....
« Reply #22 on: November 19, 2003, 04:54:49 PM »
Woodsy,
  I have to agree with the others.  Mine responded to fork lowered at least 1/2" in the clamps (no head shake ever) and some .43 springs (i'm 210lbs) and drop the oil level to 125mm.  It also really likes the dunlop 955F tire or probably any with prominent side knobs.  Seems to plane nice when pushed too far without washing out.