Properly lubing clutch cable...how?

[ShanMan]

The clutch pull on old KreX is getting a bit stiff. I intend to put a quick adjust perch on that has a bearing pivot, but I will still need to lube up the cable (which is in great shape). What type of lube do you guys use, and how do you get sufficient amounts of lube into the cable assembly? Is it nothing more than some Tri-Flow shot in one end? What about flushing the cable before lubrication? TIA.  

[Rick]

The only way to properly lube a cable is with a handy-dandy gable lube tool.  This tool is made of aluminum, and has a rubber insert that, when tightened, snugs around your cable housing with the cable itself sticking out the end (Oh yes, I didn't mention you have to disconnect the cable from the perch).  Once the lube tool is in place, there is a little rubber connection made especially for one of those little red tubes that goes on the end of the spray lube nozzle.  Here are the steps:

1. remove the cable from the perch.
2. Install the cable lube tool on the cable.
3. remove the little boot at the motor end of the clutch cable and feed a small rag under the now open cable.  This will catch excess liquid as it moves through/out of the cable.
4. Using spray carb cleaner (test spray your cleaner on the bench to ensure it air drys quickly), connect the little red tube to the can and cable lube tool.  Spray the cleaner through the cable until it comes out the bottom end.  You might have to hold a rag securly to the cable lube tool where your inside cable comes out to force the fluid into the cable.  When the cleaner can be seen coming out of the bottom cable end, keep spraying for about 15 seconds to push any gunk out the end.
5. disconnect the carb cleaner and hold an air nozzle up to the hole in the cable lube tool.  If you don't have a compressor, scoot to your local office supply outlet and purchase a can of compressed air.  They come with a little nozzle, and will hook right up to your cable lube tool.  Shoot  air into the cable to help the carb cleaner flash dry.
6. install the tube on your can of spray cable lube (I use only cable lube spray, but some folks use WD40, chain wax, TriFlo, etc.  One small can of cable lube spray will last you until your old, so I opt for the good stuff), and affix the other end into the cable lube tool.  Spray the cable lube into the cable until the liquid comes out the bottom end.
7. remove the cable lube tool, clean up any excess spray lube, reinstall your cable to the perch, replace the bottom cable boot, and begin to enjoy your new smooth clutch pull.  

Should take about 20 minutes the first time.  As a note, I never use any cable but stock, as they stay smooth longer than any other cable.  They cost a little more, but for my money, simply work better longer.

Heck, throw some burgers on the barby, invite a few friends, throw in a crusty demons video on the Tely, and make it a cable lube party.  

Enjoy

Rick

[ShanMan]

Another excellent reply from the Rickster! If it wasn't for the fact that I would be denying others of the now published knowledge, I would simply PM when questions arise. The only other question I have now is this: are the lube tools available everywhere, and how much does one cost? TIA.  

[beastrider500]

Here you go Shanman. Our buds at MonkeyButt have one for about the cheapest price I've ever seen. Most accessory cataloges and bike shops have them for about $12.00. Well worth the price either way you go.

http://www.monkeybuttparts.com/commerce/search/products/?product_id=306&merchant_id=1280

[yzmike]

 Yes sir, yes sir, Nothing really works except that lube gizmo, it pays for itself immediatly by saving huge quantities of spray. And again, the better viscosity lubricant lasts longer. " Never less than the best"   That should be my quote, right?  I have an 02 raptor, so it is money well spent.

[Rick]

I really did try and prepare a short reply, but just didn't have it in me.  Over the years, I have taught my two sons how to work on bikes, cars, weld, construct, design, etc., and I have just always used a step-by-step process to ensure clarity.  I was even able to teach myself (and eventually others) how to play a 12-string guitar in just three months using the same logic based analysis (learned to play well enough to perform on stage at small events I might add).  I guess I'm just too old to change my thought process.

I am always happy to be a resource when I am able.

The "Riskster"

[woodsy]

Thanks for all you great replies Rick!  Keep up the good work - we are learning out here!
Woodsy

[ShanMan]

Just wanted to let everyone know that I did buy the cable lubing tool from MonkeyButt (Jeff) and it worked great! After doing an ever so slight rerouting of the freshly lubed cable, and installing a new quick-adjust Moose clutch lever/perch assembly (also from Jeff) the lever pull is VERY precise and the force required was probably reduced by 25%. All in all, I am very happy with the improved ergos and feel. So, as usual, thanks to all who steered me in the right direction...again!  

Side note: With all the wrenching I have done on this '87, and with all the KX5 recommended mods, I am very interested to ride a newer model to see just how much better (if at all) it could be than my KreX, which rode great before the mods, but should be much, much better now.

[tomasaki]

If you're really cheap, like me, and don't want to spend a dime more than necessary, here's the way I do it.  It's also fairly quick and easy.

1) Remove the cable from the perch.
2) Disconect the bottom end of the cable from the engine.
3) Wrap a piece of duck tape tightly around the end of the cable sheath, letting it hang out over the end about a half inch forming a little cup.
4) Hold the end of the cable straight up.
5) Fill the little duck tape cup with a few drops of your favorite oil (I use 10w30 or 90w).
6) Work the cable in and out of the sheath until the oil runs down into the sheath.
7) Refill the duck tape cup with oil and work the cable again until the oil goes down in.
Keep refilling and working the cable until the oil runs out at the bottom.
9) Reconnect the cable and wipe the excess oil off of the engine for the next couple of days.

It only takes 15 or 20 minutes and you stay under you're $0.10 spending limit!!!

Tom L.