stripped oil drain plug

[cbmoor]

Stripped the top end of my KX5 tonight to install a new piston and found a little play in the conrod so carried on and stripped down the whole engine. But found the gearbox oil drain was stripped and now was wondering what is the best type of repair. The thread is 8x1.25 and I have a helicoil that could work but I have also got 8x1.00 inserts sleeves and was wondering if anyone else out there has had the same type of problem and what was the best repair that worked out for them. I would like to get this right first time as there is not much room for error cheers for any input

[BDI]

Time-serts good  helicoil bad  not to mention time-serts use a smaller hole then helicoil for the same size repair.

[3Razors]

I'm in the process of doing a timesert 10m x 1.50 for my K5 drain plug.  Cheapest place I could find on online was about $60 plus 10 shipping.  It should be better than new with this setup.  I bought the bike used and the hole was already lightly stripped so I have been using a piece of rubber tubing inside the drain hole with a small bolt screwed inside the rubber tubing. Believe it or not it has held up the whole time.  Whenever I change the oil I just used another piece of rubber tubing.

[cbmoor]

Ok thanks for the input I will go with the solid inserts, ordered the conrod kit and main bearings and new crankseals hopefully they arrive soon and be up and running later this week.

[sintax]

I know its already been said, but i'll say it again. Time-sert is the way to go. I just did one of these on my GF's KDX. Took me 45 min or so. Laid the bike down on its side, used a ton of grease to keep the alum flakes from ending up in the case. Just take your time with it, keep everything perpendicular to the case.

[cbmoor]

Got the oil plug repaired my mate had some of those time inserts and we used one of them. Went for a 10 x 1.25 and made a new drain plug and shortened that!  The original plug is to long because if there is any metal debris in the oil, the original bolt pulls it through the alloy casing and strips the thread as that what's happened to mine. As the crank cases were apart it was a very easy repair and those time inserts come with all that is required and the whole job took 20 min. 

[maxfli11]

Just curious. I'm about to have to fix mine. If you do an M10-1.5 time sert, where do you get a new plug and gasket? If i read that right the original plug is M8 1.25?

[Foxx4Beaver]

Just curious. I'm about to have to fix mine. If you do an M10-1.5 time sert, where do you get a new plug and gasket? If i read that right the original plug is M8 1.25?

When I did mine, roughly 4 years ago...I went heli-coil, and was able to use the original size bolt...just had to drill the drain hole slightly larger. But...I did it with the cases split, so that I could trim the heli-coil to the correct length before "setting" it into place, so it wasn't sticking up higher than the case...otherwise it never would've drained completely, thus leaving any contaminates behind.

[Bcsnowbiker]

In the past I have used self tapping oversize drain screw available from your local auto parts store. Much cleaner simpler fix imo.
Use lots of grease when tapping and no need to split the cases.
Only downside is that you will now have a standard bolt on your metric bike.
When I just split my cases recently on my kx5 I found I have a helicoil in the drainplug that ends well into the cases 😖

[Foxx4Beaver]

Use lots of grease when tapping and no need to split the cases.

My cases were split for complete bearing replacement, so it was the perfect time to do it, strictly for the reason so it could be trimmed. 

[maxfli11]

Just curious. I'm about to have to fix mine. If you do an M10-1.5 time sert, where do you get a new plug and gasket? If i read that right the original plug is M8 1.25?