Clutch arm bearings

[hughes]

I found some info doing a search but wanted to know if someone has come up with a better idea and if it can be done with the engine still in the frame. Both the bearings and the clutch arm worn. Thanks

[John]

Hughes,

Relase the clutch cable and turn the arm clockwise, pull it up. You will be able to replace the top bearing (by scraping it) and the arm. You can't replace the lower bearing without taking the clutch cover off the engine (which you can do without taking the engine out from the frame).

You should replace the seal while your'e at it.

//John

[hughes]

Thanks

Do you mean clutch cover or left side crank case. I don't under stand why the clutch cover needs to be removed to get the lower bearing out. Thanks for your help.

[doordie]

1)One bolt long enough ,adjusted with dremel like a "leg with a foot" so you can come underneath lower bearing.
2)Washer who cover armhole.
3)Nut
4)warm air from heater to heat up the  "alu-tunnel".
5)A little patience and a good wrench and no BAD words.
6)Keep engine in frame.

LOOOOOONG time, no see John!

//doordie

[kawdude]

When I replaced the bottom bearing I could not pull it out no matter what I tried.  If I remember correctly I could not get under the bottom bearing.  I finally drilled a hole in the bottom of the bearing tube big enough for a small punch.  I covered the hole with JB weld.  It's not pretty but it worked great.

[hughes]

Thanks for the tips. I was going to replace if easy. I my start my winter tear down project earlier and wait until I pull the engine and split the cases. I am going to do complete engine rebuild this winter so I may wait until then. Thanks

[hughes]

I was thinking about this tonight watching football. The clutch arm bearings are they lubed by the trany oil or do they require grease It would be hard for them to fail with an oil bath from the trany. Mine looked dry and were worn.

[John]

Football..?

They are lubricated by the tranny oil. My bearing where shot because of petrol leaking (dripping) from the fuel tap. The petrol penetrated the oil seal and "cleaned" out the oil.

If you are planning to scrap the top bearing without removing the cover, put a bit of cloth (or soft paper tissue) in the hole before you start. The pins are magnetic so you can pick the pices up with a magnet.

I would check the arm first and see if you really need a new one. Mine was wasted, it might be that you don't need to replace yours?

//John

[barryadam]

I tried lots of special "tools" and decided I didn't want to damage the LHS case bore.  But by then I'd buggered up the lower bearing trying all these ideas.  I went to several dealers to see if they had a factory tool.  Several said they did, but when it got down to asking the mechanic, he had nothing.  One shop said they put a torch on the case and heat the cr@p out of it until they can drag the lower bearing out somehow.  I quickly snatched my case half back from that guy and said "no thanks".
I ened up going to M.C.E. racing in Vista.  Kevin has a KX500 and did a great job extracting the bearing, pressing in a new one, and fixing my cracked drain plug boss.  http://www.mce-racing.com/

I realize this doesn't help you much as it was OOF (out of frame), but clearly a bad design by Kawasaki maintenance-wise.  I think the trans oil lubes through the pushrod acesss area (not much).

Barry

[hughes]

I removed the tank so I could straight shot at the bearings. I used a puller jaws and a slide hammer I use for marine engines. About three pops with the slide hammer and both bearings poped out. Going to bearing supplie to see if they can match. I had plenty of room to get the puller jaws under the lower bearing.

[Torch654]

Good to know, Thanks.

[hughes]

A small puller jaw and slide hammer might be able to buy at auto parts stores. I am going to check this weekend.

[kawdude]

There was a dirt wheels mag that had the puller used for this work advertised in it last year.  It was about a hundred bucks.  All the pullers, I found were either not small enough or not long enough to reach the bottom bearing.