Author Topic: HELP w assembly  (Read 30223 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline 81cr450

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 887
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #60 on: April 04, 2012, 01:47:42 AM »
Thanks Guys, jsut nervous dont wanna cook the thing. Appreciate the input. DoldGuy simplified really helps with me  :-D
if I only had a pair, I could actually ride this thing

& to the people I like  FYYFF

Offline SS109

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 92
  • KDX fanatic!
'90 KDX 200 (rebuild - DONE!) - '94 KDX 250 (soon to be a KDX250af)

Offline 81cr450

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 887
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #62 on: April 04, 2012, 06:47:37 AM »
Thats more along the lines of the kind of " cheap " I was thinking. I even looked at some of the little light RC car temp testers thinking if I could hook the loop around the plug it'd read. Thanks for that
if I only had a pair, I could actually ride this thing

& to the people I like  FYYFF

Offline Marco810

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 174
Re: HELP
« Reply #63 on: April 07, 2012, 04:45:03 AM »
Here are couple pics of assembly. I have a set of old school head porting stands that work pretty good to hold the case while its loaded. A pic of why I dont like the plastic case bearing on the clutch mainshaft  & a pic of the pinned type that should be used. Also a shot on using a half sealed bearing on the sprocket side of the case to help keep the poo out, & oil in.

Could i get a part# on that half sealed bearing?. I like that idea

Offline 81cr450

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 887
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #64 on: April 07, 2012, 05:14:04 AM »
It seems to be working good I have about 6 hours on it now & still sealed up great. I was a little worried it might let oil past then build up enough to push the factory seal out, so far so good though. This list I stole from Motorrad so credit goes to him. I just added an s to the part # to get a sealed bearing then popped the seal from one side. The one you want would be 6305s.
Thanks again Dave for posting up this info on your build it saved me some $ in my build.
An additional note on bearings though , get a quality bearing , the factory Japan stuff is all good, excepting plastic cages, so if you do interchange make sure your not sacrificing quality. FAG  :evil: brand bearings are German made , my preference , Theres a brand out of Austria that evades me at the moment thats good too. China & Taiwan junk. 

Main bearings.
(NSK)  6306  ( Not sure what OEM rating is, but I run C3 rated)      X2

KIPS bearings
(NSK)  608    (Stock is a C2 rating, I run C3)   X2

Water Pump
(NSK) 608     (Stock is a C2 rating, I run C3)  X2

Clutch Pressure plate
(NSK)  6001   (Stock is a C2, I run C3)       X1

Shift Drum bearing
(NSK)  6905   (stock is a C2 I run a C3)     X1

Transmission LEFT CASE

(NSK)  6305   (I run a C3, OEM is C2)   (replaces OEM part number  92045-1011)         X1

(OEM) This is the bearing My bearing house cant get.. so OEM it is 92045-0013  X1

Transmission RIGHT CASE

(NTN)  63/22  (I run a C3, OEM is C2)   (Replaces OEM part number 92045-1134)  X1
         (special note on this bearing... ALOT of the ones out there now have a Plastic cage... Request a metal one, and CHECK IT before you leave
            I Just dont trust plastic cages in transmissions....)
if I only had a pair, I could actually ride this thing

& to the people I like  FYYFF

Offline 81cr450

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 887
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #65 on: April 09, 2012, 03:29:19 PM »
I've been jetting for days. Between the big bore pulling more fuel & the 50/50 avgas pump blend it's been a challenge. I'm running a Mikuni TMX bored to 39.8 mm so this might not help most people. What I've come up with so far is that I believe the avgas has a different weight , lighter, so it pulls through the pilot alot easier as well. I'm 4 sizes down on the pilot from what I should be on a stock motor, the main is still right where I'm used to it though. It  isnt really building heat though, I'm thinking I'll need to drop the plug to a br7es too.
Is avgas that different?
Runs real strong though. It suprised me on how far off the jetting can be & still run decent, as long as you keep it blown out. I started  with  390 main 35 pilot to be safe I'm now at a 360 main & a 25 pilot Havent messed with the needle at all , 2nd position. I think the mid being right has helped with the other 2 being off.
if I only had a pair, I could actually ride this thing

& to the people I like  FYYFF

Offline Rhyno

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 17
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #66 on: April 10, 2012, 01:01:19 AM »
.............I'm thinking I'll need to drop the plug to a br7es too.
Is avgas that different?
..................

AvGas has lead in it, and of course a higher octane.  Lead is a lubricator for the HOT exhaust valves, but Hippies don't like it.  Some places are different (95-105), but the average octane is close to 100.

I run a BR7xx plug, too.  But it is at partial throttle, trail riding.  If I were WOT more, it'd be too hot of a plug.  Works great at 4500-6500 ft.

-Rhyno
'90 K5.....

Offline 81cr450

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 887
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #67 on: April 10, 2012, 06:49:55 AM »
I should have included the elevation 5000 -10000 ft , its pretty mountainous here. If I set the main down at 5000 then ride up to 10000 I'll get the feedback on if it's too rich or not. If I get it to where its on the edge of rideable up top its about perfect in the lower stuff. It is the low range thats loading up a bit, when youre in rock hell & cant wind it out . If I can get stay in the wide open stuff  & keep it blown out it's great. Just a time consuming process dialing it in. 
if I only had a pair, I could actually ride this thing

& to the people I like  FYYFF

Offline spinyard

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 10
Re: HELP w assembly
« Reply #68 on: January 21, 2015, 04:20:03 AM »
Dredging up an old post! Any way you could re upload the pics to this thread or email directly? I'm about to embark on your same journey (2004 cr250 frame kx500 motor) after all the broken frame posts I like that you can do this without cutting the y out of the frame!