Do I need to hone my cylinder?

[medicman]

My cylinder looks good, still has crosshatch marks, no scoring.Its a steel sleve, should i hone before new piston?

[Johnniespeed]

 If that was my bike, I would buy a new cylinder, so that I could have an aluminum bore with nikasil on it.
  I think there are posts concerning sleeve problems. But someone must be able to get a steel sleeve to work,at least for a while anyway.
  Hope you are up and running soon.

[medicman]

Yea eventuly thats what iam gonna do, full on rebuild with new cylinder. But for now i need to go riding and it worked great with the steel sleeve. I gotta save 550$ for a new cylinder.

[hughes]

My cylinder looks good, still has crosshatch marks, no scoring.Its a steel sleve, should i hone before new piston?

Do you have a brown oil glaze look in the cylinder walls? If so then a ball hone will remove the glazing. Freshin' up the cross hatch is never a bad idea. Real easy to perform.

[Hillclimb#42]

 I think it would come down to a micrometer, too. The first thing that happens, when I take my cylinder in, is they mic the whole cylinder. Also the piston measurement is so many thousands of clearance to the cylinder, and that measurement is different for steel sleeve, than from nikasil. Tighter tolerances with stock.
  If I know there is not much time on a cylinder, I also visually inspect for wear. It's still sketchy, on what new rings will do to the cylinder, though, but I say "Slap it in there" If it wears out after this season, you still got your money's worth, and you plan on getting a new cylinder anyway. you can always buy an extra base gasket and check piston and cylinder after break-in and redo cross-hatching, if you get a smooth area going.
  how did the piston and rings look?

[medicman]

Piston looked good, carbon build up on the top, some brown under the rings, not sure if thats normal? small area of "scuffing on the exhaust side, but its smooth to the touch. I think Ill run it and see what happens

[KXcam22]

I usually give them a nice light crosshatch by hand using 400 wet & dry paper. After that clean the cylinder really well and you should be good to go.  Being that you have a steel sleeve and recognize that the bike will run much better with a new nikasil cylinder, I wouldn't worry too much about the cylinder clearance and have some fun riding the bike until you can get the new top end. Cam.

[medicman]

Cool thanks for your help. What would be the teqhnique of doing the cross hatch by hand with the sand paper? dry then wet? or the other way around

[KXcam22]

Wet with Wd40 as a lube.  Keep slowily spinning the cylinder as you sand with a small piece of Wet&Dry on two or three fingertips, sanding on a 45 degree angle.  Just enough to get rid of the shinyness. Cam.

[Jopiz]

How can i remove cylinder wall glazing? It's polished. No scratches that i can feel. Visible scratches though is found. Cross-hatch marks are not visible, i can see them only at bottom of the bore. Compression is good. Had leaking head, so coolant entered combustion chamber -> oil film partly flushed away. No seizure marks. Got 175 psi of pressure when i tested with compression gauge.   

-J

[mr.5thou sand]

if u have a steel sleeve bore it out

[Jopiz]

It's not sleeved cylinder so boring will not be an option. When i closely inspected the cylinder again those cross hatch marks are party visible. Does scotch brite pad work removing the glaze? I've heard some guys talking about using muriatic acid when deglazing cylinder. It's based on muriatic acid eating aluminum. Any experiences?
Using 400 grit paper for refreshing the cross hatch marks sounds pretty odd to me but that was for steel sleeves right? Dont wanna ruin my cylinder

-J

[Motorrad]

I have used scotchbrite and swimming pool acid with good luck.

[awak100]

Muriatic acid blended 50/50 with water leave it on about 10 or 15 min then wash off really good soap and water.  Wash cylinder wall pretty good before you apply