KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: queen of spodes on April 16, 2018, 03:21:47 PM
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Last weekend I met someone selling a 2007 KX250 for a price I couldn't refuse. Bike was clean and thankfully, PO had not installed Renthal swingarm stickers (pet peeve!). Bike looked good, felt good, and ran well.
I grew up in the 80s, my favourite riders were Ward, Lechein and Matiasevich (and Bailey but that's for another build). I have a soft spot in my heart for the 88 KX's, so that's where this build is heading. Maybe. Hat tip to BobPA for his '03 KX125 old-school build (https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Bike-Builds,46/2003-KX-125-Old-School-Build,1328902), which helped inspire me today.
A few years ago I restored a 1989 KX125 (https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/1989-KX125-frame-off-restoration,1276440) and frequently ran into NLA parts, so I'm looking forward to working with a machine with better parts availability.
(https://imgur.com/AHDSx1X.jpg)
Here's the bike as I bought it. Still has OEM linkage and triple clamps. Suspension has "JO Suspension" decals but I'm not able to find a shop under that name.
Dissembly pics to follow.
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(https://imgur.com/qtXseqe.jpg)
Will probably shelve the R304 and opt for a quieter Turbinecore II silencer. Loud Pipes Close Trails!
(https://imgur.com/CXPxMZn.jpg)
PPO had a chain break which then broke the center case. The welds look good, but the PO used a little patch of JB weld to fill a spot the previous repair missed. I've ordered new center cases from Kawasaki.
(https://imgur.com/nWICWeC.jpg)
Sticker on the back side of the front numberplate. Is this anyone here?
(https://imgur.com/J4orxqA.jpg)
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On order so far:
* OEM centercase set
* New UFO plastic kit
* Pro Circuit linkage
The plastic kit comes with white side number plates. Anyone know where I can get green side numberplates?
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I got my green side plates from eBay. They are made by UFO.
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Very nice bike.. Congrats.
I can't wait to see it done.
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How do these rubber tank pads come off?
(https://imgur.com/AoKPYGO.jpg)
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(https://imgur.com/XbcRxo5.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/fOvRIyA.jpg)
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Bike was filled with transmission oil when I picked it up. Rode it five laps (about 7 minutes) and the oil is way below sight glass. The coolant looked a tad bit dirty, but I am beginning to wonder if the welded crankcase crack didn't extend further, allowing transmission oil to be drawn into the chamber and burned out the exhaust.
(https://imgur.com/gz070IG.jpg)
In any case, I have new cases. Need to order new crank seals just in case. Plan to use OEM Kawasaki for anything in the bottom end. Heard enough horror stories about aftermarket connecting rods and cranks.
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How do these rubber tank pads come off?
(https://imgur.com/AoKPYGO.jpg)
The are just glued on. I had to pull mine off to fit the oversized tank on my conversion. You can glue them back on with contact cement.
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dont forget to get your rg3 triple clamps with less off set to give it more trail , less wash out in corners. :-D
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dont forget to get your rg3 triple clamps with less off set to give it more trail , less wash out in corners. :-D
$550 is too much to invest considering they won't add that much in resale. :(
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What's the best option for a replacement clutch basket? I don't care about name recognition (Hinson), just want a good option. If all of the forged options are problem free, I'll run the Wiseco.
Hinson: 151-1013 - $259.99
Wiseco: WPP3048 - $169.95
Barnett: 321-45-01014 - $233.10
OEM Kawasaki: 13095-0048 - $282.79 (die cast AL, will wear out quickly)
(https://imgur.com/jBE4LOR.jpg)
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Good for me that everyone is buying black everything for their dirt bikes these days. Picked up a set of these on clearance for a few dollars more than I'd pay for the two wheel hubs (alone) separately.
(https://imgur.com/fOxRdtk.jpg)
Waiting on a couple special tools to arrive for continued engine disassembly. Stuff I know I'm replacing with OEM part numbers:
* Connecting rod & big end bearing
* Main bearings and seals
* Shift and kicker seals
* Clutch cover (for aesthetics)
* Ignition cover (for aesthetics)
Will either use a v-force, rad valve or just get a new rubber intake boot. One on the bike is starting to show signs of dry rot.
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Cylinder head was trashed at some point. Would you have it resurfaced or buy a new one at $191 from Partzilla? Cylinder is OK.
Also does anyone know the difference between the standard part number and optional part number?
11001A HEAD-CYLINDER 11001-0107 $191.16
11001B HEAD-CYLINDER | (OPTION) 11001-0108 $191.16
(https://imgur.com/vQt8I3h.jpg)
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it wont matter which head you get , there both got to much compression the squish is ok , i get a company in australia called two stroke performance to modify the head especially the bowl area , work a lot better , no pinging , better power , easier to jet . these guys have a fuel injected yz125 up and running that flogs the carby version.
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How is the bushing pictured below supposed to fit in relation to the case surface? It almost looks like it's not pressed far enough in (sits about .5mm to the left of the case surface). Or, will it slide where it needs to be when I pull the case halves together?
(https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/07/23/276491/s1200_IMG_20180723_210455.jpg)
(https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/07/23/276490/s1200_IMG_20180723_210446.jpg)