KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX500 Steel Frame Conversion (SFC) => Topic started by: mikectanker on August 18, 2015, 05:54:46 PM
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Started this the past week. 2001 RM250 and 1994 KX500.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150818_150152.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150817_225604.jpg)
Yes I am really going to put "Kawasuki RM500" decals on the finished project.
Thought it would make people laugh until they get hit by the roost!
I am going to do everything I can to make a high quality build. Hopefully I can get it ready to ride before winter. Then I will make it look good over the long winter.
Any advise is welcomed.
2001 RM had a crank and new top end put in. Heat cycled 4 times. Motor will be for sale on ebay unless someone gets a hold of me first. I will blast the outside of the motor and make it look nice and clean. Runs great and shifts perfect. I have a video of my buddy
taking it for a short spin in my field.
1994 KX500 is pretty nice for the year. It was well maintained and greased. Only noticable flaw is a bent subframe. The rolling chassis is for sale as well.
Will post more with pics later.
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Ordered pipe today. Service Honda KX500AF fmf gnarly. At $369 plus $31 shipping i hope cutting and rewelding mounting tabs is all I have to do.
I have a longer fmf silencer on the RM250 which is slightly shorter than the KX500 and a hair bigger diameter. Hope it works out...
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Ordered pipe today. Service honda fmf gnarly. At $369 plus $31 shipping i hope cutting and rewelding mounting tabs is all I have to do.
I have a longer fmf silencer on the RM250 which is slightly shorter than the KX500 and a hair bigger diameter. Hope it works out...
That will be interesting to see how the pipe works in the RM frame. I think it should work fine, as long as it doesn't hit the subframe or have any issues mating to the silencer.
I used a CR FMF gnarly on my 03 conversion, but modified it myself. I also used a CR Q Stealth silencer.
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Machine work next week.
There are drill bits that have a shaft one size and then the larger drilling part of the bit starts.
they allow a strait and true overbore of a hole.
The rm250 swingarm bolt is 17mm calling for the 43/64 drill that many on here have used.
What is the special drillbit I'm talking about called and where can you buy one?
I put some ebay adds up. RM250 complete engine
KX500 tank super nice
Seat and rad shrouds with nice n style graphics
thats all so far.
Parts are super nice tight and clean so if you need K5 origional parts le me know.
heres a link to the seat and shrouds with a pic of the KX500 before the disassembly
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KX500-Seat-Radiator-Shrouds-and-Graphics-off-of-low-hour-1994-/171902522689?fits=Year%3A1994%7CModel%3AKX500&hash=item2806305541&vxp=mtr
ordered more parts yesterday.
MH3 Starcross rear tire $88.78 (rocky mt mc)
Dunlop mx51 front tire $52.99
2015 KX450f Cycra Stadium front number plate green (hope I can make it work...)$24.99
2015 KX450f front fender green $25.93
All bearings and bushings for the rear suspension $112
New clutch and throttle cables $27
new oem reed cage boot $40
New green gel PRO GRIPS $16
RM250 clear number plate backgrounds $11.99
fork bleeders green anodized chinese ones off ebay $7.19
Steering stem bearing kit $32.30
I am looking for the following parts
-a plain black piece of gas tank graphic material to wrap my tank with completely (even underneath)
- a clear pre cut number plate background for that KX450f stadium front plate
- clear RM250/125 radiator shroud graphics/protectors/background/whatevers
- clear 2001 RM swingarm decals
I have a vinyl cutter machine. I plan on using that to cut green chrome vinyl and put thicker clear on top. I hope it works.
What is the easiest way/site to use for uploading my pics?
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My bike has 2001 RM 125 showa forks on it.
I am not sure how good they can be made to work.
Stock 250 forks were Kayaba, but they changed the upper clamp to accept the 125 forks.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150817_225658.jpg)
The 125 forks are blown and the anodizing on the outer tubes are cracking. I can smooth the outer tubes down and wrap with colored chrome vinyl no problem. Do you guys think those forks can be made to perform great enough to be worth revalving and springing them?
I dont want to spend over $800 on forks and a whole front wheel/axle/brake setup
I will be revalving and springing the 2001 RM shock unless there is something way better that I am unaware of.
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Coolest looking throttle assembly ive ever seen on ebay. You guys think a green one will work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-YAMAHA-YZ-100-125-250-MOTOCROSS-CNC-THROTTLE-GRIP-ASSEMBLY-MR-/321815898414?var=510742064803&hash=item4aedb8e92e&vxp=mtr
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Got the k5 motor sitting in the rm frame. used k5 swingarm bolt(will need to drill the cases later.
It is amazing how close the motor mounts all are to working!
RM radiators are bigger than the k5 ones and will work easy enough.
airboot is almost a pefect fit with no mods needed.
electrical parts are bolted up in stock rm locations. no mods needed but ill make it nicer later.
I need to...
-post pics (plenty of detailed ones on my phone)
-heat and dent the frame where the front lower ignitioncover bolt is hitting and possibly re-enforce the underside of that spot.
-have the professionals drill the 43/64 bit through the cases
-line up the sprockets and shim at the swingarm.
-then set the other mounts right and shim.
- will need a new head stay with shims.
- need to move the radiators forward a hair(they are hitting the top front of the motor but bolt up)
-need to make a short 90 degree coolant elbow
i can use 1 k5 hose on the Right radiator. RM hose on the left with a elbow and small hose going to the dome.
-need to mold the tank(hitting water spout on left top of dome)
should i use hot water or my heat gun?
-need to make service honda kx500af pipe fit and then match the muffler to it
Am I forgetting anything important?
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You can reshape your tank using boiling water. I boiled water in my wife's two soup pots and then poured it in the stainless steel sink in our utility room. I put the tank minus the petcock (I built a little aluminum plate and used a bit of floor mat to block the opening off) in the water for 2-3 minutes to heat up. It becomes very easy to shape, but I would use a tire spoon or something metal to push on it because it was a bit too hot to use your hands. The boiled water will cool off pretty quickly, so I would have it marked and a general idea of how much you need before you start. Once you like where it is, run some cold tap water over it, and you're done. It's actually very easy and seemed really safe. Just like forming you sports mouthpiece. :-D
As far as the radiator mounts, I just welded up the holes and then marked a spot forward about 3/8" and drilled and tapped it. I made new radiator braces out of aluminum to keep the radiators pushed forward just a little bit. Don't push them forward too much or the hoses will kink.
Here's a link on how to post photos using photobucket. I can't wait to see pics; it sounds like a very interesting build!
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10040.0.html (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10040.0.html)
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Thanks Umberto.
Turns out I had a photobucket account from 6 years ago with 1 pic. Forgot it existed.
Should have pics up tonight I hope.
Gotta heat and smash that framerail by the front ignition cover bolt.
Do any kick start levers with more of a forward bend fit on the k5 engine?
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Just ordered more parts all from ebay but 1
-2 PIECE CLUTCH COVER ADAPTER from sandblaster $95
-New oem KX450 clutch cover $45
-KX450 clutch cover gasket $8.86
-KX500 clutch gasket $7.99
-wiseco topend kit $171.79
-fmf muffler packing $11.39
-spec bolt 120 piece RM kit $29.99
-Outlaw Racing Complete Replacement Seat $87.96
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/MIKES/RM500%20Project/20150822_022453.jpg)
-Fusion Graphix custom seat cover (white top/green ribs/green sides) $59.99 not from ebay, but fusion's website
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Bottom motor mount is close
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/MIKES/RM500%20Project/20150820_014037.jpg)
need a new head stay
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/MIKES/RM500%20Project/20150820_014127.jpg)
frame contact with ignition cover b4 heat and smash. look how close the front motor mount is to lining up
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/MIKES/RM500%20Project/20150820_014016.jpg)
No more frame contacting ignition cover
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/MIKES/20150822_1856061.jpg)
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Personally I would have spent the money on the KX :-P Those cool looking throttle tubes are just that, "cool looking". My mate bought the same one Blue and put it on his yz. It filled up with water on the first ride and seized up. He rode back to camp pulling the cable with his hand.. He may have just got a dodgy one
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Personally I would have spent the money on the KX :-P Those cool looking throttle tubes are just that, "cool looking". My mate bought the same one Blue and put it on his yz. It filled up with water on the first ride and seized up. He rode back to camp pulling the cable with his hand.. He may have just got a dodgy one
Thanks for the warning. I guess It will be a not as cool looking motion pro throttle going on it.
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Dropped the bike of at the machine shop for the swing arm bolt. pulled the clutch cover so they can use parallel blocks to get it straight and true.
Pulled the top end and it is in need of a resleeving. I am sending to Eric Gore and having him port it for usable, broader power.
Going with a stock bore. He did one of my old rm250 motors back in 2002 and it was a great job.
I am thinking about doing a compression release. I know theres a guy on here doing them that Gore recommended somewhere.
Looks like I have boyesen reeds on the stock cage. I need to find out which reed cage offers the best or broadest improvement.
All that with the service honda KXAF gnarly pipe and stock carb.
I wont have the top end to mock up with the radiators when my frame is done. I dont think it will be a problem as there is enough room to move the rads up and/or forward.
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Still waiting on the machine shop.
The 2015 kx450 front plate and fender will work. I just need to drill new holes in the fender.
Most of the other parts are in except my cylinder and some nonimportant parts.
The green chrome vinyl looks great. I'll wrap the forks and make decals with it.
seems like all the graphics today look like an add kid on acid made them. Plus it's hard to get green kits for a Suzuki.
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Front end ordered tonight. all ebay parts
-Rebuilt stock 2006 RMZ450 forks which came with .47 springs. I'll see how they feel and maybe revalve, but atleast I have my correct spring rate. pics on ebay looked great..... $310(could have went cheaper but these seemed pretty nice)
These forks had a very good rating according to the MXA test back in 2006
-2006 rmz450 front brake assembly $70
-2006 rmz450 front wheel with rotor $129
-2006 rmz450 front axle with spacers and dust covers $20
some other parts added in the past couple days
-green anodized pivot levers $28.19
-green chrome zip ties $10
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Just wanted to say thanks to Sandblaster for the 2 piece clutch adaptor and the link to making it work
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=334&start=80
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Here is a great site to look up fork info for putting newwer stuff on an older bike. http://www.tech-care.com/
I knew the 2008 rmz250 forks fit on my build since I tried it out.
I looked up forks and tests on the site. then looked up tests of the bikes focusing on the forks.
Picked 2006 rmz450 front end based on spring rates, fit, condition, and price on ebay.
The 2006 uses basicaly the same 47mm twin chamber showa set up that is on my 2008 rmz250.
I wish I knew if sss forks would work. that would have cost a bit more.
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Stock 2001 RM250 kyb shock boxed for shipping. Glad I saved the 5.6 spring off of my old 1993 CR500. Sending to Pro Action
$225 plus shipping
Going to try the 2006 rmz450 forks stock before sending them out.
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Post some pics if you have some.
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Case has been machined for the swing arm bolt. Went to the shop to look it over.
Sprockets are aligned perfect.(I did have to play with the positioning of the stock shims to get it right)
They are going to try to use the stock rm250 front motor mounts.
Just have to cut and reweld the bottom mounts.
Front and bottom mounts will need shimmed up.
Looks like all I need to do to the service honda pipe is cut and reposition the front mounting tab. Then fab for the silencer to line up and slip on.
I ordered a compression release from the Stihl dealer today $16.
Ordered a tusk oversize front rotor kit $110
oil seal kit$15
devol enduro skid plate $83.50
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Post some pics if you have some.
I am waiting to post more pics. My 1 1/2 year old
Was addicted to tractor videos while I was on the road
In the big truck last week. Data limit is close. Resets on the 7th.
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So, how's it coming along? Lots of pics needed, I'm considering doing a similar build myself, RM2250 2007/KX500 engine, so any details much appreciated!
/Lasse
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Just got home from being on the road in the big truck all week.
Also holding up the bike build is the fact that I am getting married in 8 days.
The shop should have the two piece clutch cover done.
Engine mounts are done.
I'm waiting on my cylinder from Eric Gore. I think it shipped a d he got it done faster than expected.
I need the cylinder to make a new head stay and modify the mounts on my pipe.
I am waiting on the compression release from the Stihl dealer still.
Got the shock and forks wrapped in green chrome.
Tons of new parts pretty much all in.
I need to contact rekluse and order the right clutch with the right springs.
Need to contact Scott's and get a green steering damper kit.
Need to ride the bike and figure out what bend of fast flex bars to get in green with the bent crossbar for the steering stabilizer.
At some point I am going to get more pics up.between the road and wedding. I'm not expecting to have it finished until after the 20th.
And I have a possible deal on another blown up KX500.
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Got a complete 1990 Kx500 for spare parts today from a local shop.
Motor in it is completely disassembled and needs a top end job. Crank is out and rebuilt. Has a v force reed cage.
$250 for the whole thing. So now I've got 2 rolling chassis to get rid of.
I still don't have my cylinder back, but I dropped the spare off at the fab shop. I just need to get the head stay and exhaust fabricated to work. Pics coming some day.....
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Here's the front mount. Used stock mount just shimmed.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150914_1430471.jpg)
bottom mount. cut off rewelded new tabs, and shimmed.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/bottom_eng_mount1.jpg)
engine in frame with 2 piece clutch cover
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150914_1431471.jpg)
shock before plasti coating yellow spring to black
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150903_1126531.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150903_1121371.jpg)
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How purdy is that :-o
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How purdy is that :-o
Pictures don't show how good that stick on green chrome really looks.
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Finished shock
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150915_112910_RichtoneHDR1.jpg)
Finished forks
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150915_113002_RichtoneHDR1.jpg)
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I got the bike back from the fab shop last week.
Got the front end on but had to peel some of that green chrome vinyl off of the forks to fit in the triple clamps. At 1am I never thought about prying the triple clamps open a little.
I never had to cut the pipe but I will need to dent the back side of it to clear the water spigot. They modified the front diameter of the silencer to fit in the pipe.
Got my cylinder tonight. Looks good. UPS managed to beat the hell out of it on the ride home and the 1mm head gasket got beat up a little.
The wedding held things up, and now I have a temporary health problem keeping me out of the garage. Not sure when I'll get it done, but I have everything I need to put it together and ride.
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Just got my cabbage picker back from the fab shop (last week)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150917_153139.jpeg)
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2015 kx450f front fender and plate on. I used the cycra stadium plate which has a top/center bolt hole. just that 1 bolt and zip ties around the forks hold it on. you could prob make this work on a lot of non kawi bikes just redrilling the fender holes.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_140854.jpeg)
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(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_140828.jpeg)
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(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150917_153433.jpeg)
Moved the pipe mount onto the motor mount with a spacer
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150917_153428.jpeg)
Need to dent the backside for the water spigot
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150917_153234.jpeg)
They fabbed a new front tip on the fmf rm250 silencer to fit into the pipe. I need to make thier 2 piece pipe mount into a 1 piece again.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150917_153227.jpeg)
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oversize rotor on the 2006 rmz450 forks
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_140805.jpeg)
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Pics of the finished cylinder
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141307.jpeg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141249.jpeg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141322.jpeg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141334.jpeg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141348.jpeg)
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New vforce3 (black) and a vforce 1 or 2(grey). not sure but i think the vforce 3 should work better. What do you guys think?
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141134.jpeg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141105.jpeg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/Mobile%20Uploads/20150926_141037.jpeg)
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She's coming along now!! Looks great
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New vforce3 (black) and a vforce 1 or 2(grey). not sure but i think the vforce 3 should work better. What do you guys think?
I take it you haven't done much research on here about the performance and fitment differences between the VF2 and VF3.
take a gander through this thread, then make your decision...there's tons more info on here too, just have to search...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,11799.0.html
Bike's coming along great!!
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New vforce3 (black) and a vforce 1 or 2(grey). not sure but i think the vforce 3 should work better. What do you guys think?
I take it you haven't done much research on here about the performance and fitment differences between the VF2 and VF3.
take a gander through this thread, then make your decision...there's tons more info on here too, just have to search...
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,11799.0.html
Bike's coming along great!!
Sounds like I need a vforce2 and looks like I have a one and a three and a stocker with boyesens..... crap
So the v2 is hard to find. looks like my best bet is to use the vforce 1 with a 10mm spacer. Sound right?
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I cant seem to find new vforce 1 replacement reeds. any help out there?
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You can reshape your tank using boiling water. I boiled water in my wife's two soup pots and then poured it in the stainless steel sink in our utility room. I put the tank minus the petcock (I built a little aluminum plate and used a bit of floor mat to block the opening off) in the water for 2-3 minutes to heat up. It becomes very easy to shape, but I would use a tire spoon or something metal to push on it because it was a bit too hot to use your hands. The boiled water will cool off pretty quickly, so I would have it marked and a general idea of how much you need before you start. Once you like where it is, run some cold tap water over it, and you're done. It's actually very easy and seemed really safe. Just like forming you sports mouthpiece. :-D
As far as the radiator mounts, I just welded up the holes and then marked a spot forward about 3/8" and drilled and tapped it. I made new radiator braces out of aluminum to keep the radiators pushed forward just a little bit. Don't push them forward too much or the hoses will kink.
Here's a link on how to post photos using photobucket. I can't wait to see pics; it sounds like a very interesting build!
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10040.0.html (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10040.0.html)
Tried molding the tank with water tonight. I didnt get it to budge... the bottom of the tank hits the water spigot on the head.
this suzuki tank is pretty dam thick right there. I didnt get anywhere with my harbor freight heat gun either, but I'm afraid of burning the tank with the heat gun. I havent found any detailed tank molding tips on here.
I've got to figure something out, or just pay to fab a one off 2tall kit.
Used tanks are cheap enough, and Clarke's website says they will make a new one in black.
Here goes... gonna heat the crap out of it and if it fails get a new clarke and rip off the 2tall idea.
I like the new 2tall ripoff idea the best but dam that'd be expensive.
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After some time to think and measure and think some more. I'm going to make my own 2tall knock off kit.
Ordered an RM125 air boot which reaches farther. Got the other ideas on paper
It'll work one way or another.
Sold my 250 motor for $1050 plus shipping on ebay recently too. Bought the RM for $1400.
I pulled the adds for the Kx500 parts.. with the extra motor I'm considering making it an original kx 500 snow bike. It snows pretty good where I live around Erie PA but nothing like out west. That might be next year's project.
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Got the tank reformed with the heat gun. Heres the rough mock up of the bike. No 2tall rip off yet...
A few minor parts missing, gas tank not blacked out yet, frame needs painted, needs finished graphics........
A lot more pics coming soon
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_040657.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_040621.jpg)
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Holds water after heat gunning. I used sockets with an extension to push on the hot plastic. Then held it there, set down the gun and hosed cool. gotta hose it or the tank just goes back
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_031744.jpg)
Right side
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_032720.jpg)
Left side
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_032705.jpg)
Right used kx500 hose just had to trim it a little
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_031653.jpg)
left side. 1 big and 1 small straight hose. used a brass 90 degree barbed elbow. brass elbow had to be cut a little.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151002_031714.jpg)
Used this aluminum flat stock to move the radiator mounts on the frame up and forward a bit so the bottoms will clear the head.I will also be adding spacers for extra clearance side to side between the rads and head.will need 2 longer crossover hoses
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20150929_214753.jpg)
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It's ready to ride. Not finished yet, but ready to ride.
Waiting for photobucket and YouTube uploads.
Stock carb with Boyesens in the stock cage and fmf system. Eric Gore porting and Cam2 at 40:1. Sounds real good to me while it's running! Been 16 years since my last 500. Had to learn how to kick again!
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(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151007_232312.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151007_232335.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151007_232405.jpg)
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Things yet to do..
-put the new tires on
-make graphics
-get the right bar bend
-change gearing. Currently 14/45
-get rekluse
-get steering stabilizer
-set sag
-tie up some loose ends and loctite a few things.
I changed that 2 piece radiator hose for a 1 piece long 90 degree bend from the auto parts store and cut it down. Used those plates to relocate the rads up and forward. Between the plates and radiators I put 3/8 inch nylon spacers in for head clearance. Put longer crossover hoses on. Currently the bottom radiator shroud mounts are zip tied. I'll make a little drop bracket someday.
I'll use my gopro in the field tomorrow and upload. I can't go on a real ride yet due to a health problem.
I can't go to work either, so I might as well play with dirtbikes in the garage.
Any advise on pure mx gearing is welcomed!
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I run 14/47 on almost all tracks
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1st ride gopro. Not a great video but its alive. 1 minute of kicking and a stall at the end with a failed bump start!
https://youtu.be/HF_XhLoWxoE
(https://youtu.be/HF_XhLoWxoE)
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I run 14/47 on almost all tracks
I think I'm goining 14/48 or 14/49 with cheap steels and a good narrow o-ing
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She sure did turn out nice man keep us updated with your impression and any issues you have. Awesome job!!
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Shroud decals done. I have a cheap vinyl cutter and a roll of that green chrome material. I put clear graphic material over top. Turned out pretty good.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151013_041915.jpg)
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I still need to do something with the front fender and fork guards. Maybe Kawazuki on the swingarm instead of kawasuki.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20151015_141852.jpg)
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Picked up a few more parts.
Green renthal twinwalls even tho I wanted fast flexx bars.
tusk bark busters
Ordered Alwards kips bolt mod today.
New chain and sprockets 14/49 (the 45 tooth that came on the RM wheel was no good for me)
On the to do list is to grind down a set of steel clutch plates to make room for 1 more friction plate.
thenh opefully a kx450 rekluse will work corectly without creeping. Gotta give credit to Tom at enduropilot for the idea.
I am still looking for bar mounts that are offset by 10-12mm
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The bike is looking really nice. I like what you've done with the green chrome tape on the black plastic. Have you made any new riding videos?
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Thanks. No new videos as winter is in the way. Probably gonna ride the 250 1st ride or 2. I will post a video of the Rekluse with pics. Might be a month or two
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Got any more pics of Eric's porting work? I would be willing to bet he just ran a bur through the transfer ports and called it good. At least that's what happened with my jug I sent him.
However nice build! love the green chrome, and the kick starter looks like it's made to fit into the tank like that
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Got any more pics of Eric's porting work? I would be willing to bet he just ran a bur through the transfer ports and called it good. At least that's what happened with my jug I sent him.
However nice build! love the green chrome, and the kick starter looks like it's made to fit into the tank like that
Thanks. This things been on hold since fall for several reasons, but hopefully will be done by June.
I can ride it but it's just not set up the way I want yet.
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Had another thing pop up to hold my build up. ...
Picked up a really nice PW50 for the little guy.
Someday I'll get this thing done....
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Blew up my ported cylinder with the steel sleeve. It siezed.I'm not sure if it was bored correctly
For the forged wiseco piston.... anyhow I put my stock cylinder on with a pro x piston.
Doing a little break in today.
The 14/49 gearing and adding Alward's kips bolt mod are working fing awesome!
Going for a woods ride today and can't find the gopro. Should have a video the next day I ride.
My rear hub is toasted. Had to torch a sprocket bolt out. The whole wheel is in bad shape like the whole chassis was. 2 owners ago the RM was owned by a guy who tightened the cap out of everything. Except the spokes which never saw a wrench.
Thinking about warp9 wheels with green hubs and rims, silver spokes and nipples
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That stinks about your cylinder. It's lucky that you had the stock cylinder to put back on. When I was having my cylinder sleeved, Millennium told me that they could also plate sleeves after repairing any damage. It might be something to consider on down the road. If you do get it replated, I would recommend contacting Sandblaster or Alward25 for a Wossner piston to send along with it. The pistons are as nice as everyone says they are, and they are not expensive when compared to the other forged pistons (within a few dollars).
Can't wait to see your ride video.
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Blew up my ported cylinder with the steel sleeve. It siezed.I'm not sure if it was bored correctly
For the forged wiseco piston....
that sucks...been there before.
just curious...did you check to see if the sleeve was sticking above the cylinder?...all it takes is a couple thousands, and the head gasket won't seal....which allows coolant to leak into the cylinder, basically steam cleaning the cylinder walls. I had this happen to a KX250 several years ago that I had sleeved...it never seized, but I was using coolant steadily for a few rides, and it tore up my top end pretty good.
The other thing that crossed my mind was, did you check the piston to cylinder clearances before you put it together?
Post some pics of the piston and cylinder if you get a chance.
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The strangest thing was that the top end was coated with grease on the dome and top of the piston. I've never seen that before. I didn't check the clearances but the next guy who touches my cylinder will also be selling me the piston.
I've heard that the steel sleeves don't hold up as well to hard riding as a stock cylinder wall would but idk..
I'm just glad I got to ride some muddy trails around home and the bike worked great.
I Need to get to the track and test the suspension better.
Leak jet on the 250f is plugged so the 500s prob going to the track first.
Fertilizer hauling season is starting to get balls to the wall so I'm not sure when I'll ride again
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grease could've come from the air filter to boot seal...sucked through, if an over abundance was used...not sure why else there'd be grease in there.
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No signs of anything oozing down the air boot tho.
It blew up on Lucas oil. I switched back to am soil dominator.
This is the first 2stroke I've had in 10 years. Still beats the costs and bs of the four strokes.
It was running rich on the low rpm.
The only thing I can figure is the cylinder wasn't bored a little more for a forged piston.
I'm using the RM radiators which are larger and hold more than the k 500 radiators. I don't think the different radiators could cause a problem.
I can't put a pic up of the top end since im on the road in the truck but my most trusted local shop owner said he'd look at it for nothing.
Got to drop the 250 f carb and pw50 carb off anyhow.
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added renthal twinwalls and tusk bark busters (with 7/8 mounts).
i cut up an old handlebar and mounted the bark busters to the crossbar.had to grind the threaded part of the mount to angle things right for the crossbar mounting. Literally a hack job on the bark buster mounting but it seems solid.
Those are pro grip street grips hidden there somewhere. i like the full gel and larger diameter.been running those for years on other bikes. heres the 1st link i found to the grips (photobucket is a pain in my @$$) http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900023787
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160313_125107.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160313_125036.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160313_125004.jpg)
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I noticed on efm's website in the FAQs it says you can still use your clutch lever..... I sent them an email.
Sure would be a nice alternative to trying to make a rekluse work.
I thought the EFM eliminated the clutch lever but it says here... --> http://www.efmautoclutch.com/faq.shtml
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I noticed on efm's website in the FAQs it says you can still use your clutch lever..... I sent them an email.
Sure would be a nice alternative to trying to make a rekluse work.
I thought the EFM eliminated the clutch lever but it says here... --> http://www.efmautoclutch.com/faq.shtml
Got an email back from Garry EFM. I asked if he could do a kx500 and keep the use of the lever. Here's what he sent back.
As long as the clutch pushes to the outside we can maintain the manual lever
On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 6:24 AM Garry Buzzelli <garry@efmautoclutch.com> wrote:
We modify the clutch you send us 695.00 plus shipping
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I also emailed moto tassinari about reeds. Good news. here's their reply
Bad news is I have a gray vforce that is not a vforce 2... idk what to do but my carb fits tight with the stock carb.
There is a crossbar in the frame that wouldn't let me use the vforce by 1/4 inch. So its mod the frame or run the stock cage with boyesens.
Hello Mike,
The depending on which valve you have the part numbers are below. Unfortunately we do not offer these petals via our online store, so you will have to call us at (603) 298-6646 between 8am-12pm and 1pm-5pm to place an order.
Delta 1 Black reed cage: DP120
Delta 2 Gray reed cage: 2P127
Regards,
Moto Tassinari
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Got 1/2 of my homemade 2tall kit done today.
I had some 2 inch diameter pipe and cut 2 3inch lengths.
Cut 1/3 of the pipes so they were U shaped to sit on top of the original frame backbone.
TheN used a 1x2inch piece of rectangular tubing for the rear of the tank to sit on.
I only have an old buzz box stick welder. I sucked at using it but luckily someone I know stopped by and made it look easy. Put the stock rubber pieces on top and it fits real nice.
I will use the stock mounting bolt hole on the frame for the gas tank. I used two pieces of 1.5inch mounting angle from tractor supply in place of the stock angled brackets. .
Now I just need to get the sub frame welded with 4 1 inch drops and extend the silencer mounts 1 inch.
This will also result in tipping the top of my carb forward allowing more room so maybe I can slip a vforce in there. I have a 125 air boot in case I need a little more reach but don't think it will be needed.
Also ordered a rear wheel from warp9. Just all silver parts. Really wanted green but then I would have to buy both wheels. The front wheel is really nice so I decided to save some money.
Can't wait to see how it rides with a better clutch pull and ergonomics that fit me better.
Thinking about used pegs from a 2003 or newer bike since they will make more room for my size 12.
The newer peg sat 10mm farther back. If that isn't good enough then the shifter and rear brake pedals will be chopped and extended.
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Clutch arm lengthened. Pulls a little better but I'm grabing a hydraulic setup used when I can.
Got to mount the 1 inch taller sub frame back up. I should have pics and a ride report by the end of the weekend.
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Here's the 1 inch lift kit/home made 2tall kit. Tank/shrouds and seat/subframe are all 1 inch higher.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_231616.jpg)
The steel ruler represents the new path of my knee from having my knee straight above the foot peg to sitting way forward.
I can now glide along the line of green chrome without jamming my knee in the holes and screwing up my knee brace positioning.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_231838.jpg)
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Here's how it was done. By no means is it a work of art, but it works.
3 spots where the tank sits on rubber spacers. cut some 2 inch tubing in the right spot so it was "C" shaped for a 1 inch lift.
then used some 1x2 rectangular stock for the bottom of the tank to rest on just like stock but up an inch.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_211316.jpg)
Made 2 drop brackets in place of the stock black plastic mounts on the underside of the tank.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_214215.jpg)
Added a key ring on the rubber strap....Hey it works and its hidden under the seat.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_222426.jpg)
Top subframe mounts dropping down an extra inch
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_220113.jpg)
Right side bottom subframe mount (I gotta clean and trim that ugly crap up but it'll work for now)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_211144.jpg)
Same thing on the left
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_211235.jpg)
Silencer mounts from both sides
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_211127.jpg)
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_211110.jpg)
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Here's the extended clutch arm. Approx 5/16 inch added
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r593/mikec265/20160324_163431.jpg)
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Ride report. Adjusted the needle to the leanest setting and went 1/4 out to 2 turns on the air screw.
Still needs a leaner pilot jet to crisp the low rpm. Currently a 55 pilot. Plug is nice and brown/tan.
Roll on power is way better from the bottom of 2nd gear coming out of turns.
Sag is set at about 90 mm with the forks dropped all the way.
I want to try 100mm of sag but the bike is hooking up great and I'm not sure if I want more Traction.
Turning feels great but I need to play more with handlebar positioning.
I need to get some time on the mx track and see how it does.
Shoundn't have any bottoming issues with the suspension.
My neighbor has a tight little track and it felt good on little doubles and sIngles.
Felt good to ride a little and adjust levers and jetting. After a long winter I'd like to ride the 250f a few times and get into shape but the carb is being fixed up.... so 500 @ the track it will be tomorrow morning or Monday afternoon.
R
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I might add a flywheel weight. I've never tried one before.
How do you guys like a flywheel weight for mx with these motors?
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Just ordered the Chinese hydraulic clutch kit on ebay.
I saw some guys on thumpertalk had good luck with them. Just got to cut my new grip off and make a little adaptor. For $40 I'll make it work like the guy did on his Kx250. I doubt I can get the grip off with the goo I used
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What main jet and needle are you running?
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What main jet and needle are you running?
Currently 1994 pwk stock carb
Air screw 2 turns out
Main jet 178
Pilot jet 55
Needle 82R (stock)
Clip in top/leanest position
Fmf gnarly and fmf Rm250 silencer
Stock reed cage with Boyesens
Stock 1990 cylinder
Prox flat top piston
1mm thick moose head gasket
Alward's KIPS bolt mod
BR8ES plug
40:1 am soil dominator
1/2 Cam2 and 1/2 pump gas (110/91 octane=100.5)
I'm not sure but I think one step leaner on the pilot and needle should be perfect with an air screw adjustment.
Any advice is welcomed.
Not sure if it's worth putting my vforce 3 on in place of the stocker.
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Currently 1994 pwk stock carb
Air screw 2 turns out
Main jet 178
Pilot jet 55
Needle 82R (stock)
Clip in top/leanest position
that's some bizarre jetting for a stock carb....what elevation and air temps are you typically running in?
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Motorrad's standard base point recommendations for a stock carb are...
main...168
pilot...55
middle clip position with a stock needle
1 1/2 to 2 turns out on air screw
you will more than likely have some fine tuning to do...as I had to run a bit leaner to those base settings with a stock carb.
I was running..
main...168
pilot...52
N82T needle in 2nd from top(leaner needle)
1 3/4 out on air screw
I'm only at either side of 250ft above sea level.
I myself, and others on here have found that dropping down to a 52 pilot makes a huge difference, especially if doing a lot of slow speeds...like trail riding...cleaned it right up.
Everyone's will be a touch different, just due to elevation/air temp/motor mods/style of riding....just remember to go in small increments at a time, and only change one thing at a time.
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1000 ft +\- 200ft sometimes higher. All those jets were in the carb when I got it. I've never been a master of jetting but it seems ok. I think there's room for improvement. It was 55 degrees yesterday testing a little bit.
The fmf jetting recommendations for a 1994 carb at 65-80 temps 32:1 at sea level. ...
Main 175
Pilot 58
Needle stock (82R)
Clip 2nd position
Air screw 1.5 out
The main jet sizes vary from 175 to 165 on the fmf sheet that came with the pipe
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yeah those charts tend be on the "fatter" side....because they don't want to be responsible for anyone blowing their motor, for suggesting too lean of conditions....so they keep it on the "fatter/safer" side.
There's a few threads on here referring to charts, and most guys say, that they end up pretty far off (leaner for the most part) from what the charts suggest.
Motorrads base line settings are the better ones to use.
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I am also from PA with elevation in the same area as you. Also running a Gorr motor, FMF pipe and silencer, stock style reed cage with Boyesens. Although my motor is 88mm bore and carb is bored to 40.5mm running straight VP fuel.
I think you may find yourself in the range of 50 pilot 168 main clip in the middle with the airscrew 2 turns out. Not saying for you to go with these exact jetting specs but I do believe that this will have you close.
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I am also from PA with elevation in the same area as you. Also running a Gorr motor, FMF pipe and silencer, stock style reed cage with Boyesens. Although my motor is 88mm bore and carb is bored to 40.5mm running straight VP fuel.
I think you may find yourself in the range of 50 pilot 168 main clip in the middle with the airscrew 2 turns out. Not saying for you to go with these exact jetting specs but I do believe that this will have you close.
Thanks. I'm not sure why but for some reason the 1994 carb seems to have a higher number pilot jet.
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Got my rear wheel from warp9. Had to send it back.
I ordered a 19 inch wheel but an 18 inch showed up.
Chinese hydraulic clutch showed up.
So busy with trucking I don't know when I'll get anything done on the bike again.
Going for a jog with the pw50 on a leash is about the current extent of my moto activity.
The little guy wants nothing to do with the 6 volt dirtbike, but loves the pw50
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what color/combo wheel and hub?
I've actually been considering picking up an 18" just for x-tra tire choices.
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what color/combo wheel and hub?
I've actually been considering picking up an 18" just for x-tra tire choices.
I ordered all silver so i could be cheap and have it sort of match my stock front wheel.
It looked great and tough as hell, but i have a new 19in tire for the 19 inch wheel i ordered.
So nice i thought about keeping it and getting a 18 inch tire
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they are great wheels...I've had mine for 4 years now, and they're still in awesome shape.
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Finally went to the track today!.... only to find out my head is probably bad.
Fired the bike up and coolant kept spewing out the radiators overflow.
This dam head is probably what caused my ported cylinder to seize.
When I swapped cylinders I used the same head.
So time to order a head gasket and use the other head..
I don't have time for this... but some day I will start testing my suspension out and get it right.
Also my service kx500af pipe seems to be melting the ignition cover. May need to buy an aluminum cover.
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Almost got it back together. Had to pull the whole engine just to swap heads.
Supposed to rain for a few days. Maybe I can have some luck and ride on some fresh moist dirt later this week.
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Ready to ride again!
Jetting changed, new head gasket, and brand new tires.
Gotta find some fresh dirt for the new tires.
I can't waste the new knobby edges at a cement dustbowl.
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I finally have a ride report on this thing!
Went to my local track today.
Jetting felt spot on from idle.
Bike handled just as good as a Suzuki should in the turns.
I need to add 1/2 inch of sag and play with the shock settings a little. The shock was kicking a little more than it should. Wasn't as stable as an RM could be on fast rough straights. I think Pro Action did a really good job on the shock, but I need to fine tune it a little.
Forks felt great!
Brakes felt great.
Ergos are good.
I'm unsure about my gearing currently at 14/49.
I only went out for 2 or 3 laps 4 times.
Had to call it a day when my out of shape arms started becoming prone to wiskey throttle.
I didn't get the gopro out because I'm so rusty it wouldn't be worth watching. Hope to ride next weekend and maybe get a decent video up.
Overall I am very happy with the build at this point.
A hydraulic clutch, auto clutch, and steering stabilizer will put the finishing touches on it.
It will be a while for that stuff since trucking is a little rough right now and I'm trying to grow the business.
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Vid-e-o! Vid-e-o! Vid-e-o!
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Got the shock set better today. Rained yesterday and the local track was disced up nice.
This thing feels perfect. I over jumped a double which is part of a pretty big triple, and my bars rotated into my lap but every thing felt great on the bike. Now if I could just hang on longer. ...
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Good news- just ordered up everything to make my RM250 match with green and white plastic instead of green and black.
Bad news- Not enough time to fix my bike hauler or go to the track. Little things going wrong because it never gets driven. Work will be slowing down before July at some point to go ride. Going 2 months without a day off to play with dirtbikes sucks, but I get a lot of time off after spring. Gotta get that auto clutch and steering damper still to 99% finish the 500. Bikes are never 100% finished.
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Bikes are never 100% finished.
That's the truth...
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Gotta get that auto clutch and steering damper still to 99% finish the 500. Bikes are never 100% finished.
Which auto clutch are you going with? Bikes are never done; I think that's part of the fun of owning them.
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Going with the EMF auto clutch eventually. Its expensive, but I don't think there's another good option out there.
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The one I have in the KDX hybrid bike works really well. The way they add the centrifugal parts to the outer hub instead of removing plates should make it a lot more durable in a K5. Plus the K5 model will allow you to use your clutch lever still. My KDX model did not, because the lever pulls on the hub while the K5 pushes.
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No clutch lever on any bike would seem too risky for whiskey throttle.
I hope the durable part is true. I left the extra space when my 2 piece cover was fabricated. Just got the wife a gently used car with 21000 miles so I should be clear to blow a couple grand on bike parts this summer.
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Well played sir, well played.
The KDX doesn't have a ton of power, so whiskey throttle isn't a big deal. :-D