KX Riders
Maintenance & Technical => KX250 / KX125 => Topic started by: queen of spodes on August 23, 2014, 03:16:14 AM
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Earlier this year I bought a project bike not knowing what all I would get into. I've asked for some help along the way but thought I'd share a few pics of the bike before I got it and now that I am working on it.
Here's the bike from the Kawasaki brochure:
left side
(http://i.imgur.com/wFILbi5.jpg)
and the right side:
(http://i.imgur.com/jaSBFD2.jpg)
I have no illusions about my resto coming close to showroom quality, but I hope to get it in the same ballpark.
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Here are a couple pics from a previous owner.. from what I learned this bike had been passed around to a couple people after being rescued from a bad owner. Nobody wanted to dive in, and after taking it apart I see why!
note the 88 graphics on the radiator shroud
(http://i.imgur.com/7JvJ3Kw.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/emoCHEp.jpg)
Next, strip down
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Some close ups of years of abuse/neglect
Doesn't look so bad here?
(http://i.imgur.com/Lpd0Gt7.jpg)
Check out that sprocket!
(http://i.imgur.com/jRzHV4l.jpg)
right side. engine was drooling fresh oil from somewhere...
(http://i.imgur.com/DPa8Txa.jpg)
swingarm was dirty but serviceable
(http://i.imgur.com/FgJnv9t.jpg)
footpegs & mounts trashed
(http://i.imgur.com/bmHfD0V.jpg)
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Carb & boot crusty
(http://i.imgur.com/1dBHU2u.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/I66DJba.jpg)
lots of corrosion here, but the bike put out a nice fat blue spark
(http://i.imgur.com/0Rlc1kn.jpg)
orange RTV, tell tale signs of shade tree mechanic
(http://i.imgur.com/ly3fcHV.jpg)
clutch pack looked pretty good considering the outside of the engine and frame
(http://i.imgur.com/gLJpmfD.jpg)
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had to grind down the sprocket welding to get the cases apart
(http://i.imgur.com/JMIqze5.jpg)
no idea what was going on here... the more i looked at this bike the less I tried to think about it. haha.
(http://i.imgur.com/64zpoug.jpg)
source of the oil leak - cracked drain plug threads. have to find some different cases...
(http://i.imgur.com/aupIYvB.jpg)
crank and rod looked ok and spun freely. sending it off to get rebuilt with OEM conn rod & bearing kit
(http://i.imgur.com/8ioTnZJ.jpg)
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Found some cheap cases on Ebay.. they were painted forest green. The side I needed is in decent shape though, so I just need to get these soda blasted.
(http://i.imgur.com/PBBeAlq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3cA90bG.jpg)
ok setting the engine aside for the time being...
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Here's the gas tank that came with the bike.. it was pretty grimy and a little stained. I picked up a nicer tank on fleabay (not pictured)
(http://i.imgur.com/QotbJa1.jpg)
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Ok so now I move on to the forks. More WTF goodness would be discovered...
89 kx's had the nice 46mm conventionals.. a lot of people ran these into the mid 90s (chunking the USD's that came on early perimeter frame KXs). good forks.
But look closely at the axle holder on the right leg. see anything?
(http://i.imgur.com/55Gmqtq.jpg)
Let me enlarge that for you...
(http://i.imgur.com/BFigNsW.jpg)
Previous owner had a 87 or earlier front wheel mounted up.. those wheels had smaller axles.. so they used their "ingenuity" to make this penny spacer to hold the loose axle in the 89 legs.
(http://i.imgur.com/0taB6YD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/thx0cfm.jpg)
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Got the legs off and disassembled on the work bench. NOTE I wrote up a how-to on this process - click here for Thread #2 (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,12806.0.html). You will need a special tool to get the legs apart. I have pics of the tool, where to get it, and how it works - just follow thread #3 (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,12382.msg104166.html#msg104166).
(http://i.imgur.com/6zcwYMl.jpg)
First set of forks in storage:
(http://i.imgur.com/87af7O7.jpg)
Found a second set of legs that looked a LOT better - picked them up and broke them down too so I could pick and choose the nicer components from both sets
(http://i.imgur.com/Vo1NRPZ.jpg)
Internals were pretty descent on both legs so I went with the ones that looked a little cleaner.
(http://i.imgur.com/WmEaWwq.jpg)
Rebuilt and ready to install
(http://i.imgur.com/KGkA2Hz.jpg)
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Shock looked crusty and abused. Removed spring and sent to a Race Tech service center here in GA.
ps if you have tips for a better way of removing the spring please reply & give details
(http://i.imgur.com/eBGzLB1.jpg)
shock ready to be shipped off
(http://i.imgur.com/savG6uq.jpg)
shock received back from Race Tech service center with next to no packing material inside. Shock was sticking out of the box when it arrived. I was not impressed after having spent about $250 getting it rebuilt.
(http://i.imgur.com/LzYBQFK.jpg)
Need to get the original spring blasted and powder coated.. but thats for later.
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Linkage that came with the bike was frozen up pretty good.
(http://i.imgur.com/6eJR63x.jpg)
Luckily I spotted a set on Ebay that was fully disassembled. Good for rebuilding
Pressing out the bearing races
(http://i.imgur.com/b3OOdxy.jpg)
Shock mount was rusted up pretty good.. had to press this little one out (wouldn't come out with my vice)
(http://i.imgur.com/Bfqh5IK.jpg)
Got all of the bearings replaced and this piece is ready to go
(http://i.imgur.com/sxdLELS.jpg)
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Linkage mount on the swingarm was tricky. Got the sleeve out using this tool
(http://i.imgur.com/dKGovPN.jpg)
But the bearings had to be pressed out.. took a bit of care and force to not damage the swingarm. Had the same problem getting the pivot bearings out.
(http://i.imgur.com/AHzpOv2.jpg)
Ready for new bearings (to do - working on this today I hope)
(http://i.imgur.com/NiXC9Hn.jpg)
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Back to the engine for a post..
The top end looked OK except for a broken post on the LH exhaust valve. This led to a big search for a replacement, or maybe for a repair. I posted a thread on VitalMX's Old School forum and got some help. The VitalMX thread is worth reading.. lots of options listed there for getting a power valve for these old bikes (the power valves are NLA and nearly impossible to find as NOS). Here's that thread: http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/Custom-machining-an-obsolete-NLA-power-valve,1270119
Here's the top end with exhaust valves removed
(http://i.imgur.com/vk4lc6X.jpg)
Sent my cylinder & head off to PowerSeal a couple weeks ago and hope to have it back soon.
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A couple months ago I got the frame stripped and ready for some repair & powder coat
(http://i.imgur.com/QsgA0uB.jpg)
Had a local machine shop fix the right side footpeg mount (which isn't replaceable like the left side)
(http://i.imgur.com/gSn6Akq.jpg)
I regret not having them fix the brake pivot mount.. completely overlooked that (after powder coating).
Dropped frame off at PCC in Atlanta
(http://i.imgur.com/CrXb32V.jpg)
and got it back a couple weeks later
(http://i.imgur.com/ny7wcUa.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lzvYSKh.jpg)
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Got some new plastic and OEM replica graphics in a few weeks ago.
(http://i.imgur.com/PYOGup9.jpg)
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awesome job!...thanks for sharing your progress.
it's nice too see someone do a full resto and aim for the clean OEM look.
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+1!!! Had an 89 kx125 growing up, loved that thing! Wish I still had it way more dependable than the early 90's
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This arrived today
(http://i.imgur.com/krbvQRL.jpg)
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Swingarm and linkage bearings replaced.
(http://i.imgur.com/ESP7D5Z.jpg)
Newly plated cylinder came in last week.
(http://i.imgur.com/60opbEg.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sZxw2B2.jpg)
Carb and calipers cleaned up nicely:
(http://i.imgur.com/F3ohGIE.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3gfGSth.jpg)
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Still working out how/where to get a 6mm blind bearing puller. The HF kit I have came with a min 7/16". Even the Motion Pro kit only goes down to 8mm. Several boutique tool makers sell 6mm collets but they are spendy ($100 or more for the single tool, that I'd only use a few times in my lifetime).
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I've used a dremel tool on light duty bearings. A couple cuts and they came out but a lot can go wrong.
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Queen, Is that the swingarm u started with that I can see in pic at start of thread?
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Queen, Is that the swingarm u started with that I can see in pic at start of thread?
Yes, but I cheated a little.. it's been powder coated. :D
The other parts were soda blasted. Haven't shown the cases since they came out less clean that I hoped. Still figuring what to do there.
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See if anyone in your area has a vapor blaster. It may be called a vapour blaster or a aqua blaster.... They will look better then new...
Here's some examples
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=815 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=815)
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Vapor blasting uses glass beads and water - knew that before reading your post. :) Everyone says to avoid glass or sand (or any other hard media) for cleaning cases. Glass bead media (in the water slurry or separate) will get lodged in teh material and come out later to slowly ruin engine internals.
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Yes, sandblasting does embed particles into the surface of soft materials because it cleans by impact.
Vapor blasting cleans by flow, not by impact so it is ideal for soft materials, even very thin soft materials as it will not heat up the material being blasted.
In fact, vapor blasting was developed during WW2 for the aircraft industry just for this purpose.
The nearest company to me that has a vapor blaster is a helicopter company and they use it for cleaning aluminum, brass, bronze, magnesium ect.
I will be doing some experiments to prove or disprove it's effectiveness when I get mine installed and operational in a few weeks.
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Premature fitment of frame & swingarm:
(http://i.imgur.com/3KeWZ53.jpg)
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Very nice...
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that looks sweeeet :-D
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Got a box full of NOS Kawasaki bearings & seals and am getting close to bottom end assembly.
1) still need to remove that 6mm blind bearing. (Edit, forgot that someone posted a pic and instructions for a homemade tool out of threaded rod (http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,13231.0.html)).
2) I'm using case halves from different bikes (same 89 kx125 model though). Can someone point me to a lapping tutorial *for cases*? Do I need to get some glass to do this on? I don't want to get a second set of cases from messing up the lapping. :)
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Not sure about the bearing someone might have an idea but this is from Sandblaster
Yep, about 1/2 way down this page:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=376&start=40
Case lapping
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Not sure about the bearing someone might have an idea but this is from Sandblaster
Yep, about 1/2 way down this page:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=376&start=40
Case lapping
An inmate at ADVRider urges caution (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25047783#post25046796). Thoughts?
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Sure, don't sit there for 20 minutes sawing back and forth in the same spot :-D
You do one bolt for about a minute, then move the bolt and do that one for a minute.
Keep moving the bolt around in a star pattern.
When your done the vacuum will make your cases stick together 8-)
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I followed ur Instructions helping my mate with a rm 250 miss matched cases that leaked and we both very happy with result Like u said dont stay in same spot for too long
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It works so easy that you don't think it's doing much.....
But it does.
Thanks goes to Motorrad for turning us on to the stuff...
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From the ADV thread, did you experience any clearance or alignment issues with bearing cutouts? Or were you using matched cases?
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I have used matched and mismatched cases with zero problems.
In fact, I did a 01 cr125 right case with a 91 cr125 left case about 4 months ago.
It worked marvelous 8-)
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I pulled out the cases last night to check gap. My smallest feeler gauge is .008" and it won't slide in - but I do see some light coming through the gap. I also matched up the original case (with broken drain plug) and it too had a little light shining in but not much.
I'm thinking a very light touching up with the lapping compound will do the trick. Some good karma was passed my way thanks to Sandblaster, so I should be able to get the lapping done next week (or maybe before depending on how quick mail runs).
Plan to drop by home depot to pick up some small diameter threaded rod tonight.
Question - I do want to finish cleaning up the cases a bit. The soda blasting got a lot of crud/dirt off, but there are spots that are black (the guy said it was carbon). What's the best (cheapeast) way to get that stuff off? Would a polishing wheel on my dremel tool work with some metal polish? Do I need some fine grit sandpaper? I don't want to mar up the finish nor do I want the cases to turn "chrome".
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Easier than expected!
1/4" threaded rod, had to grind it down a little then notch with a hand file. I used a hacksaw to get a little reverse bite on the edge.
Used a tiny allen wrench to put in the bearing inner race behind the puller rod, to keep it snug.
(http://i.imgur.com/Q9t2ib9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jwVRLdj.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5Fqe5ze.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ScnHBzX.jpg)
I also used a little MAP gas (only 4-5 seconds). Used a socket to knock it out.
(http://i.imgur.com/gnKlGxL.jpg)
One more to go, hope to get to it tomorrow:
(http://i.imgur.com/teujFGM.jpg)
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Nice job.
It's amazing what a little ingenuity can do for you when you really want to make progress but don't have the right tools..
And as always, heat is your friend... 8-)
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since I am restoring an 89 kx125 and I am a powder coater that owns every type of blaster including a wet blaster. I can tell you the way to get those cases clean is to chemical strip them and then if not clean enough aqua blast with bead. Bead is very different than most media because it is round it wont impregnate and it has a soft rating than say aluminum oxide, slags or even crushed glass.
but the answer is industrial powder coat stripper. if you were local id let you put it in my tank
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I know of a powder coater with that kind of remover. It won't etch or ruin the AL finish? How long would you leave them in the tank?
I was about to get to work with a drill. felt pads and polish today.
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Down to the last small bearing. This one is located across from the water pump. Almost no room to get my homemade tool behind the bearing race.
(http://i.imgur.com/sLK6LXF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fhi0Pl4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/X18axXn.jpg)
Does the tool need to be paper thin? To be continued.... :evil:
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:?
(http://i.imgur.com/Di5En2i.jpg)
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Here's a thread (http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=11982) on KDXRider.net with some suggestions on getting this tiny bearing out.
Just tried heating the case, putting some cold compressed air on the bearing, then tapping it out with a deadblow (while holding case). No dice.
Will try to fab up another edge do that again. After that I don't know what to try (without damaging the case).
:/
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Second time was a charm.
Didn't make the lip of my second tool as wide. put a little more heat around the bearing (and on the back side of it).
(http://i.imgur.com/xYOl34c.jpg)
Now to clean these case halves up a little more.
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What caused (causes?) the pitting I'm showing on one of my case halves? Is this something to worry about? None of the divits are very deep, and the case thickness is not at all in danger.
Curious to know what these are exactly, and if it is something I need to be especially concerned about.
(http://i.imgur.com/rMtFz38.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aR2qx1i.jpg)
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that could be a combination of/from corrosion...and just plain ole porosity from a s**ty cast from the factory....if it's held up this long, I wouldn't be too concerned....providing the bearing journal is still good.
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Looks to me like there was a bit of water that sat in there for a while.
As long as the mating surfaces are good, you should be ok.
Using good glass media in the Vapor or water blaster is the way to go.
If the metal is really bad you will have to glass blast it first.
The Vapor or water blaster will remove the impregnated media so I have been told.
I will of course test that theory when I get mine :-)
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as rare as parts are for this old bike, I probably won't use it as a guinea pig. From all I've read, the glass media will partially lodge itself in softer metals (AL) and work its way out later.. causing cylinder scoring, premature wear, ect. Maybe the water/glass slurry makes the difference.. maybe. I guess one way to test is to blast a broken case, then literally grab a microscope to check for evidence.
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An airplane mechanic acquaintance of mine had this to say about the photos above:
Motorcycle parts are notorious for casting pits, so my guess is that's what this is. You can use 80 grit by hand, maybe 120 with Dremel on slow, to evenly remove material and see if pits diminish. If you start seeing more then STOP as it's definitely casting voids. If you manage to get it cleared up with the 80 or 120 then finish out with progressively finer grits until the finish you want. You can apply an alodine or similar solution to further protect the surface.
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yup...porosity.
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I'm less concerned about how the inside of the crankcase looks.. don't need it to be purty. but do want to stop the corrosion if it is ongoing.
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as rare as parts are for this old bike, I probably won't use it as a guinea pig. From all I've read, the glass media will partially lodge itself in softer metals (AL) and work its way out later.. causing cylinder scoring, premature wear, ect. Maybe the water/glass slurry makes the difference.. maybe. I guess one way to test is to blast a broken case, then literally grab a microscope to check for evidence.
Yep... that's what I'm gonna have done.
I know someone who knows some one at the U of O.
Also, I have the backyard testing method...
If when using this....
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=579)
It does this...
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=580)
And when you rub your fingers together it is gritty....
That is bad :-)
I spent several hours getting all that gritty stuff out of mine after bead blasting...
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=581)
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I'm less concerned about how the inside of the crankcase looks.. don't need it to be purty. but do want to stop the corrosion if it is ongoing.
It's not going to corrode any further as long as you don't mix water with your fuel.
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Think I'm going to bail on this right side engine case. Crank seal surface is corroded - see the big hole where the tool tip is? Not sure I want to chance this engine on a suspect seal surface.
(http://i.imgur.com/RfpyVrV.jpg)
Ugh. Getting burned out with the nonstop hiccups and unexpected expenses.
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While the original matched case is at a shop being repaired (oil drain plug collar broken), I'm gathering stuff I'll need to assemble the lower end.
Kawasaki doesn't offer 57001-1174 anymore but there is an alternate on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRANKSHAFT-JIG-REPLACES-KAWASAKI-TOOL-57001-1174-TO-HELP-YOU-INSTALL-CRANK-MOTOR-/200888811855
Before I dump $80 on this tool I'll likely only use a few times in my lifetime, do I absolutely need this tool or can I make something for cheap that does the same thing? I don't want to mess with the crank balance, so if I have to get it, I have to get it.
.
.
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Setting out bottom end bits on the workbench so I can go through what I have, and see what needs to be replaced. Obviously the broken gears in the pics have to go.
(http://i.imgur.com/UW7ySXY.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/VEXThVH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fWp5L4p.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3bFUTHc.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/HVagai4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zbKRF1m.jpg)
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Before I dump $80 on this tool I'll likely only use a few times in my lifetime, do I absolutely need this tool or can I make something for cheap that does the same thing?
No, you do not need that tool. I don't like the idea of pressing on the crank to assemble the bottom end. That tool only acts as a crank spacer to keep the flywheels parallel while you press the cases onto the crank. I put my crank in the freezer and my cases in the oven. Then I use some threaded plumbing fittings from the hardware store to pull the crank into the cases if it needs some additional tweaking. Use 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" black iron couplings and 3/4 reducer. Use the fittings as a spacer between the crank's ends and the case, use washers between spacers and nut on the crank's primary side or bolt on the ignition side. When you tighten the nut or bolt onto the crank it draws it into the case without putting stress on the crank pin. The plumbing parts and big washers cost me about $6-7 at Ace and I have used them on KXs, YZs, and CR cranks with no problems
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And... Awesome job on the restoration! That is a great bike and its nice to see the care and quality that you are putting into the project. What do you plan on doing with it when you are done?
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Before I dump $80 on this tool I'll likely only use a few times in my lifetime, do I absolutely need this tool or can I make something for cheap that does the same thing? I don't want to mess with the crank balance, so if I have to get it, I have to get it.
I didn't use any special tools either when I closed my cases on my 87 KX250.
I used a barbecue to heat my cases to about 170 deg, and also froze the crank.
Once the case heated I quickly got the crank and dropped it in. I had to use a piece of 2x4 to tap the crank in because the coldness of the crank hitting the heated case will sometimes stop it from sliding in.
Then, I quickly applied yamabond to the case, got the other half of the case and installed it.....you have to work quickly, but it can be done. Just have everything ready and planned and make a dry run first.
With heat and freezing parts, you can put or removed just about every bearing in the motor without buying special tools.
dinky,
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When you tighten the nut or bolt onto the crank it draws it into the case without putting stress on the crank pin. The plumbing parts and big washers cost me about $6-7 at Ace
Just the workaround I was hoping for.
And... Awesome job on the restoration! That is a great bike and its nice to see the care and quality that you are putting into the project. What do you plan on doing with it when you are done?
Thanks! I will have well over two grand in it by the time its done, maybe closer to 2500 after tires, bars, ect. I am not going to finish the wheels at this time - had them soda blasted clean but will leave the wheelsets to the next owner. Hope they remain silver per stock.
My hope is to sell it to someone who will put it away and not ride it much if at all. Parts are extremely scarce for this machine. Would love to see it in a museum eventually. It won't be museum ready when I'm done but close.
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My hope is to sell it to someone who will put it away and not ride it much if at all.
I would have a hard time parting with it if I had done all that work. I wouldn't be able to keep from riding it either! That is half the fun for me, the building is just the prelude to the riding. Love the character of 80s KXs.
Looking forward to finishing my 85 500 this winter and plan to rebuild my 88 250 sometime next year. Then I might be done for awhile. Well, unless a 79 125 turns up... :-D
Good luck with finding your 125 a good home.
Please keep posting till it's done, this is a great thread!
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Rest assured this bike will be ridden a little if/when I finish with it. :-D
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I've ordered the replacements but am curious to see what others think. How important is it to replace the shaft snap-rings when disassembling?
(http://i.imgur.com/Bxdbcbm.jpg)
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How important is it to replace the shaft snap-rings when disassembling?
look at it this way...how are ya gonna feel when you take it for that 1st good ride and it starts jumping outa gears on that 1st good ride...then it's tear the whole thing down again and start from scratch just to replace a $2 snap ring that broke.
For the "pocket change" they cost...replace EVERY one, not just the tranny ones either...all of them.
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When I bought a donor bike for my SM project, I bought one that 3rd gear was bad in.
When I tore the engine down this is what I found;
(http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu165/oemcycle/10-25-12/9.jpg)
As it turns out, all the gears including 3rd were good (Yes, even the dogs).
Lesson learned.... if you are splitting the cases, replace the snap rings...
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Even on a shaft I'm not disassembling? Isn't there more stress put on them during installation than simply letting them remain in place?
What size tip are you using on your pliers?
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replace them regardless....it's extremely cheap insurance getting new ones, rather than rolling the dice with old ones....unless of course you don't mind yanking out the motor again and starting all over.
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What size tips are needed for these snap rings/circlips? I had a devil of a time getting these off.. ending up mangling a few of them. The snap ring ends kept popping off the tips. I tried a smaller diameter pair and those bent.
(http://i.imgur.com/seKrvW8.jpg)
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First two OEM bearings installed in the left side crank case.
Still waiting for the tig guy to finish welding the right side case. Hope to get that next week.
(http://i.imgur.com/TXoELDc.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/qmOYpyu.jpg)
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Frame looks great!
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What size tips are needed for these snap rings/circlips? I had a devil of a time getting these off.. ending up mangling a few of them. The snap ring ends kept popping off the tips. I tried a smaller diameter pair and those bent.
Sorry buddy... no idea what size I used... I destroyed some smaller tips and my bigger tips were too big so I ground some big tips till they fit to perfection.
Your chassis is looking great!
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(http://i.imgur.com/wkVHH6E.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OlIW8dN.jpg)
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Makes me want to pull mine apart and start over :roll:
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Help!
I lapped case halves tonight using the bolt method. They are tight now, used to have some light shine through, now virtually none.
I did spot this troubling defect:
(http://i.imgur.com/pka1iLb.jpg)
This little scratch catches on my fingernail. Will Yamabond seal it up, or do I have a problem on my hands?
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Yamabond might do it but I like to fill them first with JB Weld.
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=411 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=411)
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I was thinking of that - thanks!
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No, you do not need that tool. I don't like the idea of pressing on the crank to assemble the bottom end. That tool only acts as a crank spacer to keep the flywheels parallel while you press the cases onto the crank. I put my crank in the freezer and my cases in the oven. Then I use some threaded plumbing fittings from the hardware store to pull the crank into the cases if it needs some additional tweaking. Use 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" black iron couplings and 3/4 reducer. Use the fittings as a spacer between the crank's ends and the case, use washers between spacers and nut on the crank's primary side or bolt on the ignition side. When you tighten the nut or bolt onto the crank it draws it into the case without putting stress on the crank pin. The plumbing parts and big washers cost me about $6-7 at Ace and I have used them on KXs, YZs, and CR cranks with no problems
MJ, what length pipe did you get for this job, or did the couplings and reducer have the right length by themselves?
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Mini update (sorry no pics):
Got my brake pedal installed. Gently sanded off some of the powder coat, got a snug fit, then applied some moly grease to the pivot. No wobble - all set.
On the engine side of things I have both crank bearings installed in the cases, and am holding off on a couple smaller bearings from Kaw before I assemble. Hope motojason will follow up to my question above. Or I'll figure it out.
Debating whether to get a new airbox and boot.. what I have isn't perfect, but that's another $160 in parts that I probably won't recoup.
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No pics?
Didn't happen :-D
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yeah u should have just taken a random pic of anything I like pics :-P
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No, it's hilarious... :lol:
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As promised :-D
(http://i.imgur.com/0d6eWpO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/I5z8EZe.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/FTUWl7u.jpg)
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It's so purdy it's gonna be a shame to cover it up with plastics.
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Well at least there will be OEM graphics over the plastic and no random Monster stickers. People bitch about this era KX being ugly but I don't think so.
Sorely tempted to run yellow backgrounds even though they were only on 500s. The yellow against the blue & green just looks amazing.
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Too bad you weren't a bit closer...
I'd like to vapor blast all your external engine parts.... That would look sweet!
I've been randomly blasting parts I sell on eBay after they are sold, so the people are shocked when they get a part that looks like new.
I keep getting asked what I use to clean the parts with.
I send them this pic :lol:
(http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2642)
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Yeah I wish we were closer I'd take you up on that. I've scotch brighted the cases as best I can but they are still dingy compared to the cylinder & head which were bead blasted by the plating company.
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Need some advice/input.
How close should the crank half come to the case? I'm using the puller motojason suggested above. Will the crank half bump up against something before it touches the case?
(http://i.imgur.com/bmzs2lh.jpg)
Crank is rotating freely as it sits:
(http://i.imgur.com/2xHSnzA.jpg)
motojason's puller (well not his, but one like it :D )
(http://i.imgur.com/JdC0bV4.jpg)
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Clymer said to pull it in until it bumps up against the bearing - did that and it spins freely.
Checking out the shift drum & forks:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=le7_fOPx9wc
Cleaned off the case half surfaces of dirt/oil..
Think I am almost ready to button the cases together!
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Ready set go
(http://i.imgur.com/in46WTM.jpg)
Yamabond
(http://i.imgur.com/KA3S31G.jpg)
Together again, at last...
(http://i.imgur.com/HoDfRoK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LkPCqOm.jpg)
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Got some new brake lines shipped in...
(http://i.imgur.com/WrignFq.jpg)
Can't afford new wheelsets so I spent a little time fine sanding the oxidation & rust from the stockers....
(http://i.imgur.com/7xxTRL7.jpg)
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Awesome she will be going braaap in no time :-D
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Need some advice/input.
How close should the crank half come to the case? I'm using the puller motojason suggested above. Will the crank half bump up against something before it touches the case?
I use the heat freeze method and let the crank drop in all the way till it stops.
It should spin freely excluding the resistance of the seals.
Interesting tool... Looks like stuff I have made :-D
For rusty or corroded spokes I use a stainless steel wire wheel on my Dremel tool or blue Scotch Brite.
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Do you normally put seals in before or after?
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On a K5 they go in first.
The trick is to not get the cases too hot.
I usually use 265-275 degrees.
Any hotter and you start risking seal failure or hotter yet and you get over expansion of the bearing causing it to lock up.
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Both seals on my 125 look like they go in from the outside. That's what the parts diagram shows too.
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Yep. Your lucky...
If you do another, consider the heat freeze method as you will eliminate axial load on your bearings.
Remember, main crank bearings can take a lot of radial load but not so much axial.
Plus, it's really cool when your crank drops in with little to no resistance.
Here's how I did mine..
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=661 (http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=661)
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I am getting ready to build my put my KX 500 engine back together and really appreciate the How to's on this forum......Does the heat cause any problems with the yamabond being applied onto hot cases. I am stressed out with the time constraints with applying gasket sealer to both case halves before the crank warms up and i end up with a left case half way on
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Working temp on Yamabond is up to 302 degrees Fahrenheit
Stay below that and your good.
Be sure to stay above -40 Fahrenheit.
You catch that Roost :lol:
And you have some time before the crank warms up.
Just don't diddle dally around.
I do a test fit without the crank to make sure everything goes together smoothly the first time.
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Got some new clutch plates...
(http://i.imgur.com/ASRmFbB.jpg)
Looks like I need a new basket too. Luckily I found a NOS Matika basket in the UK, it's in route.
(http://i.imgur.com/2HjSqDm.jpg)
In happier news, I found the elusive RH power valve, NOS:
(http://i.imgur.com/Dni7Yv1.jpg)
Shiny happy parts
(http://i.imgur.com/XHDBvrQ.jpg)
I opted out on the Lucus assembly lube and instead went with premix (Klotz R-50)
(http://i.imgur.com/S01TTPv.jpg)
Dry run of powervalve assembly
(http://i.imgur.com/OQQXBLM.jpg)
Everything lined up
(http://i.imgur.com/b3CCDjv.jpg)
An almost brand new top end:
(http://i.imgur.com/hpwIub1.jpg)
Holding off on an o-ring for the main exhaust bushing, then I can oil up and assemble for good.
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Looking spiffy 8-)
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Got some new brake lines shipped in...
(http://i.imgur.com/WrignFq.jpg)
Can you tell me where you got the brakes lines from?
And if they were expensive?
dinky,
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Can you tell me where you got the brakes lines from?
And if they were expensive?
dinky,
$109 + shipping for a set of Front and Rear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121007001828?item=121007001828
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Thanks.....
dinky,
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Top end finished. New old stock power valves operate smooth as silk. Need to put the studs in, and it'll be ready to bolt on.
(http://i.imgur.com/KYOjb9l.jpg)
Also got my Mitaka clutch basket in from the UK. Wish I could find a Mitaka clutch hub to match, but I'll try and track down a NOS hub next. One in the bike is shot (grooves).
(http://i.imgur.com/4WKv0aS.jpg)
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We should be getting a ride report soon :-D
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Also got my Mitaka clutch basket in from the UK.
That basket is sweet!
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I picked up a Mitaka basket for my 250. How do they hold up?
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Anyone post here from England? I needs a part, but the seller isn't shipping direct to the states. Please PM me.
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Thought I would put the front wheel and brake on tonight
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/01/30/78699/s1200_20150130_222258.jpg)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/01/30/78700/s1200_20150130_222350.jpg)
Trouble with the DRZ400S brake caliper I got as an upgrade. The DRZ's banjo slot is on the bottom/back of the front brake assembly. OEM slot was on the other side. Can't get this to lineup.
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/01/30/78701/s1200_20150130_222506.jpg)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/01/30/78702/s1200_20150130_222440.jpg)
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Got a little more work done today.
New rear brake reservoir, ready to bleed once I have the wheel installed.
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78882/s1200_20150201_000541.jpg)
First coat of high heat paint on the expansion chamber
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78883/s1200_20150201_160320.jpg)
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Taking apart the OEM clutch basket
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78884/s1200_20150201_162230.jpg)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78885/s1200_20150201_162942.jpg)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78887/s1200_20150201_164604.jpg)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78889/s1200_20150201_164634.jpg)
Out with the old, in with the new
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78890/s1200_20150201_165720.jpg)
These rubber bumpers were a pain to install on the new Mitika hub
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78891/s1200_20150201_170208.jpg)
So was the gear. I used C clamps to help pull it down over the dampers
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78892/s1200_20150201_171823.jpg)
Ready to assemble the clutch pack including a NOS clutch hub (one with the bike had grooves)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78893/s1200_20150201_173822.jpg)
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Clutch pack installed except for one small detail...
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78894/s1200_20150201_180304.jpg)
I'm missing one of the clutch spring seat/washers. The spring holder is AL and I don't want to run the springs right against that.
Where do I find one of these little things? Kaw didn't sell them separate.
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78895/s1200_20150201_181303.jpg)
(http://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2015/02/01/78896/s1200_20150201_181329.jpg)
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something doesnt look right My manual doesnt seven show those washers I no that mine doesnt have them :|
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b501/ben_brown5/Screenshot_96_zps7340f9df.png)
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Yeah the more I looked at the parts fiche the more I realized these washers were "home made" by previous owner. When I pried them off, well.. they were held in place by orange RTV. In the trash they went.
Had to order some new clutch spring bolts and a $10 clutch hub nut, so it will be at least a week before I can continue putting bottom end together.
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Awesome at least you getting somewhere it will be making braap noises soon :-P
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Anyone here remember wrenching on these older KX125's?
Curious about torquing down the clutch spring bolts.. the manual calls for 82 inch pounds (about 7 ft lbs) of torque. The trouble I found in test fitting with some older bolts I had is that I don't reach this torque until the spring is completely compressed. I can scan the manual to show how the pieces fit together, but the image bens87braap posted above is pretty clear.
Am I missing something here?
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Mine was same fully compressed springs before i met the right torque I thought that was strange and Im missing some adjustment in the clutch but I think its the cable. I just figured I would want the springs tight on Install as the clutch isnt pulled in? Someone correct me if im wrong
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2004 RM125 master cylinder fitted to my KX. This generation RM brakes were superb.
(http://i.imgur.com/vSAcDt7.jpg)
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Clutch cover isn't wanting to sit down against the crankcase. Traced it back to the shift shaft, which seems like it is sticking out a couple mm's too much. The spring & white plastic collar move in a bit -- the shaft itself is what's binding the cover up.
Anyone want to hazard a guess why?
(http://i.imgur.com/XnWga3a.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0yCcbBc.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XvKdkcM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Xp82V9t.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/GILx4aq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aAHnEJj.jpg)
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ouch that sux someone will have an idea :| are you using the original shaft? Did you have to take much material off if u lapped that clutch case. :?
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ouch that sux someone will have an idea :| are you using the original shaft? Did you have to take much material off if u lapped that clutch case. :?
Took next to nothing off. Rubbed the case halves for only a few seconds, not for 30 minutes. Nothing bound up when putting the centercases together and the transmission works smoothly with the engine in a box and just manually rotating the crank & working through gears.
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That little washer you couldn't find? Found it! :lol:
I have no idea and have taken stuff like this apart, found nothing, put it back together and all is well with no explanation for it.
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I ordered a NOS shift shaft from CMSL (along with the spring and white plastic collar). The current shaft's splines are a little rough, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace.
When I get time I'll pull the clutch pack and see what I can see when I pull the old shift shaft out.
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Sigh of relief. The metal inner collar that goes on the shift shaft slipped out of place. Cases will close up nicely now.
(http://i.imgur.com/hbiaGDH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/CpPhOOx.jpg)
Glad I ordered a new shift shaft though.. this one is buggered to hell.
(http://i.imgur.com/w7dw37L.jpg)
Front brakes are bled and tight. Can't wait to see how they work with the steel braided line & RM125 master cylinder.
(http://i.imgur.com/N0oqrE3.jpg)
Rear wheel ready to be installed next:
(http://i.imgur.com/dpYbXFJ.jpg)
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Glad to see you sorted out the shift shaft.
The newer style master cylinders used a larger diameter plunger of 11mm.
They do provide a bit more braking with less finger pull.
I've even thought about making a 13mm plunger just for kicks.....
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If you want more braking you need to do the opposite on the master cyl, go smaller or alternatively go bigger on the caliper or slave cyl pistons, works the same as sprocket ratios, hydraulic pressure ratio.
The smaller the actuating piston(brake lever) is with relation to the reacting piston(caliper or clutch), gives you more power on the reacting piston with less effort on the actuating piston, but less travel on the reacting piston & more on the activating piston, but seeing as a disc brake caliper only has to travel a fraction it does not matter so much & the gains on braking force with less hand effort are a big plus.
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Ah... your right.... after I stopped and thought about it for about 2 seconds... I just kept thinking about the newer brakes having a larger master piston diameter.... but they also have a larger brake rotor diameter which would help offset the larger master piston diameter...
I also did some looking at caliper pistons and didn't find any with DLC.
Seems to me that slicker is better there.
A lot of poor performing brakes we find is the caliper seals and pistons being gummed up.
Disassemble, clean, reassemble, and bleed, works wonders.
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glad to hear u got it sorted out
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Ah... your right.... after I stopped and thought about it for about 2 seconds... I just kept thinking about the newer brakes having a larger master piston diameter.... but they also have a larger brake rotor diameter which would help offset the larger master piston diameter...
I also did some looking at caliper pistons and didn't find any with DLC.
Seems to me that slicker is better there.
A lot of poor performing brakes we find is the caliper seals and pistons being gummed up.
Disassemble, clean, reassemble, and bleed, works wonders.
I half expect to rebuild both front and rear calipers, and should probably do that anyway. Is there a decent writeup on oem-cycle or youtube?
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Rear wheel installed and brake bled. Hub is a little dirty still.. not too worried, not putting $500+ more dollars in the toilet on new rims/hubs. Maybe the next owner can get some black ones or something. :-P
(http://i.imgur.com/H4Rdcjz.jpg)
Bike as it sits on Feb 11. Airbox next, then maybe rear fender & silencer.
(http://i.imgur.com/3VqkX5j.jpg)
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I half expect to rebuild both front and rear calipers, and should probably do that anyway. Is there a decent writeup on oem-cycle or youtube?
I should do a write up but I'm sure there is one on youtube..
If you can't find one let me know and I will write up a quickie rebuild..
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Both front & rear feel tight tonight (vacuum bled) so we'll see how they do once the pads wear in a bit.
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Let me know...
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Been too cold to work on dirt scooters but I managed to get the airbox in tonight. Couldn't find the right filter cage so one was ordered from Kawasaki. Wanted to get a new throttle housing assembly but I have to watch my budget.
(http://i.imgur.com/BNOTX3h.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NTe7Z7V.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/z3AVgMQ.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/L9gLEmM.jpg)
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WOW amazing keep it up
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+1 looks better than it did on the showroom floor in '89
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It is looking good.
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+1 looks better than it did on the showroom floor in '89
Nice!!!
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Gonna need to find a straighter subframe, it's causing the seat to not line up right.
(http://i.imgur.com/hyBZsbx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/F4S7RCu.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZqMn4ZV.jpg)
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How much drag should I expect to feel on a new motor? There's a little resistance turning the crank over with the connecting rod (manually with my fingers). Is that normal?
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Back on track after getting the crank centered.
New question! The shop manual says to line the mark on the timing plate up with the mark on the case. There are *three* timing marks on the backing plate. I have it in the middle for now.
Which do I line up to?
(http://i.imgur.com/skCuoDn.jpg)
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The middle is what you want (stock)... The other are advance & retard timing marks.
Keep the pics coming, enjoy watching your progress!
DoldGuy
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Thanks, went with the middle position.
Here's the bottom end just about ready to go in the frame:
(http://i.imgur.com/9JEkdOW.jpg)
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Spiffy 8-)
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Mine after rebuild didnt run so good it was on the middle mark I had to advance it moved all the way to the right mark says in book the left mark is for woods ridding low down power but maybe my weather conditions and elevation in Australia didnt like anything but full advanced now she screams.
:-D
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A sight I haven't seen in almost a year:
(http://i.imgur.com/jkxSMvW.jpg)
There it is!
(http://i.imgur.com/pA6dyb2.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LNao5bS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7kl5VDw.jpg)
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Dec 2013
(http://i.imgur.com/efoANgb.jpg)
March 2015
(http://i.imgur.com/F6hXnad.jpg)
Forgot to order a wrist pin bearing, so here comes another 1-2 week delay while Partzilla ships from Kawasaki's Atlanta warehouse to Albany GA then back to my shop in Atlanta.
(http://i.imgur.com/D7BPQst.jpg)
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I know that has to be VERY satisfying! Keep the pics coming.
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You know.... That engine looks so nice.... I bet a Stainless steel bolt kit would make it look even better 8-)
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Someone packed the wrong ring set with this piston kit. Should be 2205CD (two rings) vs the single ring in 2205CS.
Nothing is easy with this project.
(http://i.imgur.com/6ZwcGPA.jpg)
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Got the rings in, then discovered PO stripped fifth head bolt threads. Ordered 8mm helicoil & a 21/64 bit. Got that fixed up tonight and the cylinder & head are on the bike finally.
(http://i.imgur.com/Hkxzx7D.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eMRmuCF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/icVrYlO.jpg)
Why did Kawasaki use one bolt and four studs?
(http://i.imgur.com/IZ7srWp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jXum4h3.jpg)
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Cleaned up the OEM silencer core and added fresh packing.
(http://i.imgur.com/MCvrVtt.jpg)
Testing fitment of new Boyesen RAD valve. I only bought this because the stock manifold was badly cracked and Kawasaki doesn't sell it anymore. A company supposedly makes reproduction manifolds but I didn't want to take a gamble on $100. Got this RAD valve direct from Boyesen on clearance for $98.
(http://i.imgur.com/3d7brNt.jpg)
Carb rebuilt with new slide and standard rebuild components. Downsized the main from 155 to 150 per Boyesen instructions. Clip now in the middle.
(http://i.imgur.com/gc9s1aL.jpg)
Also picked up a can of VP110 gas yesterday, in case I happen to need it in the near future...
(http://i.imgur.com/izts5kj.jpg)
I cannot wait to smell this.
(http://i.imgur.com/5xUjeKR.jpg)
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Carb installed
(http://i.imgur.com/eSqmXHk.jpg)
And powervalve linkage & cover installed
(http://i.imgur.com/Irj7b7O.jpg)
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Okies getting close. Waiting on a few small doo-dads to come in (clutch lever, wiring/cable bands, and a new fuel tap).
(http://i.imgur.com/yxya4yJ.jpg)
Fitted the front # plate. Loved the yellow against the green & blue even though it was for the open classers.
(http://i.imgur.com/vLtl4ru.jpg)
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Just curious what your going to do with her once you finish?
Keep or sell?
I have an 87 KX 250 that I got carried away and replaced practically ever part....not cheap.
I plan to keep mine, but I'm concerned about part availability.
dinky,
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Once I know the bugs are worked out I'll ride for a season then try to sell. I coulda bought a newish YZ125 for the same amount I wound up sinking into this one.
I had to to it though.. had to get it out of my system. My first mx'er was a kx125 (86 model), couldn't find one of those but always coveted the 1989 models so there you go!
I saw some footage of someone riding a 89 kx125 at Budds last week. May try to get some stiffer fork springs.. even sitting on it in the shop it feels set up like a trail bike, but most of the bikes came that way back then.
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Once I know the bugs are worked out I'll ride for a season then try to sell. I coulda bought a newish YZ125 for the same amount I wound up sinking into this one.
I had to to it though.. had to get it out of my system. My first mx'er was a kx125 (86 model), couldn't find one of those but always coveted the 1989 models so there you go!
I saw some footage of someone riding a 89 kx125 at Budds last week. May try to get some stiffer fork springs.. even sitting on it in the shop it feels set up like a trail bike, but most of the bikes came that way back then.
Yeah, just curious...Some people restore and ride them...others just fix what needs to fixed and ride.
I myself like the "everything new look" even though it might not need it...but that's just me.
dinky,
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Not long now. Ordered a new throttle housing assembly tonight, so I doubt it will be here by the weekend. Fuel tap and other doodads should be here by Friday.
(http://i.imgur.com/27pmhVN.jpg)
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Beautiful
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Magnificent ! I got an '87 brand new in 1988. I still miss it.
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Holy crap this thing is sooo sloooooow. My last 125 was a 2001 Suzuki RM. It had a mean hit and would easily wheely in any gear. This 89 KX is very mellow. Almost to the point of being boring.. Then again, that's exactly what the mags wrote about it in 1989 so no big surprise there! Kinda thought/hoped the RAD valve would give it a little more bite.
Short video forthcoming..
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea5DTy3JC6o
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Don't get her too dirty now :-D
dinky,
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I had the plug cap half removed yesterday.. went for another short ride a little while ago and the bike runs a little better now. Still not as fast as a new YZ125 but not horrible now. :)
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What's up with my jetting? Mix is 32;1 with one step lower on pilot and main (rad valve). Bike smokes badly and I already have dampness forming around the end of the silencer. It has a bog off idle.. wants to load up if I don't rev it out.
Power is mediocre as I mentioned.. ugh. a little excitement around mid range and annoyingly flat on top. Still have the stock pipe installed so I could try the kinda beat-up PC pipe I have.
First things first though.. what's up with the jetting? I don't want to burn the bearings up but I also don't want to ride a lime green mosquito fogger. :(
Youtube from yesterday.. I just uploaded so give it a couple minutes to finish processing
http://youtu.be/qQGmPNThn3k
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Putting this here since it was hard to come up with.. I can't remember the main jet I have.. it's either 145 or 147.5. Pretty sure I went with stock pilot and clip in 3rd spot. Carb has a brand new $120 slide. WIll pull bowl this week to confirm main jet size, but it seems like the bog/loading issue is either clip or pilot maybe. Then again maybe my main is still off due to the smoke and spooge.
1989 Kawaski KX125 jetting specifications:
OEM jetting
Main 155
Pilot 52
Needle R2067N
Clip 4th
Air Screw 1.5 turns out
Boyesen RAD jetting
Main 1-3 sizes smaller
Pilot STD
Needle STD
Clip 3rd
Air Screw 1.5 turns out
Pro circuit recommended jetting
Main Jet 155
Pilot Jet 58
Needle STD
Clip 3rd
Air Screw 1.5 out
FMF recommended jetting
Main Jet 148
Pilot Jet 62
Needle STOCK
Clip Position 3RD
Air Screw 1.5 out
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i will check my jetting on my 85 125 it rips with stock pipe after rebuild 1st 2nd 3rd gear lifts if u dont sit forward
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I owned an 85 and 86 kx125.. 89 is a different motor and carb so jetting will be a little different.
Googling around this morning and it looks like this is the Jetting Bible:
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/carb-tuning-canadian-daves-kdx.184671/
this is a little info in spooge:
http://motocrosshideout.com/2-stroke-dirt-bike-pre-mix-101/
I'm sure MXA did a full write up on jetting/spooge recently but I can't find the issue.
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Long story short, I had some bad gas. I went ahead and moved my clip up to the 4th spot and kept the 150 main and 52 pilot. Also threw on an old Pro Circuit pipe.. bike barks now. Hope to get some better video soon.
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Got the new clutch perch cover installed today:
(http://i.imgur.com/yzRpb9r.jpg)
and took apart the front caliper to find that the lower piston area was filled with gunk. Dropped it in the ultrasonic, cleaned it up with brake cleaner then rebuilt using a Motion Pro kit:
(http://i.imgur.com/b8HgQQH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/82mLlAO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/oBDYzBR.jpg)
finally received my two new brake rotors. The ones on the bike were badly worn and slightly warped:
(http://i.imgur.com/bMwgUmp.jpg)
new front rotor:
(http://i.imgur.com/ECIgssA.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/LUyeIQG.jpg)
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Nice job on the brakes.
Next to the suspension bearings it's one of the most ignored areas on bikes.... and yet.... they are so critical :mrgreen:
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Yes, and the PO's of this bike did absolutely nothing with the brakes. Discs I picked up on Ebay last month (2 for $89) worked perfectly.
I entered this bike in an Evo race yesterday at Monster Mountain, here's some helmet cam:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_igIfXhy5M
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That looked fun....
Your bike sure sounds like it is running good.
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I like the show of respect that the yz250 guy gave you.
He had more power but had some issues with handling :lol:
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issues with handling..... He was all over the shop lol Great race