welding crankcases

[dave916]

Any tips and settings for tig welding my cases, only  done a couple of hours on the  tig , never done alloy so any help on setting would be appreciated
got 1mm 4240a filler rod , 1+1.6mm  white tip tungsten 
main question would be the setting amps and Cleaning setting
and do i need to change the torch to the +polarity on AC setting
My welder does not have a foot pedal ,herae are a few pics THANKS
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/P1040120.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/cr500-af/tig1.jpg

[royceymon@hotmail.co.uk]

make sure all the seals around area are out the ali gets super hot , use clutch brake cleaner to clean out the crack or youl get shed loads of porosity,casings are crap to weld done my mates yz125 ..it was a struggle, i personaly would set up on a scrap piece of ali first ,ill try and find out some settings 2moz if thats any help ( i work for ozweld international).
dont forget to drill the end of the crack, stops it creeping...if its possible

[dave916]

Anyone with a few base settings?

[KevinTwoStk]

You'll need to use the AC setting.

If you use brake cleaner, make sure it's NON-chlorinated. Chlorinated brake cleaner, when heated up and exposed to argon gas, can form a poisonous gas called phosgene. There was a big to-do on the Web a couple of years ago when a guy from Brew Racing Frames used chlorinated brake cleaner by accident and then began TIG welding on what he'd just cleaned. He got a small puff of the phosgene and it messed him up badly--his body began shutting down.

Here's a link to the story below:

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

I would guess around 80-100 amps. Is there a way to get a foot pedal on your machine? If so I would make the investment because it will make a world of difference--meaning it will be much easier to control the weld and thereby produce better results.

Aluminum dissipates heat very quickly, so you'll have to put a lot of heat into it to get the weld puddle started. The problem is that the heat can quickly build up to the point that it melts a hole in your cases if you can't control the heat input.

[dave916]

You'll need to use the AC setting.

If you use brake cleaner, make sure it's NON-chlorinated. Chlorinated brake cleaner, when heated up and exposed to argon gas, can form a poisonous gas called phosgene. There was a big to-do on the Web a couple of years ago when a guy from Brew Racing Frames used chlorinated brake cleaner by accident and then began TIG welding on what he'd just cleaned. He got a small puff of the phosgene and it messed him up badly--his body began shutting down.

Here's a link to the story below:

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm


I would guess around 80-100 amps. Is there a way to get a foot pedal on your machine? If so I would make the investment because it will make a world of difference--meaning it will be much easier to control the weld and thereby produce better results.

Aluminum dissipates heat very quickly, so you'll have to put a lot of heat into it to get the weld puddle started. The problem is that the heat can quickly build up to the point that it melts a hole in your cases if you can't control the heat input.

thanks i will wait till i get a pedal or maybe just pay someone as i dont want yo ruin a set of cases, been a bit windy here for outdoor tig welding, cheers