Weak front brakes

[Motorrad]

Brake cleaner...

then afer that..

Surface them on some sand paper (150 200 grit should do the trick) 
 
(Put paper on flat surface (bench, garage floor etc), rub pad on paper)

[elmo]

Dude, i didn't see anything in the thread about your disc! Does it have a lip on it? Run your finger and thumb from the mounts to the edge of the disc. If it feels fatter toward the edge of the disc then that's your issue. Was with mine, disc was shot!

[1989kawasaki]

just to wake this thread back up.....

yes the rotor has a lip on the end and it feels very thin in the middle. so i am going to have to order a new rotor soon.
i found a new one on ebay for $40.

when i was at the track on saturday... when i pull the lever when the bike is stopped it feels O.K , and when on the track , i pull the lever it goes right to the grip and the lever pulsates and the brakes actually feel quite dangerous. why does the lever pulsate? is it because of the rotor?

[DoldGuy]

Bent/Warped rotor causes the pulsating. When you put on your new rotor/disc install new pads too (some HH+ pads) & bleed the brakes Very Good. You will be able to do a 2 finger stoppie.

[1989kawasaki]

Bent/Warped rotor causes the pulsating. When you put on your new rotor/disc install new pads too (some HH+ pads) & bleed the brakes Very Good. You will be able to do a 2 finger stoppie.

the pads are brand new, just used for the day on saturday,, are they still usable?

[1989kawasaki]

just took the front wheel off.. removed 2 rotor bolts ok but the other 2 are rounded out. any ideas on how to get them out?

the front wheel is going to be off until i get : a new rotor, wheel bearings, and have it spoked.

[sandblaster]

Rotor bolts are typically held in with thread locker.
Most of the time you need to heat the bolt enough to burn out the thread locker or get it to release.
If it is an Allen Head you will probably have to drill them down the middle and use a Easyout.

[1989kawasaki]

what if i used a dremel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt to fit a flat head screw driver in it? or not?

[1989kawasaki]

oh and by the way , a new TUSK rotor will cost $90 shipped, and they have perfect reviews to them "better then oem"
"improved braking power"  ...... so i will definatley go with the tusk.

[sandblaster]

The Dremel is a good option if you have a steady hand but you better heat the bolts up before you turn them....

[Friar-Tuck]

Here's another option!  http://store.edelbrock.com/kawasaki.aspx
   Tuck\o/

[1989kawasaki]

it doesnt say its for an 89..

here is the tusk

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&vehicleId=433&webTypeId=30&navTitle=Brakes&webCatId=15&stockId=46034&prodFamilyId=3135

[royceymon@hotmail.co.uk]

a trick i used before , drill small hole in bolt in centre just enough to tap in an allen key  nice and tight  not too tight or you risk breaking a piece of hub off but just enough to bite ( not too big an allen key or risk jamming more ) ,heat outside hub around bolt area avoiding too much heat towards bearing seals etc
a solution similar to red locktite is used on the bolts , its melts under heat make sure you heat first then simply unsrew with the allen key dont leave too long or the bolt will expand with the hub .
are you using the correct dot brake fluid , is the brake hose old and expanding are the banjo bolts tight??
i did an enduro once ,had a stone come up and hit the banjo bolt just enough to loosen , lost the front brake totaly when i checked all it was , was a very slightly loose banjo!!

[1989kawasaki]

a trick i used before , drill small hole in bolt in centre just enough to tap in an allen key  nice and tight  not too tight or you risk breaking a piece of hub off but just enough to bite ( not too big an allen key or risk jamming more ) ,heat outside hub around bolt area avoiding too much heat towards bearing seals etc
a solution similar to red locktite is used on the bolts , its melts under heat make sure you heat first then simply unsrew with the allen key dont leave too long or the bolt will expand with the hub .
are you using the correct dot brake fluid , is the brake hose old and expanding are the banjo bolts tight??
i did an enduro once ,had a stone come up and hit the banjo bolt just enough to loosen , lost the front brake totaly when i checked all it was , was a very slightly loose banjo!!

ill just cut slots into the heads of the bolts with a dremel so i can fit a flat head screwdriver in the slot.
(i dont want to risk braking a piece off the hub)
yes i am using the right DOT 4 fluid . but the bottle had been opened before, but i will have a fresh new bottle of brake fluid when i get the new rotor.

yes the brake hose is old ,, but how do i know if it is expanding?

and the banjo bolts are tight. but i will double check later.

[royceymon@hotmail.co.uk]

if the brake hose is a genuine part from 1989 poss is mullered , if you checked all else , seals in master cylinder ok ,if fluid is not passing out past the pistons , prob hose!! try hel performance hoses , got them on my buell good quality! i take it you have flushed right through with new fluid , bleed nipple seat ok? not been overtightened? i would clean banjo areas and caliper  with brake cleaner  when dry , pump the brakes a few times check areas with dry tissue to see any weeps?? hope this helps