On the subject of engine work

[delphipro5]

WELL... I picked up the aluminum ignition cover from boysen to keep the water out of my flywheel housing that corroded the crap out of my flywheel before!
And come to find out it does NOT FIT over the steathy flywheel weight!! I would say I need another 3/16" of depth. With a few paint stirrers it seemed to not hit. Need to do some more testing to see how much thickness it would take not to rub at all.



So I am thinking about making a spacer out of 3/16" aluminum plate. I could just copy the boysen gasket that was given with the ign. cover on 3/16" plate cut it, drill it, clean it up nice and I would be able to use this cover with the weight on. But I would need to use 2 gaskets for it. That still would not get it to stick out as far as the plastic stockie! So it won't be getting in the way of the shifter.




You should see how nice the flywheel looks now! looks like new! 

[weymouth399]

Ok some may not belive this.
But I had a moisture problem under the mag cover a long time ago, on a brand new bike.
I replaced every thing there was to replace.
As I was washing it (something I did after every ride).
I noticed the kill button wire just sitting there, as a great big straw going all the way to my ignition. Pulled the cover and it was wet again.
Stuffed silicon up from inside, on all my new bikes since, with no water problem since either.

Bob W

[Polar-Bus]

Ok some may not belive this.
But I had a moisture problem under the mag cover a long time ago, on a brand new bike.
I replaced every thing there was to replace.
As I was washing it (something I did after every ride).
I noticed the kill button wire just sitting there, as a great big straw going all the way to my ignition. Pulled the cover and it was wet again.
Stuffed silicon up from inside, on all my new bikes since, with no water problem since either.

Bob W

The OEM plastic mag cover distorts when you crank the bolts  down. Don't bother with the OEM gasket, I use Permatex black RTV instead of a gasket. Problem solved.

[Polar-Bus]

WELL... I picked up the aluminum ignition cover from boysen to keep the water out of my flywheel housing that corroded the crap out of my flywheel before!
And come to find out it does NOT FIT over the steathy flywheel weight!! I would say I need another 3/16" of depth. With a few paint stirrers it seemed to not hit. Need to do some more testing to see how much thickness it would take not to rub at all.


So I am thinking about making a spacer out of 3/16" aluminum plate. I could just copy the boysen gasket that was given with the ign. cover on 3/16" plate cut it, drill it, clean it up nice and I would be able to use this cover with the weight on. But I would need to use 2 gaskets for it. That still would not get it to stick out as far as the plastic stockie! So it won't be getting in the way of the shifter.

You should see how nice the flywheel looks now! looks like new! 

I seem to remember somewhere that there is a company that already makes a mag spacer for the 500 I wish I could remember where I saw that spacer... 

[delphipro5]

Thanks guys! And definitly I will stuff the wire somewhere so the water can not trickle down the sheath when you wash it!! THATS a smart guy idea right there! good observation!

[delphipro5]

Ok some may not belive this.
But I had a moisture problem under the mag cover a long time ago, on a brand new bike.
I replaced every thing there was to replace.
As I was washing it (something I did after every ride).
I noticed the kill button wire just sitting there, as a great big straw going all the way to my ignition. Pulled the cover and it was wet again.
Stuffed silicon up from inside, on all my new bikes since, with no water problem since either.

Bob W

I belive you. +1

[delphipro5]

Got My Kips set up right I think. I took it apart to see if the guy that did the engine reset the arm for the new stop bolt. And he did not! So I think I have it now. I could not notice much of a difference, I don't know if it's all working right. The only way to be sure would be to do the whole engine myself, so that is what I will do next year. Here are a few pics, let me know what you think. 











I heard a little grinding when I was moving the shaft back and forth, is that normal?

[delphipro5]

Sorry bout all the pics. I hope that doesnt mess with the site.

[Motorrad]

can you describe the pics...

the one you shot of the Barrel valves..... is that closed or open on the "acuating rod"   

Cant tell if your fiddling with things or not in the shots. 

[delphipro5]

Let's see, the shot of the kips barrel I belive is at full open. I had the rod free to move at that point and just pulled it "out" till it stopped. When pushed "in" the ports were closed, and I could not see really what the kips bolt is doing. Is there a port you can not see on the oppisite side? I should have messed with it more but I didn't. If you had the stop bolt out and pushed the rod "in" would it just keep going till the c-clip hit the cylinder?(did not want to over rotate the barrels) The shots of my finger are one pulling it a bit and the other pushing on it.(both with lever nut tite, readjusted to new kips bolt) I was just hopeing someone could say it looks like it is in the correct position. I am fairly sure it is working correctly.
And it is a bit crunchy when you rotate the barrels! He may have not gotten all the s.blast grit out of it before final assem.) Actually, now that I look at the pic of the barrel I think I see some grit particles in there!
just gonna runna and see how she goes! I'm a bit of a Mainer... Or maniac as they calls us!

[kaw rider]

you just hope there no grit in that area, it will be in your motor after you start it. Also hopefully your sandblaster sealed off your exhaust pipe too when he blast it.

[Motorrad]

you just hope there no grit in that area, it will be in your motor after you start it. Also hopefully your sandblaster sealed off your exhaust pipe too when he blast it.

Yep seen lots of guys ruin 2 stroke motors from blasting the pipes..

[delphipro5]

I will look over it again inside the barrels and ports and make sure to get any grit I see OUT! As far as the oem pipe, I need to fix the crack in it. And then I will send it to a REAL coater to do a ceramicoat on it inside and out if possible. If he can't get it inside then I will ask him to flush out the inside somehow. If you flush it thouroghly will it be o.k.?

[kxpegger]

I will look over it again inside the barrels and ports and make sure to get any grit I see OUT! As far as the oem pipe, I need to fix the crack in it. And then I will send it to a REAL coater to do a ceramicoat on it inside and out if possible. If he can't get it inside then I will ask him to flush out the inside somehow. If you flush it thouroghly will it be o.k.?

I use 1/2" sharp edged landscaping rock and strong detergent. Put your favorite movie on and start shaking! Make sure you get all the rocks out when your done!