AARRrghh!
I'm Calling your parents and telling them to duct tape you on a work stool and only leave one hand free to work on the KX.
ONE THING AT A TIME If You Read this before you call, I want you to release the tension on the clutch.
You Wanna know why the wheel was turning while you tried to push start it.
I am gonna show you why it happened
I am gonna show you How to remedy it (well I already did but we are spinning our wheels here four posts later)
But we are only gonna do one thing at a time... if you want to know whats next.
We are gonna make sure your carb didn't fill your engine with fuel oil mix and figure out why that happened.
That's all you get to know now.
WHY your bike is in gear and you can push it rolling the rear tire.
The washer was missing between the clutch release button, and the thrust bearing.
I Fixed (or replaced) it.
When you hooked up your clutch it was adjusted to take up the slack (or space) the washer should have.
All you had to do was adjust your clutch freeplay. (Which is what we are going to do first.)
When you remove your cable the clutch arm moves quite freely, I polished it, and the corner of arm that cams over the release button.
What you have right now is a clutch that is always applied or Slipping.
It's a good thing the engine didn't start.
You would have fried the clutch! Well Like Mo-Rad Pointed out, the engine probably would have run away without that carb mounted properly, and then it would have been back to square one with a blown engine!
So Step by Step:
Get a crescent or adjustable wrench (or an open end large enough)
and open it to fit the clutch arm. Don't use Channel locks, pliers or vice grips, it digs into the clutch arm and leaves sharp edges. I filed the ones that were on there down, so no-one would get cut.
Apply pressure and remove the cable. (towards the little Perch that holds the adjuster)
WE have to start over.
Loosen the nuts on the clutch cable at the little perch and let all the slack out.
Unwind or put back all the slack available in your clutch lever at the perch.
Now you should be able to hook up your clutch cable.
We are gonna adjust out most of the freeplay at the cable near the clutch arm or the bottom end of the cable.
That way you can quickly adjust the lever if you need to later up top.
Check your Clymer for the amount of clutch freeplay and dial it in.
Lock the cable in at the bottom there are usually two nuts 10 or 12 mm.
Look it up in your CLYMER " how to adjust your clutch freeplay"
Read it follow it it should look something like this.
If there is any question what to do. Stop.
Are you guys talking about me having to open the clutch cover and fool around with stuff or just adjusting the handle and the two bolts on the clutch arm?
No Not even Close....
Help me out here guys:
What am I not getting across. I just want him to adjust the clutch freeplay.
Maybe someone else can fill in the blanks.
We will get to the other problems.
Later
T\o/
