KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!

[chris-mets]

I recently bought a 2000 KX60 and rode it wrong. It just died out and then later that day replaced the spark plug and it push started. 2 weeks later it didnt even push start. I opened the engine up and the cylinder head and piston were all chewed up with scrappy metal gouges. On the inside wall of the cylinder was a big gouge. The piston rings were shot too so I think it didnt have enough compression after 2 push starts in second gear. I purchased a wiseco piston kit with everything, a cylinder head, and a cylinder. I do not want to put these on yet because I am afraid some of the chewed up metal is in the engine and will shoot up into the cylinder and the same thing will happen. The connecting rod is also really shaky. It wobbles side to side. I took off the clutch cover and it looked good. Then I took off the crankcase and everything looked good. I don't want to fool around with any gears or take apart the inside of the engine because I am scared something will go wrong. I have no more money. I do not want to take chances. How am I going to clean out the engine. I am 13 and I just started into bikes a year ago. Please Help! Thanks.

[Purpletj]

Is the motor out of the Bike?

[Motorrad]

Where are you located.... If your anywhere near me..   Ill clear a spot on my bench for ya... and walk ya through it...   

(thats not a offer that happens very often) 


But to answer your questions..

The rod play side to side isnt much to be worried about (unless its EXCESSIVE)...   UP AND DOWN is what you need to worry about...

as far as flushing the cases.... its a judgement call...

is it due for crank seals? are crank seals the reason the piston and rings went?    or other things?

so on..

if everything in the bottom end is on the up and up, and only a SMALL ammount of alum went through them....   you can get away with flushing the lower end with gasoline several times, (or other various solvents)...     But once again.. this is a judgement call...

[chris-mets]

The motor is not out of the bike. I am located in Midland Park, NJ. I will check if the rod goes up and down without cranking it. I recently found 1 little peice of tiny metal on the crankshaft 2 circle things connected to the connecting rod. I was riding in second gear long andstupidly, then I went down to first and it died out. Tahnks for the replies!

[Coop]

Grasp the flywheel and try to move it in and out. Grasp the rod and check for up/down movement. If the flywheel moves, crank main bearings are bad. If the rod moves AT ALL up and down you need a crank rebuild or a new crank.

From the looks of that damage, it is very similar to what the KX60 looked like when I first bought it for my nephew. My suspicion is the  lower rod bearings went. These little 60's are VERY high strung engines.

It also looks like maybe it's running lean. What pre-mix ration are you running?

[chris-mets]

Coop. Thank you. The connecting rod shakes a lot side to side and a little bit up and down. I think I would just need to buy a connecting rod and bearings, right? The thing is can you guide me on how to get to the crankshaft so I can buy the rod kit and put it in? I am running very high 52:1 ratio in super gas. Should I worry about cleaning the engine out of all little metal pieces? I think the lower rod bearings were shot and that caused the piston to go a little higher and continuously hit the head and smush metal pieces to eachother. Thanks for the help.

[1989kawasaki]

Coop. Thank you. The connecting rod shakes a lot side to side and a little bit up and down. I think I would just need to buy a connecting rod and bearings, right? The thing is can you guide me on how to get to the crankshaft so I can buy the rod kit and put it in? I am running very high 52:1 ratio in super gas. Should I worry about cleaning the engine out of all little metal pieces? I think the lower rod bearings were shot and that caused the piston to go a little higher and continuously hit the head and smush metal pieces to eachother. Thanks for the help.

you would have to buy a rod kit, then you would have to split the cases then take the crank to a bike shop or machine shop to have them put the rod on because they use a press to get the rod out and when they press it back together then they have to true the crank. and for a motor that revs as high as a 60 does , you should be running a 32:1 mix. and you should thoroughly clean out the bottom end.

[chris-mets]

I just checked and the flywheel does no shake or even move a bit. But the rod shakes a lot side to side and  little up and down. How do I get the crank out? Is it those 3 phillips screws holding the flywheel on? Would I have to take the motor off the bike? What does trueing the crank mean? I am using this bike just to ride around and not race. Thanks.

[1989kawasaki]

I just checked and the flywheel does no shake or even move a bit. But the rod shakes a lot side to side and  little up and down. How do I get the crank out? Is it those 3 phillips screws holding the flywheel on? Would I have to take the motor off the bike? What does trueing the crank mean? I am using this bike just to ride around and not race. Thanks.

you must remove the motor from the bike then you have to disassemble the motor completely then you have to take a case splitter the split the case then you have to take a crank puller to remove the crank then you take the crank to a machine shop or a bike shop. if you dont true the crank (theres no way around it, you must) , it will feel like you are riding a jack hammer.
truing means that each half of the crank must be ''straight'' its hard to explain, maybe someone else will explain

[chris-mets]

Will it cost a lot for a machine shop to put the connecting rod and bearings on then true the crank? I am going to try to take the engine off the bike right now.

[1989kawasaki]

Will it cost a lot for a machine shop to put the connecting rod and bearings on then true the crank? I am going to try to take the engine off the bike right now.

when i had my crank rebuilt it costed $81 for the rod kit and i think it was like $100 +/- for labour , and you must buy crank main bearings too which is $43 through all balls. do you have the case splitter and crank puller? if not your best to have the bike shop do the whole thing which will be $$$. when i had my 250s engine overhauled by the shop which was replacing the tranny , rebuilding the crank and truing it and putting the top end together , so basically putting the motor together from bolts cost me around $600 and thats WITHOUT parts

[1989kawasaki]

also i might add, once you get everything back together with the crank rebuilt, and when its all good you will need the carb jetted for a 32:1 mix.  make sure you do it right the first time!

[chris-mets]

Yeah I'm 13 and so I am probably going to just take the crankshaft out myself and the only thing I am going to do maybe from a machine shop is take the rod off, put the new one on and true it. The crank bearings are good still...the flywheel is still..

[1989kawasaki]

Yeah I'm 13 and so I am probably going to just take the crankshaft out myself and the only thing I am going to do maybe from a machine shop is take the rod off, put the new one on and true it. The crank bearings are good still...the flywheel is still..

it doesnt matter if the crank bearings are good or not you must replace them along with the seals. if all that shrapnel went through the motor , then it must have passed through the bearings

[1989kawasaki]

make sure you get crank bearing and seals